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P man
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Grandpa used to do it...if you don't know, old timers used to water down the roof on their house when it was hot. Anyone think this really works? Explain the logic?
Grandpa used to do it...if you don't know, old timers used to water down the roof on their house when it was hot. Anyone think this really works? Explain the logic?
Grandpa used to do it...if you don't know, old timers used to water down the roof on their house when it was hot. Anyone think this really works? Explain the logic?
Evaporation of water cools the roof (just like sweat on skin), which in turn reduces the heat radiated into the attic from the bottom side of the roof decking, reduced attic temp means less heat conducted through the ceiling into the conditioned space.
These days though, water is so expensive and places that need AC more often have it, so there's probably not much call for it now.
How much does humidity affect cooling the roof? It sounds like humidity is high there.
if the roof, either by design or materials of construction, were able to hold onto the water for a long enough time to allow for evaporation, the reduction in energy via latent heat transfer (converting liquid to vapor) would be effective.
As @InOmaha said, putting hot air out of your attic will make significant improvements through the use of a simple attic fan (I'm about to install one in mine, even though we have A/C).
in the same temperature, it would be much more effective in low humidity. same reason there's a lot more houses with swamp coolers in the southwest than in the southeast.
For example yesterday, you would have gotten slightly more cooling effect from water evaporation in Phoenix than you would have in Baltimore, in spite of Phoenix being 20 degrees warmer.
Thanks for all the replies..im in the PNW and we have a few hot days here and there. We have central ac but yesterday was nearly 100 degrees and we were struggling to keep inside Temps below 75.
I did clean out the evaporator coils last night. I will look into the attic fan today.
at least around here, 75 is usually what they use as the interior temp to size the unit on.
The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) publishes a table of weather patterns for basically every major city that looks like this:
View attachment 339454
A typical house AC is going to be designed for the DB numbers under the 0.4, 1%, or 2% column, which is the temperature only .4, 1, or 2% of hours exceed. If you look toward the bottom of the table you can see the annual, 5, 10, 20, and 50 year extremes. No one sizes units based on the extremes because you'd waste money on the initial purchase of an oversized unit, and that oversized unit would run less efficiently (cycling on for just a few minutes is not enough time for the system to stabilize) for the 99.6% of the time that you don't need to cool the house against a rare extreme. Not reaching below 75 on occasion does not mean you're equipment is undersized or that anything is wrong unless it's happening more than a few of the hottest days of the year. But keeping your coils clean is always a good idea because anything built up on there is insulation preventing heat transfer from taking place.
Grandpa used to do it...if you don't know, old timers used to water down the roof on their house when it was hot. Anyone think this really works? Explain the logic?