MiRustyjeep

[Mike_H]

Got some Chassis Saver on the rear axle tonight...this is the first coat. Hopefully it dries enough to get my second coat on tonight yet. This was a much bigger pain that the front axle to get cleaned up. There was more rust and the brackets are welded on closer together. Harder to get into the tight spaces.

 

[Mike_H]

Well, today was one of those days when you question your resolve, and wonder what the eff you're doing. I got the rear cross member (where the shocks mount) cleaned up and sprayed down with rust reformer. Both wheel wells and the frame are cleaned up and ready for paint.

Thought I'd tackle the sheet metal work that needed fixing...refresher pic

I basically had to cut it back to where the floor changes height between the front and rear seat. Here is a pic of all the nasty metal cut out.

So, I had to pull my rocker guard...this is what caused my grief...

And even better...big hole in the torque box...here it is cut out.

The body mounts are still solid, and most of the box is solid. Floors are still good too, so it's fixable...but it's a bummer. I thought my jeep was better than this.

My uncle runs a Fab shop, so I'm going to design up some new rockers (out of aluminum) and cut the rust out. I'll seal it up, fix the two holes I've cut open, and deal with it. Thankfully, he's been welding longer than I've been alive too, so I'll get him to give me a couple lessons.

I guess I'm going to be figuring out how to mount a CJ-7 body on a TJ frame more quickly than I thought though. Not sure how long this tub is going to stay "decent" This thing is as much a beach cruiser as it is something for me to bomb around in the woods with. I want it to look good AND perform good. That means no visible rust...So, we'll see.

 

[JMT]

Man, I’m finally caught up on your thread. You’ve got a lot done. Tough work but fantastic job! You’re going to have so much sweat sunk into that thing you’ll never sell it. It just keeps getting deeper the deeper you go. I really hope there’s a good ending to this, just like I hope there’s a good ending to @bobthetj03 s vibration issue.

 

[bobthetj03]

Holy rust bucket Batman! Minor setback, right? You'll get it fixed up. @JMT, @Rob5589 went for a ride in my Jeep Saturday, and he doesn't think it's the rear end at all, so I'm back to the drive shafts and the frequency theory. Hope your re-gear goes without issue brah.

 

[JMT]

Holy rust bucket Batman! Minor setback, right? You'll get it fixed up. @JMT, @Rob5589 went for a ride in my Jeep Saturday, and he doesn't think it's the rear end at all, so I'm back to the drive shafts and the frequency theory. Hope your re-gear goes without issue brah.

Hmm...that's interesting. Good to have a pro like @Rob5589 put in his more than .02cents on the issue. I hope mine goes well too. I'm still looking for a shop I'm confident will do it right and reasonable. Everyone wants an arm and a leg for it. I met a guy we ran with on Saturday who set his rear up as a spool, and he'd like to trailer it, but he drives it to the trails for now. He says it doesn't track bad.

I won't hijack your thread anymore @Ranger_b0b.

 

[James Kitt]

The Rust war is a long fought one that seems to never have a certain end. Sandpaper, Wire brushes, Chassis Saver and frequent cleanings are our only main weapons but its doable. I have got to the point where If its exposed and going to be black, its going to be chassis savered and then clear coated (except body paint of course). Keep up the battle!

 

[Chris]

Wow, just wow... that thing has some serious rust, huh? Still @Ranger_b0b, I'm impressed that you're going through the effort of fixing it up and "restoring" it so to speak. There will be one more TJ on the road because of you (I actually wonder how many are still on the road versus wrecked and in junk yards). Keep up the good work. You're much braver than I am, because if it has rust, I won't even touch it.

 

[Mike_H]

Wow, just wow... that thing has some serious rust, huh? Still @Ranger_b0b, I'm impressed that you're going through the effort of fixing it up and "restoring" it so to speak. There will be one more TJ on the road because of you (I actually wonder how many are still on the road versus wrecked and in junk yards). Keep up the good work. You're much braver than I am, because if it has rust, I won't even touch it.

I don't have much of a choice, living where I do. Rust is a way of life here. I'm just a bit disappointed...I really thought I had done my due diligence and gotten one that wasn't "too" bad. The important spots are good, but some of the less important spots are REALLY, REALLY bad!

 

[Chris]

I don't have much of a choice, living where I do. Rust is a way of life here. I'm just a bit disappointed...I really thought I had done my due diligence and gotten one that wasn't "too" bad. The important spots are good, but some of the less important spots are REALLY, REALLY bad!

I guess it just goes to show that you never know what's hiding underneath in the areas you can't see.

If you were to have a vehicle there in Michigan and never drive it in the Winter or rain, would it still rust?

 

[Mike_H]

I guess it just goes to show that you never know what's hiding underneath in the areas you can't see.

If you were to have a vehicle there in Michigan and never drive it in the Winter or rain, would it still rust?

Rain isn't a problem here any more than it would be there. Its the winter, more specifically the salt. I know guys with sports cars, corvettes and such, that are rust free. They are not driven in winter.

 

[Chris]

Rain isn't a problem here any more than it would be there. Its the winter, more specifically the salt. I know guys with sports cars, corvettes and such, that are rust free. They are not driven in winter.

So basically you'd have to not drive it in the Winter at all... makes sense. But I suppose that's a shame to have an off-road vehicle like the Wrangler and not get to drive it in the snow!

 

[Mike_H]

So basically you'd have to not drive it in the Winter at all... makes sense. But I suppose that's a shame to have an off-road vehicle like the Wrangler and not get to drive it in the snow!

