My shock bolts snapped

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WallyWest

TJ Addict
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Despite soaking them for MONTHS, three snapped. Even better, the fourth looks like someone already worked on it and rounded it off. Tried hammering a 1/2 inch socket on it, no luck.

Debating just taking it in and having a shop work on it. If I drop the tank I guess I might as well replace the fuel pump. Sigh. This is going to be more than a weekend project.
 
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I've also seen people cut access holes on the tub to get at the shock mounts.

If you drop the gas tank, pick up an ATV jack. Makes dropping the tank, especially a full one, a lot easier
 
Haven't tried this method personally but worth a shot. If you have a dremmel the right angle attachment is $20

 
TJ4Jim said:
I was very successful using the air chisel to punch out the old nuts and slipping in new ones with my finger tip without removing the tank..
Click to expand...

And you didn't weld the new nuts in? So, how do get the bolts out now?
 
There are a couple of great write ups here about cutting access holes in the tub. When the time comes to do my rear shocks I plan to do the same. Seems like a few minutes with a dremel would make this process 1000% percent easier.
 
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So, got a set of those bolt-grip sockets, Irwin brand, and was pleasantly surprised. It held onto the rounded off bolt and took the full force of my impact wrench. Bolt still snapped, but I expected that.

I may go the hole in the tub route. Still deciding. The fix I'm going for is cutting the nuts off, getting some shallow 13mm sockets, and welding them up top. So then I can drop the bolts down from above, nuts on the bottom, and replace both whenever necessary.
 
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Ok, I ended up cutting access holes in the tub. This pic, found through image search, gives a good idea where to cut.

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This is for a TJ, I assume the location is different for a LJ.

I used a Dremel and the EZ Lock metal cut off discs. Buy at least two 5 packs, I burned through 7 discs. And bent the shaft of the EZ Lock thing, so I'll have to get another one of those. The 90 degree adapter comes in handy too. Even with a hole like the pic shows you'll have issues getting all around the nut. Mine were just tack welded at two points, but it was kinda random as to where the welds were.

Take a wire brush, the tiny ones for the Dremel work great, and clean up around the nut. I just went for it on the first one and messed it up real good. Cut straight through the whole thing, then realized I was cutting too high because the lumpy weld covered in grime and rust tricked me into thinking the nut was shorter than it really was. Left the bottom of the nut and part of the bolt still in there. Take your time, clean it up, and identify where the welds are so you can plan your cuts. Doing that the rest went much smoother. Get enough cut, use a punch from underneath to knock it sideways, then use a pry bar, big flat head screwdriver, whatever works from above to finish it off. Smooth out the metal around the hole with the Dremel and you're good.

I shelved my welding plans for now, just dropped bolts through, put a wrench on from above and tightened from below. Did this by myself no problem.
 
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You really don't need to cut a hole in the tub. Put the cutoff wheel up through the shock hole and cut the nuts off. Took 30min to do all 4.

Buy the diamond cutoffwheel too. It's ~$20
 
If that worked for you that's great, but there's no way in hell mine would have come out that way. Some of the welds were on the back side of the nut, I would have had to cut all the way through the bolt and the Dremel wheels aren't big enough for that from one side. And mine at least weren't going to budge without those welds being at least halfway cut through.

Worth trying though if you don't want to cut the tub.

I would have tried the diamond wheel but ACE was out of it and I had to get this done today.
 
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