Looking for 1st Jeep

R

Richie

New Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Messages
10
Location
Texas, United States
My folks recently bought a ranch in South Texas that I intend to visit as often as possible. The last 15 miles are very rocky and our suburbia tahoe takes a beating. Sounds like a perfect reason to get something I've always wanted right?!? This will not be a daily by any means, but the first 5 hours of the drive is on highway, we have 2 little kids (5 and 8), and we its always hot outside. So I've narrowed my requirements down to a TJ with an AC in good working order, and a hard top and back seats will be required whether they come with vehicle or not. An automatic transmission is preferred. Something with an upgraded suspension and aggressive tires in decent shape are also a major plus.

This jeep checks all the boxes above, but the chassis has a lot of miles on it. He lives close enough to me that I shouldn't have an issue getting it checked by a mechanic, but before it gets to that point I thought you experts might have some thoughts. I have read the thread on what to look for, so more interested in thoughts on this specific vehicle.

I also really like this YJ, but the guy lives a good 2.5 hours away and has not been terribly responsive thus far. Plus I would have to get a hard top afterwards.

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum! Personally, I would pass on both. Both have too many garage mechanic modifications that would make me nervous. Look at the faq and find the "buying used tj" thread. Keep looking, the right one for your fam is out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: billiebob and bobthetj03
Rob5589 said:
Welcome to the forum! Personally, I would pass on both. Both have too many garage mechanic modifications that would make me nervous. Look at the faq and find the "buying used tj" thread. Keep looking, the right one for your fam is out there.
Click to expand...

Can you give me some examples of what you're assuming are the garage mechanic mods that I should avoid? Or should I just look for something as stock as possible and modify myself (I was trying to avoid this, but get the reasoning).
 
Rust on the frame is the biggest issue. Check the frame for weak spots with a ballpeen hammer. Surface rust is ok.

That's a lot of lift for a TJ. Big tires too. I'd ask what size they are and what his gearing is. Hard to imagine this would be a fun ride for several hours w two little ones. Might need a backseat. Seems to be MIA. All the best!
 
The TJ has an unk 6" lift, which if all of it is suspension, it takes a good amount of money and know how to do correctly. He makes no mention of a gear swap which is necessary with those tires. He admits there is a trans issue. Running Swamper Boggers, those tires, will be terrible on the hwy. Plus a ton of miles.

The YJ has had an engine swap as well as all sorts of other changes. Unless I knew the guy personally and could vouch for his mechanical skills, that one is best left to someone willing to inherit someone elses problem.

Best is to find something close to stock, not beat up or heavily modified, and something sound for rolling down the hwy with your family. 5 hrs is a haul in a cramped Jeep, neither of those qualify, IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Rust......Check for it. Check Carfax/autocheck to make sure its a lifetime southern vehicle and not brought down from a place like Minnesota 5 years ago.

The modded transmission would worry me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob5589
Thanks guys this is very helpful. The crampedness and highway ride have been the two big concerns, but the funness and infrequency I am hopeful will offset those. Budgetwise, 8k has been my ceiling. Would everyone agree the auto and 6cyl are musts for the highway?
 
Richie said:
Thanks guys this is very helpful. The crampedness and highway ride have been the two big concerns, but the funness and infrequency I am hopeful will offset those. Budgetwise, 8k has been my ceiling. Would everyone agree the auto and 6cyl are musts for the highway?
Click to expand...
Are you trying to get people mad around here? ;) I'd get a 4.0.

At age 5 and 8 the kids can climb up the wheel and over the side into back seat when your topless, a definite fun factor! Crampdess, therefore, does not sound like a problem at this time in your life!

If you have cruise control I'm not sure auto vs standard would matter either way on the HWY. most for sale are auto, but I wouldn't count out a standard with cruise control.
 
Richie said:
Thanks guys this is very helpful. The crampedness and highway ride have been the two big concerns, but the funness and infrequency I am hopeful will offset those. Budgetwise, 8k has been my ceiling. Would everyone agree the auto and 6cyl are musts for the highway?
Click to expand...
Oh yea, the 4.0/auto is the way for long hwy trips. And this from a guy that has the 4 cyl and manual trans :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Those tires on the first one will drive you and your family insane on the hwy. My guess is they are at least 35's, maybe 37's. If it hasn't been re-geared, it will be a dog to drive. You'll need a step ladder for your wife to climb in. 6" of lift is a lot on short arms. Find a stocker, or close to stock and save yourself the headache.
 
  • Like
Reactions: billiebob, Rob5589 and JMT
Since this is a trip vehicle, i'd look for an LJ (non rubicon). This way you have a little space for luggage for you and your kids. The unlimiteds (LJ) were only made in 2005 and 2006. The bad thing is that 8k probably won't be enough. You'll need 10k-15k for a decent LJ.
 
