Need a list of front end parts to change out

[JakeQ]

I'm gonna say that I have at least 2.5 inches of lift. The front and rear springs, shocks and the the rear track bar relocation bracket are changed. There is a one and 1/3 inch spacer on top of the front springs. JKS swaybar disconnects. top it off. Everything else is factory. I think I should change all the tie rod ends and ball joints.
I need a list of parts to change out, not just to try and tame this DW, but I want the front end of my TJ to be strong. I have to daily drive this for the next five years and I also want to take it down the trail. Also, I understand changing these ends and joints may not solve the DW alone.

 

[jazngab]

ZJ tie rod upgrade or Currie steering upgrade, ball joints, U joints, wheel bearings are a good start

Edit: also an alignment and tire balance will help

 

[Steel City 06]

A 1/3" spacer is more likely the factory spring isolator.
How much are you willing to invest?
The ZJ upgrade is a very good economical upgrade

 

[JakeQ]

A 1/3" spacer is more likely the factory spring isolator.
How much are you willing to invest?
The ZJ upgrade is a very good economical upgrade

I need to change things until I can safely drive down a 65mph highway, hit a bump or expansion joint, and it no longer DW. Piece by piece until it stops, thats how far I need to go.

 

[derekmac]

What size tires, what air pressure is in them, and when was the last time they were balanced?

 

[JakeQ]

What size tires, what air pressure is in them, and when was the last time they were balanced?

31/10.5 , 29psi dont know but it was totally fine before I added the 1 1/3 spacers to the front springs and unbolted a bunch of the front suspension.

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

So, no DW until you "unbolted a bunch of the front suspension and added 1 1/3 spacers?" Have you gone back through and re-torqued everything? Dry steer test?

And the ZJ upgrade seems to be the ticket. I have plans on doing it this fall, based on it's popularity in this forum.
Good luck.

 

[JakeQ]

So, no DW until you "unbolted a bunch of the front suspension and added 1 1/3 spacers?" Have you gone back through and re-torqued everything? Dry steer test?

And the ZJ upgrade seems to be the ticket. I have plans on doing it this fall, based on it's popularity in this forum.
Good luck.

I would be a total idiot if I came to the forum for help without a proper re torque of all the nuts and bolts I took out. If it helps at all, if I ride the break over the DW initiating bumps it mitigates the effect almost entirely in every case. This leads me to believe its not catastrophic and should be easily tamed.

 

[Marlon1977]

I'm gonna say that I have at least 2.5 inches of lift. The front and rear springs, shocks and the the rear track bar relocation bracket are changed. There is a one and 1/3 inch spacer on top of the front springs. JKS swaybar disconnects. top it off. Everything else is factory. I think I should change all the tie rod ends and ball joints.
I need a list of parts to change out, not just to try and tame this DW, but I want the front end of my TJ to be strong. I have to daily drive this for the next five years and I also want to take it down the trail. Also, I understand changing these ends and joints may not solve the DW alone.

When I got my Jeep a month ago, I felt like the front end was soooo loose that I was afraid to go over 60mph, but I never had any DW. It just had loose steering and wondered all over the road. I ordered the Crown HD steering kit from Amazon, along with uppper and lower control arms. After that, I found I had a bad joint on the track bar, so I replaced that as well. At this point, the thing drove perfect, but of course I HAD to have bigger tires. When I put the 33s on there, which I mounted myself and used balancing beads, I experienced what I would call “mild” DW at certain low speeds. However, I had a tire shop remove the beads and balance the tires and all of that went away and it drives perfect again.

 

[JakeQ]

When I got my Jeep a month ago, I felt like the front end was soooo loose that I was afraid to go over 60mph, but I never had any DW. It just had loose steering and wondered all over the road. I ordered the Crown HD steering kit from Amazon, along with uppper and lower control arms. After that, I found I had a bad joint on the track bar, so I replaced that as well. At this point, the thing drove perfect, but of course I HAD to have bigger tires. When I put the 33s on there, which I mounted myself and used balancing beads, I experienced what I would call “mild” DW at certain low speeds. However, I had a tire shop remove the beads and balance the tires and all of that went away and it drives perfect again.

IDK right now. Literally the only change from no DW to DW is that I took apart some steering components and added the spacers to level the Jeep after a winch install. Put it together, torque'd it and now it DW. All I can figure is that some old bushing finally gave up after being taken out.

 

[pagrey]

I would be a total idiot if I came to the forum for help without a proper re torque of all the nuts and bolts I took out. If it helps at all, if I ride the break over the DW initiating bumps it mitigates the effect almost entirely in every case. This leads me to believe its not catastrophic and should be easily tamed.

Did you read the section on DW? Just replacing everything might fix it, it might not.

There's a reason why it's in the TJ Resources or FAQs

Death Wobble? READ THIS!

 

[JakeQ]

Did you read the section on DW? Just replacing everything might fix it, it might not.

There's a reason why it's in the TJ Resources or FAQs

Death Wobble? READ THIS!

I have it, I need to fix it. Through new parts (its 15 years old) and through adjustable parts (geometry may be shot) alignments ect what have you, I just need to know how to go about doing it. As I've said before, this is my DD for 5 years while I pay for it, I can not have it useless over 50mph, how would I drive it anywhere thats not local... Thanks for pointing me, as you may well know search isn't always helpful on a forum.

 

[InfamousCanadian]

My Jeep used to shake my teeth out when I would drive on the HWY. I took it to one garage to get the tires balanced, but it didn't work. Lived with it for the winter then decided to go to a different shop for an alignment and decided, "for 40 bucks, I'll get them to balance the tires". They did the work and drove the Jeep to work today on the HWY with no shaking whatsoever. For how cheap it is, I would just get the tires rebalanced to start. I eventually want to do the same as you to make the front end stronger, but first I would start eliminating variables to solve your issue.

