Lift questions

CptnMurica

CptnMurica

TJ Enthusiast
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arkansas
So I’m trying to squeeze a little more. 01’ I’m on h r 13” front and 9” rear with rs5000x 0-1” on 31s Just bought springs and shocks in last 2 or 3 months. I measured and it settled to 3/4”. I was curious what would be the biggest spring spacer I could go without worrying about shock travel. If at all. I think Rancho says there is a little more travel specified? Could I add, I don’t really know a 3/4 and go to 1 1/2? And it is that the way to snatch a little more or body lift? What’s up with all that, what ya think.
 
you can add as much as it takes you to get to the shocks mid travel point at rest. but any more lift can have effects.
 
pagrey said:
Those are good shocks for 1-2"
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if the shocks are at 1/2 (possibly a hair over) travel now, how does the OP push the lift another inch without wrecking that offset?
pagrey said:
Have you correctly bumped the fronts?
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don't we need to establish a proper travel zone 1st? then bumps are used to pad the top end of that travel zone, correct?
pagrey said:
Have you cycled your suspension?
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perfect.
 
someguysjeep said:
if the shocks are at 1/2 (possibly a hair over) travel now, how does the OP push the lift another inch without wrecking that offset?

don't we need to establish a proper travel zone 1st? then bumps are used to pad the top end of that travel zone, correct?

perfect.
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Yes this is all the stuff Im looking to hear. I don’t wanna open a can of worms on myself. Jeep is great for what I do. but I get into some spots. I m not beyond getting new shocks even though I just got some. That’s all some technical shit I need to wrap my head around.
 
@Cptnmurica, you can always add a body lift. Shock travel bias won’t change. If you do you might want to get a cable shifter and 1”Mml too, though they can both be worked around
 
Cptnmurica said:
Ok I’ll research that also. Ty
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A body lift is the single “most bang for your buck mod” possible. Mainly to add more room for bigger tires, but also 1) makes more room for larger spare above the rear bumper and 2) prepares the way for a TT.
 
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JMT said:
A body lift is the single “most bang for your buck mod” possible. Mainly to add more room for bigger tires, but also 1) makes more room for larger spare above the rear bumper and 2) prepares the way for a TT.
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Excuse my ignorance but makes sense to me that “body lift” gets the tub a little higher off of the frame so gas tank stays put?
 
Cptnmurica said:
Excuse my ignorance but makes sense to me that “body lift” gets the tub a little higher off of the frame so gas tank stays put?
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Yes, it does raise the tub off the frame. The gas tank CAN stay put (you will need to wiggle some more length out of the gas tank fill hose), or you CAN do a 1” gas tank tuck, which is what I advise. It’s free clearance. See post #8 on this page. You do not need to know how to weld.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-involved-in-lifting-the-gas-tank-one-inch.23059/
 
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JMT said:
Yes, it does raise the tub off the frame. The gas tank CAN stay put (you will need to wiggle some more length out of the gas tank fill hose), or you CAN do a 1” gas tank tuck, which is what I advise. It’s free clearance. See post #8 on this page. You do not need to know how to weld.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-involved-in-lifting-the-gas-tank-one-inch.23059/
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Right on! @JMT if it doesn’t mess with my shock travel as is working fine and I can take the gas tank up with it. That’s what I’m looking for. I gotta work on my exit just bit. Rear bumper etc. Not a whole lot but just enough where I’m not having to risk possible vibrations ect. By raising closer to the 2” mark. Is what I understand from reading here.
 
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@someguysjeep he's at 3/4" and pushing to 1-2" will put it at a good spot. Most people forget to bump those Ranchos and they are long for stock up front no matter what else happens. I don't think you really need to establish a good zone, overall it's fine for what was described.

JMT has me blocked so the thread is a bit difficult to follow without logging out which is a bit tiring, a body lift doesn't really serve much purpose with 31" tires but if the plan is to go bigger down the road I guess that's fine.
 
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Cptnmurica said:
Right on! @JMT if it doesn’t mess with my shock travel as is working fine and I can take the gas tank up with it. That’s what I’m looking for. I gotta work on my exit just bit. Rear bumper etc. Not a whole lot but just enough where I’m not having to risk possible vibrations ect. By raising closer to the 2” mark. Is what I understand from reading here.
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If your suspension lift is 2-2.5” your driveline will probably be fine. If it does have a little vibes just throw a 1” MML block in for $50 and call it good.

Your only about 1” suspension lift, so you’re nowhere near vibes. A body lift doesn’t affect the driveline angles, so it’s going to drive just like it does now.
 
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pagrey said:
Those tires essentially fit stock so 1.25" more clearance does what? You could put a 4" lift on as well for a few more inches of clearance you don't really need. As I said, I guess it's fine. Good enough is just that, enough.
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You can always use more clearance. ;)
zone lift 1 (2017_11_20 00_38_12 UTC).jpg
 
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TheBoogieman said:
You can always use more clearance. ;)
View attachment 313887
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Right I’m just mulling over ideas on how to achieve a bit more with out full on sending it. If mine was a 4.0 with a rear 44 then I would be sending. 32s are definitely on the radar. Trying to figure out what may be the best possible approach that’s not so invasive. Keeps it tight and fully functional suspension wise. I’m basically an advanced trail runner that gets into some occasional shit.
 
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