Metalcloak vs Currie / Savvy control arms

I'm guessing if the drilled bolt wasn't in a JJ that had the hole for grease, it would just squirt out around the bolt. But down the road who would know which JJ took grease by the bolt vs the zerk on the joint itself.

Maybe that confusion has been solved by now.
 
Ok, so I was poking around the rancho website, they are now using what they call their D2 busing, is it just a Girro Joint, metal cloak, or a DDB? if so it maybe an option for some...who want this style of joint...
 
Ok, so I was poking around the rancho website, they are now using what they call their D2 busing, is it just a Girro Joint, metal cloak, or a DDB? if so it maybe an option for some...who want this style of joint...

I saw the Rancho offering a few months ago, but for me the Clayton Giiro was new. From what I can tell, I believe the Rancho D2, Clayton Giiro, and the Synergy DDB are all the same thing. Old man Emu also offers a similar bushing in their JK arms and Mopar uses a dual durometer bushing in their 2" lift for the JL. I do not know if they are made by the same manufacturer, or if they are all just using a similar concept of dual durometer bushings. This is different than the Metal Cloak bushings.

Metal Cloak bushings use only a single durometer of 'rubber' for isolation. (Although only 1 of the synergy's dual durometers is used for isolation too.) Metal Cloak is kind of like a Clevite bushing that has simply detached from the outside shell of the housing so it can spin freely in the housing. The dual durometer bushings are similar, but instead of spinning inside the housing, they are pressed firmly into the housing and spin around the bolt sleeve.

The MetalCloak requires a layer of grease to be applied to the outside of the bushing. The DDB on the other hand uses a layer of Teflon around the sleeve so that it is maintenance free.

The Metal Cloak can be taken apart to be serviced, re-greased and rebuilt. It is similar to the JJ in this regard. The DDB is not rebuildable, but requires a new bushing to be pressed in if service is required. It is similar to Clevite in this regard.

So they are similar and yet they are different. To my eyes, it seems like the Metal Cloak engineers looked at the JJ and tried to make it softer and more maintenance free. The DDB engineers appear to have started with the Clevite bushing and tried to make it flex more and improved longevity. So coming from two different directions they both ended up somewhere between a JJ and a Clevite bushing.

As you pointed out, we are starting to see a lot of companies moving to a DDB type of bushing. I suspect they are all made by the same manufacturer or at least under license by the same patent holder. They all look very similar. The MC Duroflex is unique to MetalCloak.

I expect that within 5 years you won't see Clevite used at all in aftermarket arms. Everyone will be using a DDB type of bushing. In 10 years from now when Jeep releases the next Wrangler it will likely have a DDB type of bushing as well if they prove to hold up as advertised.
 
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The rancho website sucks, I will call them today to get specs for their joints, or at least the thread sizes. I will try to find out where or who makes the joint, many companies relabel their products. Thanks Fargo for the info. I wish I could get a sample of each to compare myself, but not really worth the cost if the questions can be answered with a phone call. Blaine is the only one on here who is testing the DDB's on his wife's jeep. I hope the results are positive, long term. Maybe I need to start looking at the JL websites to see if there are any comments there since they should now be using them OEM from what I read. Tim
 
The rancho website sucks, I will call them today to get specs for their joints, or at least the thread sizes. I will try to find out where or who makes the joint, many companies relabel their products. Thanks Fargo for the info. I wish I could get a sample of each to compare myself, but not really worth the cost if the questions can be answered with a phone call. Blaine is the only one on here who is testing the DDB's on his wife's jeep. I hope the results are positive, long term. Maybe I need to start looking at the JL websites to see if there are any comments there since they should now be using them OEM from what I read. Tim

I'm not sure if you will hear much from Mr Blaines reviews of the DDB on his test mule. From what I understand he was pleased with the initial performance and quality. But he does not run the vehicle hard offroad. So you won't likely get a report about failure or flex capability. But who knows. He might just decide to put them on something to really go and abuse them. I too wait to see how they work out for him.

I agree about Ranchos website. Keep us informed with what you find. The thread about control arms and NVH might be a good thread to put that in as well.

About the JL. Did you read somewhere else that they are using DDB on the JL? I hope I didn't mislead you. I was speculating that the next Wrangler AFTER the JL might have them as OEM. I think the JL still uses Clevite.

However, I know that Quadratech stated in their review of the Mapor 2" lfit that Mopar uses a DDB on the control arms in that kit. That is the only place I am aware of a DDB on the JL.

Let me know if you see something different about the JL. I have a friend with a Rubi JL. When we looked under the Jeep, I thought the bushings looked like Clevite, but if you find out they use a DDB somewhere on the stock Rubi, I'm sure my friend would be happy to pull them off for me to get a better look.
 
