Minimal Frame Surface Rust

[Y2K Heep]

I’ve read through a lot of the “frame rust” threads but wanted thoughts on LIGHT surface rust/future prevention (I want to emphasize the LIGHT because I grew up in a rust belt state and used to roll my eyes when some Cali bro showed up on the forums posting a 1/16th inch dot of rust. Now I’m being that guy)

My 2000 spent the first 10ish years of its life in Santa Cruz CA, then from there Sacramento and on to Austin. It’s never lived in a rust state, but being near the ocean for 1/2 it’s life there are some portions on the frame that have LIGHT surface rust (the door handles did as well but just remedied that).

I don’t want to make a problem out of nothing or be paranoid, but curious to thoughts. Do you guys in the salt-free states do any preventive frame maintenance for your frame or is it a non issue? Do all TJs have some surface rust? Pics...

 

[Chris]

Mine doesn't have any surface rust, so not all of them do. Just depends on who owned it, where they parked, it where they lived, etc.

That's not hard to fix. Get the wire wheel out and spend a day or two getting all of the rust off. Paint over it, and you're good to go. It's really easy to take care of stuff like that.

 

[tomtaylz]

Mine doesn't have any surface rust, so not all of them do. Just depends on who owned it, where they parked, it where they lived, etc.

That's not hard to fix. Get the wire wheel out and spend a day or two getting all of the rust off. Paint over it, and you're good to go. It's really easy to take care of stuff like that.

X2 if you want to use something fancy you can use a product like zero rust (comes in a spray) after taking off the rust with a wire wheel to put a layer of protection, although probably not a concern for where you live.

 

[bromel]

As a rust-belter forever waging the losing battle against rust, I'm jealous. I'd just wire wheel the seasoned areas and use POR15 to prevent it coming back. You don't want to lather on a rubberized undercoat only to see the rust bubble back a few months later. It takes a lot of prep work, but you have such minor rust that it wouldn't be a big job at all.

I'd be more concerned about drilling drain holes, to be honest. I've seen TJ frames even from ostensibly salt-free states that are not in great shape because water and mud pooled in the frame rails and rotted them from the inside out.

 

[Westtown Willy]

from your description chances are good that it's all fine, but that has more ‘surface rust’ than my lifetime New Jersey Rustbelt frame & as minimal as it looks there’s enough there that would give me concern about what the inside looks like which is often worse, sometimes much worse. I’d start by simply looking in all the larger holes & feeling around as far as you can reach to identify any scaling, chips, flakes or chunks. If it’s all clean & smooth & still has the factory black finish you’re probably good to go but if not that will warrant further investigation & treatment

 

[Y2K Heep]

Thanks guys. I just took a peak at the inner frame from the access points and it looks like it's in good shape and smooth. I'm thinking I will add the drain holes and do the Eastwood product on the inner frame just to be safe.

POR15 seems like a solid choice, but a friend of mine said if it's not actually going on rust he's had issues with it not adhering.

When I install the new springs/shocks in a few weeks I'll use the time while it's torn down to give the frame some cleanup & love.

 

[Chris]

POR15 seems like a solid choice, but a friend of mine said if it's not actually going on rust he's had issues with it not adhering.

Not my experience with POR15. Not only does that stuff go on, it friggin' stays on. I don't think I've ever found anything so durable! You can hit it with a hammer (literally, I tried) and it won't chip off.

I did follow their instructions to the T though, and I used their 3-step process to prep and clean the surface.

 

[bromel]

Thanks guys. I just took a peak at the inner frame from the access points and it looks like it's in good shape and smooth. I'm thinking I will add the drain holes and do the Eastwood product on the inner frame just to be safe.

POR15 seems like a solid choice, but a friend of mine said if it's not actually going on rust he's had issues with it not adhering.

When I install the new springs/shocks in a few weeks I'll use the time while it's torn down to give the frame some cleanup & love.

The POR15 won't adhere well to non-rusted metal unless you've prepped it properly. Check out the POR15 three-step kit. After you degrease the surface, you need to use the "metal prep" solution, which pits the metal surfaces and makes them ready for POR15 whether or not it's rusted.

 

[skrelnik]

Thanks guys. I just took a peak at the inner frame from the access points and it looks like it's in good shape and smooth. I'm thinking I will add the drain holes and do the Eastwood product on the inner frame just to be safe.

POR15 seems like a solid choice, but a friend of mine said if it's not actually going on rust he's had issues with it not adhering.

When I install the new springs/shocks in a few weeks I'll use the time while it's torn down to give the frame some cleanup & love.

When I installed my steering components I used this VHT chassis paint. I am in Connecticut and it has held up well. VHT also has a rust converter paint, second link.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint

http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-rust-convertor

 

[TJ2]

I’ve read through a lot of the “frame rust” threads but wanted thoughts on LIGHT surface rust/future prevention (I want to emphasize the LIGHT because I grew up in a rust belt state and used to roll my eyes when some Cali bro showed up on the forums posting a 1/16th inch dot of rust. Now I’m being that guy)

My 2000 spent the first 10ish years of its life in Santa Cruz CA, then from there Sacramento and on to Austin. It’s never lived in a rust state, but being near the ocean for 1/2 it’s life there are some portions on the frame that have LIGHT surface rust (the door handles did as well but just remedied that).

I don’t want to make a problem out of nothing or be paranoid, but curious to thoughts. Do you guys in the salt-free states do any preventive frame maintenance for your frame or is it a non issue? Do all TJs have some surface rust? Pics...

View attachment 64431

View attachment 64432

View attachment 64433

Some Chicagoans probably is saying "I want your rusts".
In seriousness, I would degrease that frame and spray it with a Rustoleum Rust Converter spray can, then Fluid film the heck out of it there after.

 

[TJ2]

The POR15 won't adhere well to non-rusted metal unless you've prepped it properly. Check out the POR15 three-step kit. After you degrease the surface, you need to use the "metal prep" solution, which pits the metal surfaces and makes them ready for POR15 whether or not it's rusted.

x2. If you plan to use a POR-15 buy the POR-15 prep spray bottle. That prep will etch the old paint and will help the POR stick to existing paints.

 

[Smokngun]

With this amount of rust do you need to wire brush it or can you just put something like corroseal on it, paint it and call it a day?

 

[Smokngun]

Anyone? I have a similiar situation as the surface rust pictured above on another vehicle. Would you need to go to the wire wheel for that amount or can it be solved with corroseal and a little paint?

 

[TJ2]

Anyone? I have a similiar situation as the surface rust pictured above on another vehicle. Would you need to go to the wire wheel for that amount or can it be solved with corroseal and a little paint?

POR-15 3 Steps. That's all you need. Rustoleum is also okay but I prefer the POR-15.