Taking care of frame rust

I hear ya. I have some very minor rust issues as well so I've been using the POR15 also. It's held up quite nicely!
 
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There were some scrapes and nicks from rocks that will eventually rust so I decided to do the entire bottom of the frame from CA mount to CA mount. Even though it's under the Jeep, I still want it to look somewhat decent so I taped it off before applying the first coat. The rest of the frame is virtually rust free.
 
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First coat is on, and it was very easy to use. That little 4oz can from the starter kit is way more than enough.
 
Serbonze said:
First coat is on, and it was very easy to use. That little 4oz can from the starter kit is way more than enough.
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It is indeed enough for most cases. Unless you were doing your entire frame you wouldn't need much more.
 
I don't want to muck up the sticky SYE thread with too much personal stuff, so I'll post this here. :D

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I purchased the entire kit (Advanced Adapters SYE and driveshaft) from Adam's Driveshaft.
 
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Nice, I'm in the process of purchasing a new driveshaft myself, this whole measuring thing is just driving me fucking nuts because I'm not exactly sure what all measurements I need to take and where to measure from.
 
Chris said:
Nice, I'm in the process of purchasing a new driveshaft myself, this whole measuring thing is just driving me fucking nuts because I'm not exactly sure what all measurements I need to take and where to measure from.
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I get it, I was there. I read the post about your conversation with Tom Woods. If you have not already worked out a deal with him for a discount for a review or anything, check out Adams. Most manufacturers have enough experience that you can tell them your vehicle, lift, rear diff, and if you have anything extra going on like heavy armor, etc and they can make you a driveshaft without having to take any measurements. Jerry stated the same thing about Tom Woods in a thread that I started on WF. All of these guys sell enough driveshafts that by now they know what they are doing.
 
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Serbonze said:
I get it, I was there. I read the post about your conversation with Tom Woods. If you have not already worked out a deal with him for a discount for a review or anything, check out Adams. Most manufacturers have enough experience that you can tell them your vehicle, lift, rear diff, and if you have anything extra going on like heavy armor, etc and they can make you a driveshaft without having to take any measurements. Jerry stated the same thing about Tom Woods in a thread that I started on WF. All of these guys sell enough driveshafts that by now they know what they are doing.
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I figured that was the case. By now he's probably done so many driveshafts that I realistically shouldn't have to measure a single thing. I'm going to give him a buzz today and see what he says.
 
Quick update regarding my earlier post about the transmission not moving after I removed the skid plate.

Since that post I've removed the transfer case drop and installed a SYE. Yesterday I had to drop the skid again, and the transmission absolutely dropped down and is resting on the jack stand.

So what I didn't do was connect the dots in the first post. The transmission was already 1 5/8" lower because of the drop so there really wasn't anymore for it to drop once I removed the skid plate. Kind of a *duh* moment yesterday.
 
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Serbonze said:
Quick update regarding my earlier post about the transmission not moving after I removed the skid plate.

Since that post I've removed the transfer case drop and installed a SYE. Yesterday I had to drop the skid again, and the transmission absolutely dropped down and is resting on the jack stand.

So what I didn't do was connect the dots in the first post. The transmission was already 1 5/8" lower because of the drop so there really wasn't anymore for it to drop once I removed the skid plate. Kind of a *duh* moment yesterday.
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Haha! This is one of those Occham's Razor moments. Happens to be all the time!
 
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