 

[Marlon1977]

IDK right now. Literally the only change from no DW to DW is that I took apart some steering components and added the spacers to level the Jeep after a winch install. Put it together, torque'd it and now it DW. All I can figure is that some old bushing finally gave up after being taken out.

I’m no expert for sure, but I would probably start with having the tires balanced. At least its a pretty cheap and quick thing to check and can certainly cause your symptoms. If it isn’t that, at least you know you’ll have to dig deeper then.

 

[JakeQ]

My Jeep used to shake my teeth out when I would drive on the HWY. I took it to one garage to get the tires balanced, but it didn't work. Lived with it for the winter then decided to go to a different shop for an alignment and decided, "for 40 bucks, I'll get them to balance the tires". They did the work and drove the Jeep to work today on the HWY with no shaking whatsoever. For how cheap it is, I would just get the tires rebalanced to start. I eventually want to do the same as you to make the front end stronger, but first I would start eliminating variables to solve your issue.

As I've said, the tires are fine, they were fine before the DW and nothing has changed but me unbolting the track bar and putting the original TB back in. Thinking about it more, I'm almost certain its something to do with bad bushings or alignment.

 

[bobthetj03]

Jack the front wheel off the ground just enough to put a pry bar under the tire and lift up and down on the pry bar while inspecting the ball joints for excessive movement. while the wheel is off the ground, grab the tire at the 12 oclock/6 oclock positions and check for play. There should be none. Have a friend help you do the dry steer test to check the tie rods for play. If all that checks out ok, rotate the tires front to back and test drive.

 

[JakeQ]

Jack the front wheel off the ground just enough to put a pry bar under the tire and lift up and down on the pry bar while inspecting the ball joints for excessive movement. while the wheel is off the ground, grab the tire at the 12 oclock/6 oclock positions and check for play. There should be none. Have a friend help you do the dry steer test to check the tie rods for play. If all that checks out ok, rotate the tires front to back and test drive.

I hope its not the ball joints. Thats a headache DIY I'm just not doing. I have no desire to take the axles out and hope that I get that all put back together properly...

 

[bobthetj03]

I hope its not the ball joints. Thats a headache DIY I'm just not doing. I have no desire to take the axles out and hope that I get that all put back together properly...

Well you have to rule them out, and if they need changed, guess you'll be farming that job out to the pros.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

... I think I should change all the tie rod ends and ball joints.
... Also, I understand changing these ends and joints may not solve the DW alone.

I wouldn't change them unless they are proven bad.

I need to change things until I can safely drive down a 65mph highway, hit a bump or expansion joint, and it no longer DW. Piece by piece until it stops, thats how far I need to go.

"Piece by piece" gets you: I wouldn't change anything unless they are proven bad.

31/10.5 , 29psi dont know but it was totally fine before I added the 1 1/3 spacers to the front springs and unbolted a bunch of the front suspension.

And now we find out that the installation of the spacers mentioned in the first sentence of the first post is probably what started the DW.

I would be a total idiot if I came to the forum for help without a proper re torque of all the nuts and bolts I took out. If it helps at all, if I ride the break over the DW initiating bumps it mitigates the effect almost entirely in every case. This leads me to believe its not catastrophic and should be easily tamed.

We all know DaYooperTransplant wasn't calling you an idiot but it wouldn't hurt if you at least DOUBLE checked the torque and did a dry steer test.

Are you sure you have DW? I've never heard of riding the brakes over a bump mitigating any DW.

I have it, I need to fix it.
... I just need to know how to go about doing it.
... Thanks for pointing me, as you may well know search isn't always helpful on a forum.

pagrey might have not got the link about Death Wobble quite right. Try this one: Death Wobble

As I've said, the tires are fine, they were fine before the DW and nothing has changed but me unbolting the track bar and putting the original TB back in. Thinking about it more, I'm almost certain its something to do with bad bushings or alignment.

Tires may have been fine and may still be fine but I'm sure someone has lost a wheel weight while the tire was off.

Is the unbolted track bar and the original TB the same Track Bar?

Bushings typically don't wear out while work is being done but by adding lift to the front end will affect both the toe in and the caster to some degree.

 

[JakeQ]

I wouldn't change them unless they are proven bad.



"Piece by piece" gets you: I wouldn't change anything unless they are proven bad.



And now we find out that the installation of the spacers mentioned in the first sentence of the first post is probably what started the DW.



We all know DaYooperTransplant wasn't calling you an idiot but it wouldn't hurt if you at least DOUBLE checked the torque and did a dry steer test.

Are you sure you have DW? I've never heard of riding the brakes over a bump mitigating any DW.




pagrey might have not got the link about Death Wobble quite right. Try this one: Death Wobble



Tires may have been fine and may still be fine but I'm sure someone has lost a wheel weight while the tire was off.

Is the unbolted track bar and the original TB the same Track Bar?

Bushings typically don't wear out while work is being done but by adding lift the front end will affect both the toe in and the caster to some degree.

15 years and 81k miles, all looks factory. This is the start of my life with this vehicle so why not mildly upgrade a few pieces while getting rid of 15 year old rubber in the steering system? I will replace the three bars that cross the axle with new, better pieces while making the track bar an adjustable piece. Then I will find a shop that can do an alignment on a lifted vehicle and once its all dialed in, if the heavy wheel shimmy thats kicked off over 45mph by bumps over the road isnt fixed it will be time to look at the next factor and try it that at that time.