NP241 OR 4WD illumination

[mrblaine]

We have seen the issues with the common switches used in place of the OEM 4 position resistance based sensor switch and how they no longer work or work poorly. We solved the issue on one we just did with a pair of small NO magnetic switches and a flying magnet glued to the t-case shifter handle. The console got put back before I snagged a pic but there really isn't much to it. Check the handle all the way forward and back to figure out where to JB Weld the magnet in place, you'll see why. Position the switches on some sheet metal screwed to the shifter base and watch the lights work. Not nearly as hard as I thought it would be.

We put a connector on a pair of wires and plugged that into the one that usually goes on the switch, a 2 pin Weatherpack, drilled a small hole in the shifter plate, and ran the two wires right up through there. From there, that pair just gets connected together to trip the dash light.

 

[Lou]

Not anywhere near the top of my priority list but i would like to get the dash light working again.

 

[mrblaine]

Not anywhere near the top of my priority list but i would like to get the dash light working again.

Originally we were going to use the small magnetic switches on the 4 hi and 4 low positions. But, the idiots that labelled them as NO are mistaken and they are NC. Had I read the questions I would have discovered that before I ordered. Instead, we used them in the 2 hi and neutral positions where the magnet holds them open and turns the light off. Moving away from the magnet allows them to close and trip the light. There is no power that needs to be supplied since the circuit ends at a switch on the t-case in the non Rubi models, connect the pair of wires together, light comes on, disconnect, light goes off.

 

[Bigmac]

Sheer brilliance. I thought I was just going to have to ignore it forever or replace the switch again.

Thank you MrBlaine.