This is just a normal pitman arm, not a drop pitman arm right?
So I went through a lot of this. You can jump to all the other things, but here is what I did Exaclty with mine. I drove it 80 on TX 45 Tollway and 183, one finger on the steering wheel. Tracks super straight, no more all over.
1. I would bet a ton your Caster isn’t right. The shop may not know that, crazy to say that, but I’ve seen it at two of the biggest Jeep shops here.
There no so specific number, but 6 to 8 is probably going to make a huge difference.
Just as an example, I have a CJ5 with 35’s and 6” lift I bought. Freaking Jeep was all over the road, drifting tracking badly, non stop work to stay in my lane. I added 6 degree shims to add Caster, and I drive it out doing 65 now no issues, tracks like $. You’re describing issues I’ve seen on 2 TJ’s a CJ and a JK that have been lifted, and adjusting the Caster was the biggest part of it.
2. Look up the thread for @home Toe In , get aluminum bar at Home Depot and some clamps and two exact tape measures.
Drive it and see what it feels like. I would absolutely not start even talking about Steering etc, PSC or anything until you adjust the CA’s and make sure Caster and Toe in are right there.
I’d also make 100% that they didn’t ad a Drop Pitman, but that is more Bump Steer, not all this drifting.
Also, yes, when your TJ is set up with not enough Caster with a lift, it will drift, and wind will push you all over too. Another car passing will push you around, all of that.
This one drove all over, and now drives like it’s on rails.
View attachment 506908
My CJ5 isn’t on rails, ha, but it was crazy bad, and Caster fixed her up, I can roll 65 1 finger on the wheel ( I don’t drive like that, but I can)
View attachment 506909
Doing a ctrl-f search on the DIY toe-in post, I see that he says it is not possible to adjust caster or camber angles without aftermarket parts and he says a shop would only adjust toe-in and center the steering wheel. Is this because adjustable control arms are needed to be able to adjust these, or for another reason?
Wow that's wild!! Sounds more and more like the alignment may be the main issue. You've described my experience for sure - constant correcting to stay in my lane, getting pushed to the side pretty significantly when getting passed, etc. - I thought this was all just the nature of the beast, having a 3.5" lift with 33s.
Doing a ctrl-f search on the DIY toe-in post, I see that he says it is not possible to adjust caster or camber angles without aftermarket parts and he says a shop would only adjust toe-in and center the steering wheel. Is this because adjustable control arms are needed to be able to adjust these, or for another reason?
Hey bud, I’m local in Chandler with a TJ on a 2ish lift and 31s for you to compare to, and a garage, and all the tools necessary to check and fix your alignment.
Send me a PM if you are interested in meeting up.
Hey bud, I’m local in Chandler with a TJ on a 2ish lift and 31s for you to compare to, and a garage, and all the tools necessary to check and fix your alignment.
Send me a PM if you are interested in meeting up.
@luckystr1k3 what tire pressure are you running? I don't think I've seen that info in this thread yet.
Should be about 25-27 PSI on your 33x12.5 tires.
Long time lurker here. I can offer some insight as I just did a similar thing. I have an 02 tj SE. (I know, wish the engine was bigger).
The previous owner put on a 4 inch lift and had 33 inch tires on it. They stuck with everything else stock except a drop pitman arm, some fixed lowers, and some bad shocks. After I got death wobble I realized a lot needed to change.
I dropped it to 2 inch springs (JKS dual rate, which I highly recommend), and 31 inch tires. (Not to mention basically rebuilding the entire front suspension)
The ride quality difference is enormous. The change in performance is also significant. Now, a lot of the ride quality difference I’m sure has to do with the fact that I changed out my control arms, track bar, and steering system to all Currie components. I also replaced the ball joints and wheel bearings.
Getting castor back to spec was huge as well.
If you use your jeep as mostly a pavement driver, I think you’d probably be very glad you made the switch. I went from really hating driving my jeep to now enjoying it.