There is a video on one of the forums about the new JL having a dual durometer bushing in the OEM suspension. I really dont need a review from offroading as much as from someones daily driver. 100K miles on a set of bushing in all weather would be a good test for longevity IMHO. I know that when I was running a flex joint with a clevite bushing, the clevites would get toasted in 40K miles because all of the forces transferred into the one rubber while the flex joint had almost no wear. Tim
 
There is a video on one of the forums about the new JL having a dual durometer bushing in the OEM suspension. ...

Now I'll have to crawl under my friends JL again and look closer. Unfortunately he lives 3 hours away. So it might be a few weeks. If I find anything to confirm that, you can be sure I will be posting it on the forum somewhere.
 
The rancho website sucks, I will call them today to get specs for their joints, or at least the thread sizes...
Rancho RS881017 LCA bushing stud is 1"-14 RH, like the CE-9113F on Currie's CE-9106 LCA . The Synergy 4800-01 on LCA 8153 has a 1.25" stud, 12 LH.
...when I was running a flex joint with a clevite bushing, the clevites would get toasted in 40K miles because all of the forces transferred into the one rubber...
I'm not discounting your experience, but my observations are different. The solid bushing is relieved of most of its torsion loads, so in my opinion it is less stressed. I don't know if the flex joint you had could twist a full 30 degrees like a JJ. That amount of articulation allows a lot of flex.
 
I just called Rancho, they are working on getting me the data...

Fargo, Just go to a dealer and look? I would no know what to look for myself.
 
Rancho RS881017 LCA bushing stud is 1"-14 RH, like the CE-9113F on Currie's CE-9106 LCA . The Synergy 4800-01 on LCA 8153 has a 1.25" stud, 12 LH.

I'm not discounting your experience, but my observations are different. The solid bushing is relieved of most of its torsion loads, so in my opinion it is less stressed. I don't know if the flex joint you had could twist a full 30 degrees like a JJ. That amount of articulation allows a lot of flex.
Where did you get that info? and the flex joint was on my wifes old daily driver so no articulation perse.
 
Rancho RS881017 LCA bushing stud is 1"-14 RH, like the CE-9113F on Currie's CE-9106 LCA . The Synergy 4800-01 on LCA 8153 has a 1.25" stud, 12 LH.

Does anyone know what the studs are on the Savvy aluminum control arms? It would be cool if you could swap out the JJ on each end with a DDB stud.
 
Fargo, Just go to a dealer and look? I would no know what to look for myself.

Its -5 degrees outside at 11:30am. I'm not feeling to excited to crawl under a Jeep. :) I'll wait until I get to his place with a garage. Or when it warms up.

We did look at his before right after he purchased the Jeep. I was pretty sure they looked like Clevite. Unless the upper joints are DDB or we missed something. So I think its going to take an extensive look and maybe pull one off to see. Thats why I said I would check it out next time I'm out there.
 
I'm not sure if you will hear much from Mr Blaines reviews of the DDB on his test mule. From what I understand he was pleased with the initial performance and quality. But he does not run the vehicle hard offroad. So you won't likely get a report about failure or flex capability. But who knows. He might just decide to put them on something to really go and abuse them. I too wait to see how they work out for him.

I agree about Ranchos website. Keep us informed with what you find. The thread about control arms and NVH might be a good thread to put that in as well.

About the JL. Did you read somewhere else that they are using DDB on the JL? I hope I didn't mislead you. I was speculating that the next Wrangler AFTER the JL might have them as OEM. I think the JL still uses Clevite.

However, I know that Quadratech stated in their review of the Mapor 2" lfit that Mopar uses a DDB on the control arms in that kit. That is the only place I am aware of a DDB on the JL.

Let me know if you see something different about the JL. I have a friend with a Rubi JL. When we looked under the Jeep, I thought the bushings looked like Clevite, but if you find out they use a DDB somewhere on the stock Rubi, I'm sure my friend would be happy to pull them off for me to get a better look.
I have been running DDB in my front lowers now for two winters. They will get the real test this summer in some nasty swamp water. Next to salt water it is quite nasty. It is alkaline so it works slower than salt but the results are similar.
 
Ok, here it is from Rancho:
Per our conversation last week, I’ve listed the dimensions and specs of the end link part numbers we’ve discussed.





RS881018 – 1-14 thread, 3.25” thread length, ID. .402” X 1.994” wide.


RS881017 – 1-14 thread, 3.25” thread length, ID. .571” X 2.612” wide.


RS881016 – 1-14 thread, 3.25” thread length, ID. .571” X 2.320” wide.


RS881014 – 1-14 thread, 3.25” thread length, ID. .571” X 2.612” wide.


RS881013 – 1-14 thread, 3.25” thread length, ID. .480” X 1.994” wide.


RS881009 – 7/8-14 thread, 2.875: thread length, ID. .571” X 1.592” wide.