Noticeable difference with IAC valve.

[Bird]

This may have been covered so forgive me.
I noticed when removing my IAC valve that it's considerably different in my 2005 4.0 then in the thread started by Chris " how to clean " .
It's only 1 torx screw and a PITA to remove so i just shot some Aerokroil on that bolt and simply hand tighted for easy removal the next time.
I just shot cleaner down it the housing until the black quit.
I assume there's no way to get to the plug end section of the valve.
By the way.....this site is incredibly helpful with some very knowledgeable and willing folks. Thanks

 

[Chris]

I might be a little confused here. Were you able to remove the IAC completely and clean it throughly?

Glad you're finding the forum to be a help!

 

[Bird]

Chris, it can only be removed with this section of housing with it.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The IAC can usually be cleaned well enough to restore it to 100% good working condition without physically removing the IAC from the TB.

Just start the engine and start spraying the TB cleaner into the TB with the engine at idle rpms. When the engine is idling, the IAC will suck the cleaner in through itself to clean its passages. The IAC will not draw any cleaner through itself at any rpms but idle so don't be revving the engine while spraying the TB cleaner into the TB if you want to clean the IAC.

The engine will stall each time the IAC fills with TB cleaner but that is fine, just restart the engine. That the cleaner will sit inside the IAC while you go to restart the engine is good since that gives it more time to soak into the gunk so it can dissolve and be blown out through the exhaust.

I normally use a half-can's worth of cleaner in this procedure to insure the IAC internals have been cleaned well enough.

 

[Bird]

Hey thanks Jerry, my knew preferred method.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Hey thanks Jerry, my knew preferred method.

I "knew" you'd like it.

 

[Bird]

Lol ok i meant new.....but you new that Jerry