Leaky Rear Pinion Yoke Seal

f22beaver

f22beaver

TJ Enthusiast
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Jul 6, 2021
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Location
Indianapolis
My rear pinion seal is leaking past the yoke/seal interface. It's a Dana 44 if it matters. Is it common that the seal gets damaged during install? I've bought the skf seal for replacement but I'm concerned it's leaking at the yoke. I vaguely recall the yoke not having the most perfect surface when I did the seal a few months back. Bad news?

It's a 2004 4.0 AT if that matters for the replacement part should I need one.
 
I'd replace the seal again with a new pinion flange. also pack the new seal with assembly grease to keep the spring in place during installation
 
From what I've read over the years, the pinion seal is a bit of a challenge to replace correctly. Something about a bearing preload & crush sleeve. Internet seems roughly split on whether or not you can "cheat" and just use the same crush sleeve with the same pre-load by counting # of turns of the nut as you remove it or something.

Not saying it can't be done, but proceed with caution. Or are you saying you already did it recently and now it's leaking again?
 
hear said:
From what I've read over the years, the pinion seal is a bit of a challenge to replace correctly. Something about a bearing preload & crush sleeve. Internet seems roughly split on whether or not you can "cheat" and just use the same crush sleeve with the same pre-load by counting # of turns of the nut as you remove it or something.

Not saying it can't be done, but proceed with caution. Or are you saying you already did it recently and now it's leaking again?
Click to expand...

I think I read the TJ 44's didn't use the crush sleeve, just shims. So I did the make a line and put the nut back where it came off method.

But you raise a good question. Maybe I need to spend more time learning the install procedure.

And I did already replace it because the first one was just all beat up. It was leaking between the housing and seal. So this new leak is in a different place. This new one has been on 6+ months before starting to leak onto the ground. So it's possible it started before that.
 
TJ Dana 44's use shims not a crush sleeve. No need to mark the nut. I'm always a proponent of using a new nut, but if you are going to reuse it, red loctite it and crank it to around 180-200 ft./ lbs.

As far as worrying about the seal, it's easy enough to throw another on and give it another go. Put some grease on the yoke where the seal rides so it doesn't ride dry.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
TJ Dana 44's use shims not a crush sleeve. No need to mark the nut. I'm always a proponent of using a new nut, but if you are going to reuse it, red loctite it and crank it to around 180-200 ft./ lbs.

As far as worrying about the seal, it's easy enough to throw another on and give it another go. Put some grease on the yoke where the seal rides so it doesn't ride dry.
Click to expand...

This. If you are having a repeat leak I would get a new Spicer seal, yoke and nut.
 
Replacing the seal and yoke on my Rubicon. When I took the nut off of the yoke, there was no washer? Manual shows a washer.... I've ordered a new nut (jeez you'd think those would be easier to find!), and having trouble finding the washer. Should I reassemble without the washer, or might someone have a source for the washer?
 
UhOh said:
Replacing the seal and yoke on my Rubicon. When I took the nut off of the yoke, there was no washer? Manual shows a washer.... I've ordered a new nut (jeez you'd think those would be easier to find!), and having trouble finding the washer. Should I reassemble without the washer, or might someone have a source for the washer?
Click to expand...

Starting in about 2003 the nut is flanged so there is no washer.
 
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Awesome, thanks! The nut I removed is flanged. I believe the one I ordered is flanged as well.

When reinstalling, just tighten to 180-200 ft-lbs? I've read that the turn resistance of the yoke should be measured and within a certain range as well?
 
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