So I am in need of some help. I’ve been looking to see what stock shifter came on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler rubicon (nsg370) and can’t find any pictures. I just installed a 1.25” jks body lift and the shifter is hitting the the console when trying to engage into 2nd,4th,6th it reverse. I had to remove the front half of the console in order to engage those gears. I am also trying to order a new gear shift floor plan cover since this one is damaged. But from the current issue I have now, I know this new gear shift plate and shifter won’t mesh correctly. Only thing I can think of is it’s the wrong shifter or it’s been heated and bent. Looking for some help. Thanks in advance.
NSG370 shifter hitting after body lift
- Thread starter Jwill22
- Start date
Ah man, you're going to have the same problem I had. I have an 05 with the 6-speed, we have the same lower shifter boot. Mine tore to shreds after I got my 1.25" BL. I'm curious, do you also have a MML? WARNING: If you just put a new lower shift boot on there to keep all that heat from coming into your cab, you're just going to end up tearing it up again. I had to move the shifter connection point up to get it out of where the rubber is supposed to be AND I had to move the console back 1".
Here was my procedure and you can pick and choose what you might need for your exact needs:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/page-28
Here was my procedure and you can pick and choose what you might need for your exact needs:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/page-28
So did you order a new gear shift floor plan cover? Also does your shifter look similar to mine near the base? To me it appears to be different. I’m wondering if the previous owner switch shifters.... also I did add a motor mount lift when I installed the body lift.
Yes, I ordered this one
https://collinsbrosjeep.com/05-06-tj-lj-lower-shift-boot/
Yes, my shifter looks exactly like yours. The bolt goes in that hole to connect it to the lower portion that is coming out the top of your transmission. The 05-06 have this shifter style, the earlier versions are different!
The MML made my situation worse, like yours, since it leans the shifter back toward the rear, making it even closer to hitting the shifter bezel. That's why I had to move my console back 1"
FYI, the real solution is a Tummy Tuck. Once you get an SYE and DC you can get a higher clearance skid. It will lift the transmission and TCase back up and everything will be perfect again. But, for a temporary solution, you can do exactly what I did on the link above and you can re-install the shifter and not tear up the new gear shift floor plan cover and not hit it on your bezel. I hope my link helps you, since the only reason I put it on here is to help someone. It took me awhile to think through what I needed to do and to figure out how to do it.
https://collinsbrosjeep.com/05-06-tj-lj-lower-shift-boot/
Yes, my shifter looks exactly like yours. The bolt goes in that hole to connect it to the lower portion that is coming out the top of your transmission. The 05-06 have this shifter style, the earlier versions are different!
The MML made my situation worse, like yours, since it leans the shifter back toward the rear, making it even closer to hitting the shifter bezel. That's why I had to move my console back 1"
FYI, the real solution is a Tummy Tuck. Once you get an SYE and DC you can get a higher clearance skid. It will lift the transmission and TCase back up and everything will be perfect again. But, for a temporary solution, you can do exactly what I did on the link above and you can re-install the shifter and not tear up the new gear shift floor plan cover and not hit it on your bezel. I hope my link helps you, since the only reason I put it on here is to help someone. It took me awhile to think through what I needed to do and to figure out how to do it.
And it’s all done, everything tucked up where it should have been from the factory. Shifter angle corrected, console corrected. It’s dreamy...
You could simply remove the material that is causing the problem.Cheap and easy, plus it works!
That let's you drive now. Then order the parts you need and get that done at a convenient time for you.
That let's you drive now. Then order the parts you need and get that done at a convenient time for you.
Savvy TCase Skid ($650)
JB SS SYE ($320)
DC Driveshaft ($75 from forum member)
CA’s ($900 some new, some from forum member)
Speedohealer ($115)
Total $2060 + some tools and fluids.
It was more than I expected. For example, I did not expect needing the front CA’s. That would have lowered it to $1660. If you already have CA’s, you are set in that department. However, I did get a deal on the driveshaft, so that saved me some significant $$.i already had the BL and MML.
Just moving the console back 1” allowed it to clear for shifting. However, the lower shift boot was ripped to shreds and heat was rushing in. In TX with no AC it was stupid uncomfortable. Wife didn’t want to ride around. The only way to fix that was to get a lower shift boot. But not wanting to destroy it, I had to get the bulky attachment of the shifter above or below the lower shifter boot. Above made more sense with the console issue. The shifting was still not ideal due to the rearward tilt of the shifter. In the end, everything worked out.You could simply remove the material that is causing the problem.Cheap and easy, plus it works!
That let's you drive now. Then order the parts you need and get that done at a convenient time for you.
It really does make the TJ look skinny. That realization continues to strike you for several weeks after the surgery. Well worth every penny for both form and functionThe upgrade is well worth it (for those that wheel), I still can’t believe they shipped these with the shovel underneath! The side profile is much sleeker too
I had the same issue with the shifter after the BL & MML. I did a semi-tuck with:
RC Extra clearance skid $250 (specifically designed to work with a 1.25 BL and 1" MML)
Core4x4 Rear Adj. Upper CAs $210
Adams SYE & DD DS $440
It was the more affordable way to go for me. I will eventually get all adjustable control arms when I move to a 4" lift. The RC skid is heavy duty, and I have been hitting some rocky trails pretty hard. It moved everything back up to where its supposed to be so there is no shifter issues at all. I also have the Savvy cable for my NP231, which takes care of the binding transfer case linkage.
Dredging this up after reading this on the B&M 45195 page: "May not fit 2005-2006 models with a body lift, transmission drop."
https://www.holley.com/products/dri...l_shifters/precision_sportshifter/parts/45195
In my case (06 LJR) I have BL, MML and Tummy Tuck. No issues whatsoever with the OEM shifter as far as I can tell (only one I've driven), but I'm not a fan of the feel so looking into the B&M Precision and curious if I'll have problems after the install as the warning states? Looks like you guys have addressed this so just looking for confirmation. Only 33k mi. on the LJ so kind of a preemptive strike on the shifter upgrade but sounds like a worthwhile mod. (My other choice for the same money is a Savvy gas tank skid for a 'possible' MOAB run).
Also, not finding a YouTube specifically for the '06 but should be ok without.
TIA
Neither of my 05's had any shifter issues after a BL/MML.
I have no shifter issues (as stated above), just wondering if I might create some with the B&M?
Hi @NOTNSUV, I just had my clutch done and I popped in the B&M to tighten everything up and yes not only dose it tighten everything up it cause clearance issues. With the black trim on, I cannot get into reverse.
I have a motor mount lift, UCF no body lift skid and a 1in body lift. I just bought the BM shift lever hoping the angles would be different, if not I might try to just bend the stock lever. I know a few guys have done it for other reasons.
I have a motor mount lift, UCF no body lift skid and a 1in body lift. I just bought the BM shift lever hoping the angles would be different, if not I might try to just bend the stock lever. I know a few guys have done it for other reasons.
If I can get the motivation today I might try taking off the engine skid, unbolting the T case skid and jacking up the transmission to see if that helps. If so, I might swap to a higher clearance Skid.
Ill let you know how I make out with the BM shifter lever, Amazon says it’s coming today.
Ill let you know how I make out with the BM shifter lever, Amazon says it’s coming today.
I would think it would work if the TT was high enough, but with your Nth setup you would just have to try it to see.
