Mac and Jeep build

CheddarJeep

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
30
Location
NW Washington
Hello everyone, a little while back I introduced my self on the “back into a TJ” thread. My friends since named my Jeep “Amber” after the Mac & Jacks African amber can colors (see photo) so hence the name for this build thread title.

I’m on mobile so I apologize for any formatting issues. And this first post will be a long one.

Onto the start now…

I am amassing parts currently for the build (more on that soon) and so far I have installed:
•Front and rear Antirock’s (came with none)
•Trucklites LED headlights (can’t see well at night without good lights)
•Genright mini boatside sliders
•S-tech Switch system and a few lights (I like wheeling at night)
•ICS system and Telex headsets
•some other small little mods as I’ve had time and been bored.

My goal with the jeep:
Intermittent daily driver to and from work, exploring backroads and the close by Walker Valley ORV park. Some slight rocks here and there and towing it to places like Moab/ Colorado/ Rubicon trail every year (annual road trip I do)

I am not super knowledgeable on TJs and decently knowledgeable on the JK platform but stuff still confuses me and I’m still learning about suspension/ geometry and plenty of other things, that I know I’ll be asking questions about…

My plans and parts:
Eventually down the road 37s.. For a good long while 35’s, while I’m building it up properly for 37s (last jeep I jumped into those without proper mods and it sucked)

I have a JK Dana 30/44 that I’ve acquired and put in ARB air lockers, chromoly shafts, came with Rare Parts ball joints and installed gearing to 4.56 ratio. I have a 32RH transmission (3 speed) also on my parts shelf I have:
•The JK2TJ Artec truss kit (will be modifying)
•3” OD .250 DOM to outersleeve the front axle tubes so I can turn the C’s (need to figure out pinion and caster angles later)
•Artec outboard shock tower brackets
•Reid racing knuckles
•RPM steering tierod and drag link kit
•some other small stuff (compressor, etc)

I am currently planning on changing the lift I have to a Savvy mid arm or Barnes 4wd long arm lift 3/4 link (I know some of the drawbacks of long arms but appreciate any input towards the right direction of suspension)

I was leaning towards the long arm as it comes with a new belly on that’s raised 1.5” over stock and flat and everything seems to go together easily.

I need help with the suspension and what route to go honestly from more experienced TJ owners

Other mods and parts to get will include:
•front and rear driveshafts
•shocks
•new springs (4” lift, current RC ones are worn)
•body lift? (Not sure if I absolutely need it but if I do will go with the Artec weld on body mounts with 1.25 lift or so)
•custom made corner/fender armor and fenders
•DIay parts to make a trackbar (front and possibly rear)
•wheels/tires for the JK axles (probably going stock wheels for now while I save for beadlocks)
•plenty of other very expensive mods I’ll be saving for (gas tank, atlas, etc)

As for now though I want to figure out the suspension system to get so I can start shaving these axles down and setting up everything at one time so I don’t have to do much re-work. All input is appreciated as I’m trying to learn and build.

I also so that Mr.Blaine had posted in another thread about a calculator for tubes and their strengths but I can’t find that thread any longer. Will the outer sleeve of the Dana 30 make it much stronger than factory or just a little bit of at all?

Please bear with me as I’m trying to learn and I ask dumb questions. I will try to head all advice given but I know some things are just personal preference/opinion and that those vary widely.

Ask any questions or you want and I’ll respond as I can. I know there is a lot of missing information from this post that will be helpful but it’s already pretty long.

Thank you and happy building/wheeling!
 
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Thanks! Trying to figure out what route currently for the suspension so I can get it ordered and start the actual build haha. Will also hopefully be doing small mods along the way as they come up.
I like your new toast avatar :cool:
 
Some other things now that I’ve been thinking about it..

I also have Artec front spring buckets and rear spring correction buckets to weld in once I start this build. I know that once it’s all in I’ll need to measure for driveshafts and cycle and measure for shocks. But that’s a ways off.

Any input would be greatly appreciated on either the Savvy mid arm, Rokmen mid arm
Or the Barnes 4wd Long arm.

I am leaning towards the long arm although I know it’s not very popular around these parts… but I like that it seems easy to place/install, gets me a a new belly pan with more clearance..

Although I could go with the UCF and lo-pro mount or some other brand as well. I’m just unsure about adding a MML and Body lift. (Currently has none) I’ve just never installed one and don’t want to get my weight up too high (~1” may not be much though to worry about? But it seems like most skids for transfer case and fuel tank require a body/MML to work…)

My transfer case has already been swapped to a cable shifter and has a SYE kit on it I think from Teraflex…
 
Some other things now that I’ve been thinking about it..

I also have Artec front spring buckets and rear spring correction buckets to weld in once I start this build. I know that once it’s all in I’ll need to measure for driveshafts and cycle and measure for shocks. But that’s a ways off.