Meh..driving in snow is overrated. When you do it 3 months a year, for 24 years (and counting) it gets old. I'll take my F150 with heated seats, remote start, 4x4, and e locker any day vs the wrangler

 

[Chris]

Meh..driving in snow is overrated. When you do it 3 months a year, for 24 years (and counting) it gets old. I'll take my F150 with heated seats, remote start, 4x4, and e locker any day vs the wrangler

Maybe you ought to not drive the Wrangler in the Winter at all. Then you can cut down on that rust!

 

[Mike_H]

Maybe you ought to not drive the Wrangler in the Winter at all. Then you can cut down on that rust!

That is the plan. ..3 season fun mobile

 

[Chris]

That is the plan. ..3 season fun mobile

Makes you wonder though if it wasn't a better idea to just buy one from out of state that was rust free and then just keeping it in your garage during winter. Or maybe you just like the idea of a project? I get that.

 

[Mike_H]

Makes you wonder though if it wasn't a better idea to just buy one from out of state that was rust free and then just keeping it in your garage during winter. Or maybe you just like the idea of a project? I get that.

Thanks captain obvious. It would have been much better to go south. I did, in fact, go out of state, to Indiana. I didn't go far enough....I do like projects, but I was hoping my project would be more cool stuff like armor, lifts, electronics, etc. Not rust repair. But, it is what it is, and I'll get it done. My uncle is coming by tomorrow evening to give me some pointers and help with a flight plan, if you will. He has been a fabricator longer than I've been alive, and he fixed up a YJ last winter. Basically did the same thing I am. He'll hook me up with material, access to a brake, and most importantly, knowledge!

 

[Chris]

Thanks captain obvious. It would have been much better to go south. I did, in fact, go out of state, to Indiana. I didn't go far enough....I do like projects, but I was hoping my project would be more cool stuff like armor, lifts, electronics, etc. Not rust repair. But, it is what it is, and I'll get it done. My uncle is coming by tomorrow evening to give me some pointers and help with a flight plan, if you will. He has been a fabricator liner than I've been alive, and he fixed up a YJ last winter. Basically did the same thing I am. He'll hook me up with material, access to a brake, and most importantly, knowledge!

Some extra help is always nice, especially when it's knowledgeable help.

I wasn't sure though. Some guys want to buy a complete rust bucket because they enjoy full restorations. I'm the opposite, I'd rather spend my time doing other stuff like bumpers, lifts, etc. But you're right, what can you do now? Besides, I enjoy watching an otherwise forgotten TJ get a new lease on life!

 

[Mike_H]

Tonight, My uncle came over and surveyed the damage with me. He is going to make me a new rocker out of some 16 gage. Basically its a flat sheet of steel with a small brake at the end. He has some left over steel from when he did his...its the stuff that they make body panels out of originally, complete with the galvanizing. I'll start grinding on mine, look for all the spot welds, and see if I can get the rocker separated from the floorboards. Cut the nasty out, scribe a nice line to cut the new panel in, and stitch weld it back together. I'm REALLY leaning hard toward ordering up the Savvy Rock sliders...Or designing my own similar slider out of aluminum.

We also pulled the tread plate off the driver's side and thankfully, its in good shape. Just wire wheel and seal it back up. Not too terrible, considering.

I also got one of my torque box patches tacked in tonight. I'll just keep picking away at this until its done.

Oh, how about some pictures of fresh paint and no rust! Rear Wheel Wells are done.

 

[JamesAndTheSahara]

Tonight, My uncle came over and surveyed the damage with me. He is going to make me a new rocker out of some 16 gage. Basically its a flat sheet of steel with a small brake at the end. He has some left over steel from when he did his...its the stuff that they make body panels out of originally, complete with the galvanizing. I'll start grinding on mine, look for all the spot welds, and see if I can get the rocker separated from the floorboards. Cut the nasty out, scribe a nice line to cut the new panel in, and stitch weld it back together. I'm REALLY leaning hard toward ordering up the Savvy Rock sliders...Or designing my own similar slider out of aluminum.

We also pulled the tread plate off the driver's side and thankfully, its in good shape. Just wire wheel and seal it back up. Not too terrible, considering.

View attachment 33334

I also got one of my torque box patches tacked in tonight. I'll just keep picking away at this until its done.

View attachment 33335

View attachment 33336

Oh, how about some pictures of fresh paint and no rust! Rear Wheel Wells are done.

View attachment 33337

If you do go with the savvy rockers, order some extra nutserts from Astro. Savvy provides enough to secure both the rocker & step to the tub, but if you ever want to remove just the step you need to remove the whole thing (A pita!!). After doing that once, I took Blaine's advice of nutserting the aluminum panel so they step installs & removes easier. Again of all the Savvy products I have, my two favorite are the gas tank skid & the rockers .

 

[Mike_H]

If you do go with the savvy rockers, order some extra nutserts from Astro. Savvy provides enough to secure both the rocker & step to the tub, but if you ever want to remove just the step you need to remove the whole thing (A pita!!). After doing that once, I took Blaine's advice of nutserting the aluminum panel so they step installs & removes easier. Again of all the Savvy products I have, my two favorite are the gas tank skid & the rockers .

Wow...really? They have the aluminum tapped so you thread into the Al then to a nutsert? I've read the installation instructions, but not clicking why you'd have to remove the whole slider to change the step.