Hello. This is my second post. Moving from rough idle issue to lug stud issue. Bought 2001 wrangler SE. Had steel wheels and worn tires. Purchased set of used jeep 5 spoke 16 inch wheel from 98 wrangler with 31 x 10.5 General Grabbers. Excitement soon turned to frustration. Learned the steel whees were attached with 1 1/4 spacers. No big deal. Removed fronts first replaced new wheels/tires. Moved to rears. A few jug nuts stripped. Cut...drilled...banged and finally removed wheels and spacers. Now the issue. The rear wheel studs are too short? I can only threat about a quarter of the lug nut on. I just don't know why. Did the previous owner use a different drum? Did they use shorter lugs? Is the wheel too thick? The fronts are fine. At this point I'm preparing to remove rear wheels, drums and will try to replace the lug studs. Any advice on what the proper length is supposed to be? Should be a fun weekend...
Lug stud length
- Thread starter Krischick33
- Start date
I had to use longer wheel studs in my '06. If I recall correctly, the studs we used cross-referenced to the JK, but any good counterman at a quality auto parts store should be able to look up by the properties and dimensions you require (your best odds of finding a good counterman will be at a parts store that supplies the nearby independent auto repair facilities, often a NAPA).
Thanks Bill. I know approximately how much longer I need. I'm going to remove one and then I'll know what length I need.
I'd pop one out and take it to Napa and get the length you desire. You may need to heat them up to get them out though. The new once can be pulled through with double nuts.
Short rear studs are more common than I think people realize. Most people don't see it because the factory lugs are domed. You need 10 turns for it to be safe, forget what it looks like. You can see it just because you are probably using the open topped nuts, most people don't even realize they are running different length studs front to rear. Nothing wrong getting the correct length but if you get 10 full turns on the nuts don't worry too much about it.
one thread above the nut is good, doesn't matter how many turns.
To increase thread engagement when it is marginal go with an ET (extended thread) lug nut. Like these...
https://www.billetspecialties.com/wheels/wheel-accessories/lug-nuts/e-t-conical-seat-lug-nuts/
https://www.billetspecialties.com/wheels/wheel-accessories/lug-nuts/e-t-conical-seat-lug-nuts/
Before hunting down 10-20 lug bolts that were ~1 3/4 long. I read a few more posts. The recommendation from TrueTexas was a live saver. If doing this job you NEED to get a ball joint separator. Don't see any way to do it without. I used it to remove and install. Heat didn't seem to make a difference. It just takes time, patience and a little muscle to press in the new lug studs. A few pics attached. Thanks again for the help.
You can easily pull in the lug bolts with just a nut and a bit of washers stacked up. Tighten the nut and it will draw in the splines to achieve full contact behind the lug bolt.
Any recommendation on the studs, like brand or where to get them?
I went with what ever Oreilys, Autozone and Advanced stores had, and completely destroyed threads on few while pulling them in. Replaced destroyed ones, but still have few with minor thread damage.
I went with what ever Oreilys, Autozone and Advanced stores had, and completely destroyed threads on few while pulling them in. Replaced destroyed ones, but still have few with minor thread damage.
I also needed the longer studs due to wheel adapters when I installed a disc brake conversion on my 01 Sport 4.0L. The thickness of the rotor mounting surface is 3X that of the drum. Did a search and ordered longer studs from Rock Auto from a 1998 Jeep ZJ with disc brakes. The studs are approximatel 3/8" longer.
I've always used Napa. Only because it's the closest. But I've never had a problem with any (100+) I've used over the years.
Would you provide a link please? I need 10mm thread extension.
A caution about Billet Specialties E-T Lug Nuts. The conical seat depth was too shallow to fit properly/safely on my American Racing wheels.
Agree with Napa. Plus, they are more willing to bring a handful of options to look at. I know guys had said to use washers and a nut to pull the new studs through but that didn't for me. Get the ball joint separator.
Anyone know the length and specs of the 2006 LJR lug studs. Got a flat tire yesterday and when the tire guy was putting the repaired tire wheel back on he mentioned the studs had very little thread to screw the nuts on. I was shocked how little stud was showing through the rim to screw the lugs on (1/4"?). So I need to find out what the factory specs are and try to find some that are about 5/16" longer.
Can someone tell me how long the studs stick out of the rear wheel hub on a LJ Rubicon? Mine are slightly less than an inch. Had my rear axle replaced and don't know what the original length of the studs were, but I need longer ones.
I'm not running factory shafts or studs so I don't know but these will help, you need the 1/2x20 size. https://www.billetspecialties.com/wheels/wheel-accessories/lug-nuts/e-t-conical-seat-lug-nuts/
The ET lug nuts extend their threads down through the wheel's stud holes to grab more of the stud's threads. They give the same effect as longer studs, I'm running them myself since my studs are too short too.