Looking for Input on Lowering TJ and/or Getting Smaller Tires

This is just a normal pitman arm, not a drop pitman arm right?

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So I went through a lot of this. You can jump to all the other things, but here is what I did Exaclty with mine. I drove it 80 on TX 45 Tollway and 183, one finger on the steering wheel. Tracks super straight, no more all over.

1. I would bet a ton your Caster isn’t right. The shop may not know that, crazy to say that, but I’ve seen it at two of the biggest Jeep shops here.
There no so specific number, but 6 to 8 is probably going to make a huge difference.
Just as an example, I have a CJ5 with 35’s and 6” lift I bought. Freaking Jeep was all over the road, drifting tracking badly, non stop work to stay in my lane. I added 6 degree shims to add Caster, and I drive it out doing 65 now no issues, tracks like $. You’re describing issues I’ve seen on 2 TJ’s a CJ and a JK that have been lifted, and adjusting the Caster was the biggest part of it.

2. Look up the thread for @home Toe In , get aluminum bar at Home Depot and some clamps and two exact tape measures.

Drive it and see what it feels like. I would absolutely not start even talking about Steering etc, PSC or anything until you adjust the CA’s and make sure Caster and Toe in are right there.

I’d also make 100% that they didn’t ad a Drop Pitman, but that is more Bump Steer, not all this drifting.

Also, yes, when your TJ is set up with not enough Caster with a lift, it will drift, and wind will push you all over too. Another car passing will push you around, all of that.

This one drove all over, and now drives like it’s on rails.

View attachment 506908

My CJ5 isn’t on rails, ha, but it was crazy bad, and Caster fixed her up, I can roll 65 1 finger on the wheel ( I don’t drive like that, but I can)
View attachment 506909

Wow that's wild!! 🤯 Sounds more and more like the alignment may be the main issue. You've described my experience for sure - constant correcting to stay in my lane, getting pushed to the side pretty significantly when getting passed, etc. - I thought this was all just the nature of the beast, having a 3.5" lift with 33s.

Doing a ctrl-f search on the DIY toe-in post, I see that he says it is not possible to adjust caster or camber angles without aftermarket parts and he says a shop would only adjust toe-in and center the steering wheel. Is this because adjustable control arms are needed to be able to adjust these, or for another reason?
 
Doing a ctrl-f search on the DIY toe-in post, I see that he says it is not possible to adjust caster or camber angles without aftermarket parts and he says a shop would only adjust toe-in and center the steering wheel. Is this because adjustable control arms are needed to be able to adjust these, or for another reason?

Correct. The caster requires you to have adjustable control arms. Camber is not possible to adjust on a TJ. Toe is a DIY job. Pretty easy with a few simple things mentioned by @cpwolf. Certainly save a lot of money.

I just use two 24" aluminum bars and two tape measures. Center the aluminum bar with the hub center on the brake rotor face and take your measurements. Adjust at the tie rod end so that the front measures 1/8" narrower than the rear measurement (e.g. if front 65" then rear 65 1/8"). AFter you get that right center your steering wheel at the drag link. Do so with the Jeep running. It may take a few adjustments and drives to get it just right. Speaking of, I need to go change mine slightly.
 
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Wow that's wild!! 🤯 Sounds more and more like the alignment may be the main issue. You've described my experience for sure - constant correcting to stay in my lane, getting pushed to the side pretty significantly when getting passed, etc. - I thought this was all just the nature of the beast, having a 3.5" lift with 33s.

Doing a ctrl-f search on the DIY toe-in post, I see that he says it is not possible to adjust caster or camber angles without aftermarket parts and he says a shop would only adjust toe-in and center the steering wheel. Is this because adjustable control arms are needed to be able to adjust these, or for another reason?

Camber you can't, at least not to normal knowledge, I'm sure "can't" is perspective, but not a thing really here.

Caster, yes, Adjustable control arms do Exactly that. You can use them to center the axle and also adjust Caster, or some say front Pinion Angle.
 
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Long time lurker here. I can offer some insight as I just did a similar thing. I have an 02 tj SE. (I know, wish the engine was bigger).

The previous owner put on a 4 inch lift and had 33 inch tires on it. They stuck with everything else stock except a drop pitman arm, some fixed lowers, and some bad shocks. After I got death wobble I realized a lot needed to change.

I dropped it to 2 inch springs (JKS dual rate, which I highly recommend), and 31 inch tires. (Not to mention basically rebuilding the entire front suspension)

The ride quality difference is enormous. The change in performance is also significant. Now, a lot of the ride quality difference I’m sure has to do with the fact that I changed out my control arms, track bar, and steering system to all Currie components. I also replaced the ball joints and wheel bearings.

Getting castor back to spec was huge as well.

If you use your jeep as mostly a pavement driver, I think you’d probably be very glad you made the switch. I went from really hating driving my jeep to now enjoying it.
 
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Hey bud, I’m local in Chandler with a TJ on a 2ish lift and 31s for you to compare to, and a garage, and all the tools necessary to check and fix your alignment.

Send me a PM if you are interested in meeting up.

That'd be awesome thanks, will PM you.
 
Long time lurker here. I can offer some insight as I just did a similar thing. I have an 02 tj SE. (I know, wish the engine was bigger).

The previous owner put on a 4 inch lift and had 33 inch tires on it. They stuck with everything else stock except a drop pitman arm, some fixed lowers, and some bad shocks. After I got death wobble I realized a lot needed to change.

I dropped it to 2 inch springs (JKS dual rate, which I highly recommend), and 31 inch tires. (Not to mention basically rebuilding the entire front suspension)

The ride quality difference is enormous. The change in performance is also significant. Now, a lot of the ride quality difference I’m sure has to do with the fact that I changed out my control arms, track bar, and steering system to all Currie components. I also replaced the ball joints and wheel bearings.

Getting castor back to spec was huge as well.

If you use your jeep as mostly a pavement driver, I think you’d probably be very glad you made the switch. I went from really hating driving my jeep to now enjoying it.

Careful to whom you say that control arms make your ride smoother... as a long time lurker as well I've seen lots of passionate opinions about this 😂

Thank you so much for the input on your experience with going down to 2" springs and 31" tires. Depending on the results I get from making adjustments/improvements to the alignment, I may still consider going this route. I can relate to the feeling of not enjoying driving my Jeep as much as I'd like to - I really didn't like the look when it was stock but I've kinda missed the driving experience ever since.
 
I am with the others, I would most certainly check what your caster angle is first. My money is that this is your real issue and spending money on other stuff isn't going to fix a bad castor angle problem. Most it will cost to rule this out is the cost of one of those angle finders.

When I got my Savvy Mid Arms installed the guy who did the alignment (not the MA install) forgot to Loctite the upper CA. Went for a shake down run and the jam nuts loosened and the arm backed out. My Castor was dangerously off and it felt like death driving it. Got it fixed and all better. This is pretty extreme, but it really impressed in me what castor really effects and how it feels to be off. What others describe it right, wanders, gets pushed around.
 
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