I purchased my current 97SE just so I could have a convertible. I have a couple MJ's, and a low mile XJ Wagoneer thats my real project as it was my dad's. I noticed the 4.0s bring $2-4k+ more than 2.5, and I wanted to get out cheap. So I found the one I have not running. It had a fairly new 4" Rough Country lift kit, Very evenly worn 33x12.5 BFG AT TA's, Nice rust free body and decent miles (137k). The motor wasn't locked up. I noticed it had the original track bars on it, so I knew the PO had gone cheap. But, not only did it have a good body, but it had a hardtop and the full doors. I figured from pricing things the lift kit was worth about 600, the hard top about 800, the doors about 600, and the wheels and tires around 1000. I paid 3000 for the thing. The PO said it had run hot, I figured a head gasket. Well. I was right, except it also burned 2 pistons. Motor. $1500. Then i got it running, all the bolts in the rear were loose, including the driveshaft, the front axle was 2" off center. Front and rear track bar, new steering components, 700. The power steering was whining. New pump, lines, aluminum reservoir, Durango box, cooler (to make that fist sized pump live). 400. The muffler has a hole the size of a small watermelon on the top, that you couldn't see from underneath. Entire exhaust system, 400. Check engine light on, EVAP purge valve, 50. Airbag light on, no horn. Clockspring 100. After running it, POS AW5 tranny is leaking, prob rear seal, jury is still out on $ for that. Geared 4:10 with the 33's, 5th gear is totally useless. Re-gear, 800 for parts no locker, I have stuff to do it thankfully.

The bottom line of this long winded deal is a lesson I learned a long time ago working on Porsche 914s, but apparently forgot. It cost just as much to fix the 4cyl as it does the 6, but when I get finished it will be worth thousands less. The 4 doesnt get much better mileage than the 6, and a reman 6 would have only cost 300 more. And it has the crappy AW5 tranny. Doesnt make sense. Also, beware of mileage on these things. Sometimes the real low mile ones have had the miles cut, or they sat for years. Good Luck.
 
On that TJ.... 6800-3000 for the useless wheels and tires.... 3$K yeah and get some 33s.... and drop the lift a bit. But it really looks pretty scary. Who did the lift? Why the monster RAM rims and tires.
 
Last edited:
Richie said:
Thanks guys this is very helpful. The crampedness and highway ride have been the two big concerns, but the funness and infrequency I am hopeful will offset those. Budgetwise, 8k has been my ceiling. Would everyone agree the auto and 6cyl are musts for the highway?
Click to expand...
For a smoother highway ride.... stay stock !! The old 3speed auto is a bulletproof tranny. The newer 4speed OD autos leave a bit to be desired with the massive .69? OD ratio. But yes... if you will drive lots of highway... get the 4.0L.

That YJ almost looks cool.
 
Ok ... other than non Wrangler specific things that these guys have forgotten more than I know, I would address the following: 1) how can a 30yr old vehicle have 53k original mikes unless the miles have been cut or it was wrecked and sat forever 2) ask how long they've had it and if they have photos of the damage that caused it to be totalled. They are correct, it doesn't take much to total a 30 yo vehicle. 3) fresh paint is ALWAYS a red flag. Find out how long this guy has had this thing. If he's had it a year or less, very good chance be bought it wrecked and threw it together to make a quick buck and 4) the fact that it has a salvage title means that unless you could care less about what you invest vs what it's worth, you will have to watch every penny you sink in this thing bc it appears to me to be avout maxed out without a clean title. 5) unless it's been replaced, it has the problematic carb that comes with those pre 4.0 sixes, plus it doesn't have the power. That's my 2c , I'm sure the other guys will chime in about the wrangler specific stuff.
 
Last edited:
Richie said:
Ok so based on the feedback here I refined my search a bit and found this one. I know its not a TJ so please forgive me, but thoughts??
Click to expand...

Most of us aren't to familiar with YJs. I know that member @Brantley has a YJ, so perhaps he can share some YJ information with you. He's a smart guy!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Brantley
Richie said:
Ok so based on the feedback here I refined my search a bit and found this one. I know its not a TJ so please forgive me, but thoughts??
Click to expand...
That's a Wrangler "YJ" which has the less desirable and older rough-riding leaf spring suspension that hasn't been used in Jeeps since the 1995 model. 1997 and newer (there was no 1996 model produced) Wrangler TJs include the much better riding and easier to work on all coil spring suspension.

Yes for highway driving, the 4.0L six cylinder engine is the way to go. And personally, I agree that I'd want an automatic too. Especially since automatics give more low-end torque than manual transmissions do (yes, true).

If you have visions of it having big tires, like 35", do yourself a big favor and look at the rear axle first before getting too serious about any particular Jeep. 1997 to 2006 Wrangler TJs had two rear axle options... the standard Dana 35 which is too weak for big tires, and the optional extra-cost Dana 44 which is much stronger and is the more desirable axle of the two. Few people selling Jeeps know what their rear axle is so they rarely sell for more than Jeeps with the standard Dana 35 go for.

Here's how to easily tell... and the easiest way to quickly tell is to look at what plug is used in the lubricant fill hole. The Dana 35 has a cheesy black plastic snap-in plug in the hole while the stronger Dana 44 has a threaded steel plug there.

This the weaker Dana 35...
Dana 35c cover.jpg


This is the stronger Dana 44...

Dana-44-good-pic.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: CodaMan and JP98
I would stay away from the YJ's. Their ride isn't as enjoyable as the TJ and if your last 15 miles of a 5 hour trip are beating you to peaces it will not end in a fun time. You should be able to find a great rust free TJ in the price range that you are looking at. It may just take a little time.
 
Top Bottom
Back