Looking to replace / upgrade Rough Country lift

[ctcomputers]

The wheels look like you are likely correct at 10" wide. To stay with 33's, you'll need 3.5" like I stated above. If you want to replace the lift for a reasonable cost, the Zone 4.25" combo lift would be great. It is 3" suspension, 1.25 body lift, and can run 33's no issue with proper bumpstops. I would also add in a JKS front track bar.

To properly set the rear pinion, the CORE tier 1 arms will work great. You can get away with uppers but the correct way is both upper and lower. And of course you can do all 8 if the budget allows.

When you reference properly setting the rear pinion does that mean using the Core upper and lower control arms only for the rear (but ideally adding upper and lower on the front as well if in budget)?

The Zone combo lift looks like a great budget kit. Would I still use the motor mount shim since I have the SYE? Also concerning proper bumpstops is that included in the Zone kit or is that what appears to be missing on my current rig and I would need to purchase separately?

 

[ctcomputers]

The wheels look like you are likely correct at 10" wide. To stay with 33's, you'll need 3.5" like I stated above. If you want to replace the lift for a reasonable cost, the Zone 4.25" combo lift would be great. It is 3" suspension, 1.25 body lift, and can run 33's no issue with proper bumpstops. I would also add in a JKS front track bar.

To properly set the rear pinion, the CORE tier 1 arms will work great. You can get away with uppers but the correct way is both upper and lower. And of course you can do all 8 if the budget allows.

What are your thoughts on the Zone 3" lift (or anything comparable)? I think I would prefer to stay away from additional body lift with the minimum suspension lift needed to clear my existing 33x12.50 wheels. It looks like they provide an option to upgrade shocks in the Zone kit to Fox but haven't found ride information compared to RS5000x. My understanding is the ride quality and reliability of the cheaper kits is often due to cheaper shocks that are included?

The Core Tier 1 adjustable and greasable control arms look very appealing. I gather the Zone 3" is designed to work with stock control arms and they provide an option to upgrade only the front and rear lower control arms. I am going to look closer at my upper control arms and if everything should be replaced I would probably go completely with Core if I can afford it.

Lastly, do I need to be concerned about transfer case drop or motor mount lifting mentioned in kits since I have a slip yoke eliminator? Apparently I already have TC drop bushings that were left when the SYE was added but if I understand correctly they are not longer necessary with SYE?

What prompted me to start investigating all of this is not that it necessarily rides rough, but that I notice the back end feels "squirly" when turning and similar. I don't notice it at highway speeds just slow cornering and/or bumps. Are worn control arms the likely cause of this and/or also the fact that the rear is off center (front to back) without adjustable control arms?

 

[Rob5589]

The adjustable control arms move the pinion angles up and down, and wheelbase forward or rearward.

With the sye and control arms, you do not need the motor mount lift or transfer case drop.

3" is generally the limit on stock control arms. But if you are doing the rears, I would also do the fronts if in the budget. Your stock arms are toast from what you are saying so they need replacing anyway.

"Squirrely" road manners can be several things. The first check is tire pressure; about 26 lbs is what you want in 33's unloaded. Next would be a dry steer test to check for worn components. I believe there is a video here in the how to section.

 

[ctcomputers]

Thanks for clearing up some of my questions. I really appreciate it! I'll do some more research and reading.

I'm not sure how to describe the current road manners accurately. Steering feels positive and the sliding or shifting feels more rearward. It's more like the rear end is on marbles or shifts sideways but only certain things make it very noticeable like over bumps or bumps while turning. I don't hear strange noises, clunks or pops. Does that sound like shot control arms?

Sounds like it would be good to get the complete set of adjustable arms to start with regardless. I like the idea of being able to grease them unless that really doesn't matter much. After they are replaced I can investigate lift options including springs and shocks. I'd like to do away with the thick coil spacers and also know what I actually have.

 

[Brad W]

Trying not to hijack the post.

Speaking of control arms. Could I go back to OE ones if I'm looking to make my suspension lift shorter?

 

[ctcomputers]

Definitely coils and spacers. Control arms are stock. You could lose the spacers and install some new shocks but you need to correct some things while in there. No bump stop extensions in front or rear. Front coils are off center and not in the correct position. Front trackbar hole was re-drilled.

I think I'm getting things sorted out with the help of everyone on the forum. Can someone confirm what I am missing/need (bumpstops?) and where to purchase? Also how do I center the coils and more importantly how did they get off center?

I'd also like to purchase the RS5000x shocks but not entirely sure how to determine my lift and what shock model (2-3" or 4-5") is appropriate. I'm assuming the 2-3" model since I've read they run long but want to confirm.

Thanks!

 

[ctcomputers]

Would like comments/questions from the following front suspension photos. I apparently have 21" uncompressed front springs using a 2" spacer and two additional 3/4" isolators. I am guessing maybe the additional isolator could have been used with the front bumper and winch combo for leveling purposes.

My main question is what has been changed from stock as far as the upper bumpstops? Is it possible the rubber portion is fixed and is not designed to collapse into the cup like others I have seen negating the need for a bottom bumpstop? I'm trying to measures things accurately as far as cycling suspension and if I need to add an additional bottom bumpstop. I don't clearly understand what I have happening at the top and what components have been altered (perhaps just longer springs and a combination of a 2" spacers and isolators nothing with the bumpstop portion}?

Appreciate all help and information!

 

[ctcomputers]

I've cleaned up the front suspension a bit. I "centered" both springs as one was apparently not in the perch stop correctly. I also added lower bumpstops and replaced with recommended Rancho 2-3" lift shocks.

I'm curious if someone might be able to confirm a method for determining my actual lift height. I have roughly a 21" uncompressed spring which I think is 3" taller than stock along with a 2" hard spacer and perhaps an extra isolater. I rearranged the isolaters sandwiching the spacer between them as I thought it might be more appropriate than double stacked. I might experiment with getting rid of one of the isolaters or even the spacer if I can determine it will remain level and clear 33" tires correctly. I need to look closer at the rear as there must be a thinner (1"?) hard spacer there as well.

 

[ctcomputers]

Also ...are the following OEM jounce bumpers or aftermarket? They do not seem like they would compress. If they do not compress maybe I need to remeasure/confirm what I have done as far as lower bumpstops. Will need to confirm the same in the rear.