Need help choosing a HP Dana 30

[Modoc Guy]

So, to start, I'm looking to build a front axle for my '02, 4.0 TJ off the Jeep so I can keep driving it. I have a Rubi complete rear axle setup, and plan on setting the front up with 4:11's and a Eaton e-locker and beefier axles, and black magic brakes to basically finish my build.

I'll be staying with the basically 3 1/2" lift suspension I have. I feel it will be fine for what I plan on doing as far as off road and crawling goes.

Now I'm not married to the idea of running a hpd30, but since I'm doing this off the rig, I could build either type dana 30. And the HP 30 does have a slight benefit in that the high pinion would give me the option to get a little more caster angle if I needed it.

So my question is, which year and model Cherokee should I be looking at for a donor axle? I don't want a CAD axle. And I've read about how you can deal with one, but I know that I don't want one.

I think I've read that a 98 Cherokee axle would work, but are there other year models that would work? What about the Grand Cherokee?

Ultimately, I'll go with which ever 30 I can find for a reasonable price, but I'm trying to see all my options going forward.

And thanks, in advance, for the education.

 

[D M]

The HPD30 axles you want are from a 1994-1998 Jeep Cherokee, I am not sure if all are CAD but I know some arent. I am also looking to swap a High pinion 30 so I can build it while its out, so I dont know much. @tworley has swapped one on his so he can probably give better insight

 

[tworley]

I am not sure what dictated whether the cherokee got a CAD axle or not but my HP came from a 92 cherokee. So there are earlier options available. I can't remember which ones had the bigger ujoints but I took everything from my lpd30 and swapped it over so it didnt matter to me. I would only pick up the axle if you can get it for cheap. Around here you can buy them anywhere form $50-150 bucks. I wouldnt pay more than $100 for one

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Just know that there's nothing wrong with using the CAD version,They're actually a bit stiffer/stronger on that side due to the boxed in area that previously housed the unused CAD part.

 

[Modoc Guy]

Thanks for the replies guys!

So far I've found a couple sources saying non-cad axles run from 93' 1/2 to '99 (Cherokee forum) and '96 to '99 (HK Offroad magazine)

I'm still looking around, cuz I'm not paying stupid money for one. Hopefully, I can find something relatively soon, I'd like to do my axle swaps this spring/summer.

I did find out another fact in favor of a HP vs an LP axle. The HP gears drive on the load side of the R&P as opposed to the LP which drive on the coast side supposedly making it somewhat of a stronger setup.

Though it seems to me that would be something a drag racing guy might want, as opposed to offroad/crawling. As Blaine has pointed out, not many guys are breaking R&P sets in 30's so it shouldn't be a concern.

 

[afusco1222]

Breaking a ring and pinion shouldn't be your biggest concern but getting the driveshaft about 5" higher was the best part (for me) about doing the swap. BTW I got mine out of a 97 Cherokee, non-CAD.

 

[never monday]

I did find out another fact in favor of a HP vs an LP axle. The HP gears drive on the load side of the R&P as opposed to the LP which drive on the coast side supposedly making it somewhat of a stronger setup.

Though it seems to me that would be something a drag racing guy might want, as opposed to offroad/crawling. As Blaine has pointed out, not many guys are breaking R&P sets in 30's so it shouldn't be a concern.

This is the key fact for me. DS clearance is a bonus.
On an LP with 35’s while your driving the ramped (coast) side of the gear. As well as turning, the pinion is screwing the ring gear away from the pinion. Since the 30 housing is just adequate, it can flex and kill parts. This is what happened to my OX, and what I believe ARB experienced in early versions.

 

[Rubicon88]

97 and up is what your target should be.

CAD sucks.

Oh but wait...you can convert this and do that...

Eff that. The disconnect ranks right up there with Jeep's decision to use a SR4, T5, AX-5

As in

D
U
M
B


97 and up is easily identified if it's on the vehicle. Just look for the new body shell/trim from 96 and prior

 

[Jerry Bransford]

97 and up is what your target should be.

CAD sucks.

Oh but wait...you can convert this and do that...

Eff that. The disconnect ranks right up there with Jeep's decision to use a SR4, T5, AX-5

As in

D
U
M
B

The CAD function is not used @Rubicon88 when installing that axle into a TJ. Normal Tj type axle shafts are used. As already explained above, the CAD axle housing is actually slightly more desirable due to the CAD box making that side's axle tube slightly stiffer and stronger.

 

[Cross-Threaded-06TJ]

The CAD function is not used when installing that axle into a TJ. Normal Tj type axle shafts are used. The CAD axle housing is actually slightly more desirable due to the CAD box making that axle tube slightly stiffer and stronger.

This makes sense when people understand the concept of the Iron section in there making it sturdier, but less attractive. One thing I don't know if some people mention often is the seals used when running a 1 piece shaft inside a CAD housing are different on the passenger side.

I have done this on my Old YJ front Dana30 and used some seals and a block off plate. I actually used 2 seals on the passenger side that the kit gave me. I believe the concept was to keep dirt and water from being able to drop down into the area and build up. So A seal gets driven into the diff where no seal was before and a seal gets driven into the outside portion of the CAD housing and rides around the solid axle shaft to seal out elements.

I guess this is more common knowledge now, when I did it it was not as popular. I did it to run TJ shafts in my YJ and get the 297X joints and get rid of the CAD section.