Longer lower control arm bolts for Savvy control arm install

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GA05LJ

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North Georgia
I'm in the middle of installing a 4" Currie lift with Savvy Double Adjustable arms.

Since i'm running aftermarket axles with thicker brackets it looks like the bolts supplied with the kit are not going to be long enough.

Does anyone have a link to where i can order the same bolts just .5 inch longer?

Im having a hard time at my local hardware store(s) trying to locate what I need. They either don't go up to that size or if they do its a coarse thread bolt.

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GA05LJ said:
Nice, it looks like they have just about every fastener I would ever need.
Now I just need to make sure I order the right stuff!
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You don't need Nylocs and you don't need washers that thick with brackets that thick. Convert to conventional grade 8 hex nuts with red Loctite.
 
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You can also look for center lock (some refer to as mid lock) nuts. Work well in this application.
 
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mrblaine said:
Do they tear up the threads like the top locks do?
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Not that I have experienced. But I also try my best to treat locking fasteners as one time use whenever possible. Mother nature up here helps spur that practice on anyway.
 
I got my hardware from boltdepot.com when I needed some new lock nuts for my Currie arms. I used top lock nuts. They haven't damaged the threads, yet....I have had prevailing torque damage threads though...
 
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Mike_H said:
I got my hardware from boltdepot.com when I needed some new lock nuts for my Currie arms. I used top lock nuts. They haven't damaged the threads, yet....I have had that prevailing torque damage threads though...
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We have had to do enough trail repairs where the top locks damaged the threads enough that the bolt wasn't able to be used. Enough of that and I switched to regular graded nuts and Loctite.
 
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GA05LJ said:
I'm in the middle of installing a 4" Currie lift with Savvy Double Adjustable arms.

Since i'm running aftermarket axles with thicker brackets it looks like the bolts supplied with the kit are not going to be long enough.

Does anyone have a link to where i can order the same bolts just .5 inch longer?

Im having a hard time at my local hardware store(s) trying to locate what I need. They either don't go up to that size or if they do its a coarse thread bolt.

View attachment 237329

View attachment 237330
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The grease zerks should be facing up toward the tub by the way. That way they don't get taken out by a rock.
 
mrblaine said:
We have had to do enough trail repairs where the top locks damaged the threads enough that the bolt wasn't able to be used. Enough of that and I switched to regular graded nuts and Loctite.
Click to expand...
Makes sense. I've never had to pull a control arm while wheeling. I'm about to take the arms off for their first annual greasing...so we'll see if I regret my top lock decision.
 
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Mike_H said:
I got my hardware from boltdepot.com when I needed some new lock nuts for my Currie arms. I used top lock nuts. They haven't damaged the threads, yet....I have had that prevailing torque damage threads though...
Click to expand...
I have only used Nyloc and prevailing torque nuts before. I'm going to have to use google to figure out what the advantages of top and mid lock are and when to use what.
 
Alex01 said:
The grease zerks should be facing up toward the tub by the way. That way they don't get taken out by a rock.
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I started with the rear first before I wised up and put the zerks facing up on the front.
Flipping the rear is on my punch list before I finalize the project.
 
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GA05LJ said:
I have only used Nyloc and prevailing torque nuts before. I'm going to have to use google to figure out what the advantages of top and mid lock are and when to use what.
Click to expand...
They are just different methods to achieve the same result. A mid lock will have a deformed thread in the middle of the nut. Top lock nuts have an acorn shape on the top, where they are deformed. That deformation is what helps hold them in place...and can cause galling and damage to the threads in the bolt.
 
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