Need help with ARB locker re-install

PatMc

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
250
Location
Long Beach CA
Tore everything apart to change axle seals...and it's been a shitshow ever since. I've set up plenty of diffs, but never an ARB....I understand that ARB wants considerably more preload than others on the carrier bearings.

When I tore this thing down, there was a "master shim"...big thick thing, probably 0.150" or so on the non-air side outboard of the bearing race...as well as a 5 piece stack including what appears to be a couple mostly worn out LSD clutches out of something plus a few 0.2thin shims...all between the race and the cast housing.

The air side had a 6 shim stack between the air collar and the cast housing...in the place you'd typically expect to see shims in a conventional diff.

By "feel", before pulling the carrier out, lash and preload felt pretty good...so I was hoping to duplicate it going back in...as it should be. I don't have a case spreader, and was hoping not to make one, but it looks like that's where we're going....

The air side shims weren't fucked up when it came apart...so I left those alone. The non air side thin shims all tore when I removed the carrier so I measured them all up after cleaning and came up with .0143"...measured up individually after adding them all together came up with 0.139". I machined up a single shim out of a chunk of 4340 I had to 0.141" (split the difference). Put it all back together and the fucking thing won't move by hand...too much preload.

ARB is less than helpful. Is there a document with specs on preload or instructions as to how they want this thing preloaded? Are there supposed to be a stack of shims outboard of the air collar or do the shims go between the air collar and the bearing...as I found after I pulled it out again to repair the copper tube that broke off the last time I touched it carefully through this ordeal?
 
I'm assuming you have the latest ARB and not the old three piece design that was prone to breaking apart.

As you are looking at it, the left side should have the housing seal (the part with the copper line. There is a ARB master shim and whatever else is needed for your shim pack that goes between the seal housing and the bearing. Your original thick master shim goes to the outside of the seal housing between the diff housing and the seal housing.

I would start by recalculating your math first to verify your measurements. Secondly, you were right to measure the shims individually as gear oil and other crap can throw off the thickness calculation. However, I would measure that stack as a whole just to verify your calculation is correct. If it is, the next thing I would check for is to make sure you don't have the locker in a bind going in. I'd remove it and try again.
 
This doesn't sound right or make sense....can you post pics?

It's not right.

I will post pics tomorrow, but for now....from drivers side to passenger side, from housing casting to housing casting..

2 shims that appear to show some bronze with grease grooves...old clutches from something that happened to be the right size to use as shims

3 oh.2.thin shims

bearing race

roller element (pressed onto ARB carrier)...ARB carrier

Passenger side bearing, air coupler thing...when pulled apart, 2 thin shims exist between inner part of air coupler thing and the part where the copper line broke off of.

6 more shims

housing casting
 
Tore everything apart to change axle seals...and it's been a shitshow ever since. I've set up plenty of diffs, but never an ARB....I understand that ARB wants considerably more preload than others on the carrier bearings.

When I tore this thing down, there was a "master shim"...big thick thing, probably 0.150" or so on the non-air side outboard of the bearing race...as well as a 5 piece stack including what appears to be a couple mostly worn out LSD clutches out of something plus a few 0.2thin shims...all between the race and the cast housing.

The air side had a 6 shim stack between the air collar and the cast housing...in the place you'd typically expect to see shims in a conventional diff.

By "feel", before pulling the carrier out, lash and preload felt pretty good...so I was hoping to duplicate it going back in...as it should be. I don't have a case spreader, and was hoping not to make one, but it looks like that's where we're going....

The air side shims weren't fucked up when it came apart...so I left those alone. The non air side thin shims all tore when I removed the carrier so I measured them all up after cleaning and came up with .0143"...measured up individually after adding them all together came up with 0.139". I machined up a single shim out of a chunk of 4340 I had to 0.141" (split the difference). Put it all back together and the fucking thing won't move by hand...too much preload.

ARB is less than helpful. Is there a document with specs on preload or instructions as to how they want this thing preloaded? Are there supposed to be a stack of shims outboard of the air collar or do the shims go between the air collar and the bearing...as I found after I pulled it out again to repair the copper tube that broke off the last time I touched it carefully through this ordeal?
 

Attachments

  • RD116.pdf
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It was late last night so I got back after it this morning after reading through the ARB manual...the "master shim" is not present between the air collar and bearing. A whole bunch of extra shims are present where they shouldn't be. ARB says the shim kit for my unit has been discontinued. I found a local shop that's done a whole lot of ARBs and has tons of spare parts / shims in stock, so I'm just gonna yank the axle and bring it up to him to put together properly. I will spend hours machining shims if I try and do this myself.

Thanks.
 
It was late last night so I got back after it this morning after reading through the ARB manual...the "master shim" is not present between the air collar and bearing. A whole bunch of extra shims are present where they shouldn't be. ARB says the shim kit for my unit has been discontinued. I found a local shop that's done a whole lot of ARBs and has tons of spare parts / shims in stock, so I'm just gonna yank the axle and bring it up to him to put together properly. I will spend hours machining shims if I try and do this myself.

Thanks.

Sounds like you have the older three piece version. Not worth fixing in my opinion. I tried repairing mine three times before giving up and moving on to the RD100. Understand there are two different master shims on the left side as you're looking at it. One is the ARB master shim that goes between the seal housing and the bearing. The axle master shim goes between the diff housing and the seal housing. Good luck with it!