Just a redundant check on my logic for my install

[The Mando]

2001 Jeep TJ

Doing a Currie Rockjock 4 inch lift (all control arms, shocks, springs, sye, oil pan and main seal, differential seals)

Got the back end done minus the upper control arms, need to reconnect the break line (it was in the way of the relocation break for the track bar)

My plan is to do the sye last now. I was going to do it today but now I'm thinking of ripping the front suspension out, dropping the oil pan, starter, and engine cradle to replace the rear main seal. Then after thats back together finish the suspension upfront, get the tires back on and then do the sye, differential gaskets, and reconnect the break line then do all the fluids and bleed the breaks.

Just bouncing it off you guys to see if there's any flaws in my thinking or logic. I'm just going at my pace, I was an aircraft mechanic in the Army for more than a decade but I'm pretty disabled so I'm pacing myself.

 

[afitzray97]

I can't tell from the pic but I gotta ask where you're putting the jack stands? If you don't have the upper control arms on the rear axle then please don't lift the rear by the axle since the axle can tilt without all arms connected, just use the lift and stands on the frame. You prob already know all this as a mechanic but in case others read this later I want to point that out.

I installed the same kit but I took it to a shop for the SYE. My understanding was that pulling the transfer case makes that job a lot easier and I figured that would take me longer than I wanted to deal with. But I think waiting on the SYE could be a good idea. If you get all your suspension work done you'll have more time for the new springs to settle/compress while you do the other work. Then hopefully you can dial in your SYE angles once and not need adjustments later. Also driveshaft length. I think mine settled at least an inch since I installed the lift and added a tire carrier.

And I really like those wheels! I looked for a while for something like the old 70's turbine wheels but never found anything with the right backspacing and bolt pattern.

 

[pagrey]

I really like to break the project up into segments that allow me to drive it in-between. When you do everything and then take it for a dive sometimes it can be difficult to pin down what went wrong. There isn't allot tied together between the RMS and the front suspension. Do it after you get everything ironed out. Do the brakes after you get everything else ironed out that way you aren't tracing funny noises from brake shields and vibes and leaks and all that stuff at once.

 

[06lj]

And I really like those wheels! I looked for a while for something like the old 70's turbine wheels but never found anything with the right backspacing and bolt pattern.

X2 on those wheels. I've had the exact same thoughts on the old turbines.

 

[AndyG]

Thanks for serving our country.

Work safe, good parts choices and expect to take some time to dial it in when done- pinion angle, toe, caster, and bumpstops and clearances, etc- good parts choices, good plan.

Use this forum, the best knowledge for what you are doing is right here.

 

[FarFire70]

Looking at that picture, I think you're done. Great rake for a Jeep! J/K.

I'm doing much the same (Currie lift, SYE, etc) as you but you're clearly moving faster than I am. My axles are still off on their own after a paint job waiting for me to get around to start re-connecting them to the TJ after some future frame painting and replacing the brake lines.

To your question, I think you're doing it right. Get the SL installed and then measure for the SYE. You can work on the brakes and axle fluids while you wait for the SYE to arrive. Get the Jeep to the full ride height (aka, finish the SL install) and then measure the SYE makes sense to me.

Thank you for your service! Good luck on the rest of the build!