Any input would be greatly appreciated on either the Savvy mid arm, Rokmen mid arm
Or the Barnes 4wd Long arm.

I am leaning towards the long arm although I know it’s not very popular around these parts… but I like that it seems easy to place/install, gets me a a new belly pan with more clearance..

Although I could go with the UCF and lo-pro mount or some other brand as well. I’m just unsure about adding a MML and Body lift. (Currently has none) I’ve just never installed one and don’t want to get my weight up too high (~1” may not be much though to worry about? But it seems like most skids for transfer case and fuel tank require a body/MML to work…)

My transfer case has already been swapped to a cable shifter and has a SYE kit on it I think from Teraflex…
1-1.25" BL is a non issue, and neither is the 1" MML, both are beneficial with virtually no drawbacks.
 

I have the M.O.R.E. MML and I've been very happy with it although I've heard the best and most vibration free method (also cheapest) is to just get the 1" motor mount lift blocks and maybe some new, factory style motor mounts if yours are looking worn.
https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-mmltj/
 
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Ok. Artec body lift mounts and additional pucks for the other mounts as well as M.O.R.E 1” bomb proof MML is on order. Now I absolutely need to figure out which suspension route I’m going to go very soon so I can order that.
 
Ok. Artec body lift mounts and additional pucks for the other mounts as well as M.O.R.E 1” bomb proof MML is on order. Now I absolutely need to figure out which suspension route I’m going to go very soon so I can order that.
I just realized the links you posted were correct and I wasn't reading anything right. That'll teach me lol

for some reason I thought the second link was something else, sounds like you've got a great plan (y)
 
I just realized the links you posted were correct and I wasn't reading anything right. That'll teach me lol

for some reason I thought the second link was something else, sounds like you've got a great plan (y)
Yeah. Wish I had some input on the Barnes 4wd lift. It seems like a great setup and easy to install as everything lines up off of the supplied brackets but I want to lean towards the Savvy mid arm, however I’ve heard it can be challenging to install correctly…
 
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I think I’ve decided on either the Barnes 4WD DIY 3/4 link long arm kit or the 4” Currie lift… really really torn here. Much research and collaboration needed I guess before I pull the trigger on one of them.
 
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Pulled the trigger on the RockJock (Currie) 4” SA lift kit. Maaaybe In The future with a stretch I’ll rework the suspension but I figured I’d go with something that seems pretty universally loved and tested.

Now I need to order parts for a tummy tuck. Should just be a plate at this point with everything else I have to install unless I need a new crossmember? But I have a shifter cable instead of the factory linkage, I have new mounts and everything else axle wise in the axle swap stuff. Might need a new frame side trackbar bracket?

Also last night I got the axles unloaded out of the truck bed.. not a fun job to do alone. Don’t mind the messy shop, currently shuffling things around, cleaning and reorganizing..
 
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D6C11949-C2A1-40FF-95CC-838AA5D1FA50.jpeg
 
Spent the day again cleaning and organizing the shop while I wait for parts to slowly (very slowly due to current world economics and shipping) start trickling in… also today I ordered an engine/ transmission skid and transfer case skid from UCF and a universal crossmember kit from Genright. I’m going to do what I have to do to get them to work together. I want the skid separated from the transfercase if at all possible.

The UCF transfercase skid is the 1/4” thick steel option. Now I just need to order trackbar materials to build my own and trackbar gram and axle side brackets and materials. Then I’m all set once everything shows up to start the build minus wheels/tires and shocks…

Unsure of what brand and make shocks I want to use. Kings would be nice but $$$$

Any recommendations on shock brands Teraflex, fox, bilstein, OME, etc??
 
Unsure of what brand and make shocks I want to use. Kings would be nice but $$$$

Any recommendations on shock brands Teraflex, fox, bilstein, OME, etc??
the go to around here is the Rancho RS5000X, you can't beat them for the price, if you have money to spend some Fox shocks would be nice ONLY if they are tuned right
 
the go to around here is the Rancho RS5000X, you can't beat them for the price, if you have money to spend some Fox shocks would be nice ONLY if they are tuned right
By “tuned” do you mean shocks with adjustable valving or simply shock location and compressed/uncompressed lengths being correct? Sorry for a probably dumb question but just trying to clear it up..
 
Pulled the trigger on the RockJock (Currie) 4” SA lift kit. Maaaybe In The future with a stretch I’ll rework the suspension but I figured I’d go with something that seems pretty universally loved and tested.

Now I need to order parts for a tummy tuck. Should just be a plate at this point with everything else I have to install unless I need a new crossmember? But I have a shifter cable instead of the factory linkage, I have new mounts and everything else axle wise in the axle swap stuff. Might need a new frame side trackbar bracket?

Also last night I got the axles unloaded out of the truck bed.. not a fun job to do alone. Don’t mind the messy shop, currently shuffling things around, cleaning and reorganizing..

What drove the decision to go with the Currie SA kit instead of the Barnes LA kit?