Oil Pan Bolts

MichelleS

MichelleS

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Joined
Jul 31, 2018
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8
Location
Florida
Does anyone know where I can get a new set of bolts? Im talking about the bolts that mount the oil pan to the block. Id like a new set but I either don't know what Im looking for or can't find anything.
Can anyone help?
 
Just take one of the bolts to your local ACE Hardware or Home Depot and match them up. Simple as that! They're nothing special, just bolts. That's what I would do if I was in this situation.
 
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Chris said:
Just take one of the bolts to your local ACE Hardware or Home Depot and match them up. Simple as that! They're nothing special, just bolts. That's what I would do if I was in this situation.
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I did that to the first one I lost and replaced it with a common bolt from Lowe's and when I torqued it down it snapped off. So Im kind of leary to use a common bolt.
 
MichelleS said:
I did that to the first one I lost and replaced it with a common bolt from Lowe's and when I torqued it down it snapped off. So Im kind of leary to use a common bolt.
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Those bolts shouldn't be torqued down much at all. How much did your torque it down to?

I assure you, those oil pan bolts are nothing more than common bolts. They aren't Grade 8 bolts or anything, just regular bolts. Look for flange bolts if possible. My local ACE Hardware carries tons of flange bolts, and I can guarantee they would have them in this size. I think most ACE stores will.
 
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FYI, the torque spec on those oil pan bolts is 84 in/lbs according to the factory service manual (FSM). That converts to 7 ft/lbs.

That's hand tight. You shouldn't be torquing down those bolts at all, especially with a torque wrench. If you are, then that's why you're breaking the bolt heads off. Those bolts are small, they aren't mean to have any force applied to them.
 
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They are 1/4-20 Flange Head Cap Screws. Grade 5 would be fine. If you can't find flange head, just common hex bolts and use washers underneath them. IIRC there are about 8 places where there is a longer stud...and you're not going to be able to find those. Also, there are four 5/16-18 bolts in the corners as well...

I guess I should state that this information applies to the 4.0L. Not sure about the 4 cylinder models.
 
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Chris said:
FYI, the torque spec on those oil pan bolts is 84 in/lbs according to the factory service manual (FSM). That converts to 7 ft/lbs.

That's hand tight. You shouldn't be torquing down those bolts at all, especially with a torque wrench. If you are, then that's why you're breaking the bolt heads off. Those bolts are small, they aren't mean to have any force applied to them.
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Fixed it for you
 
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Over tightening them could crush the gasket too much and cause a leak. If Ace does not have them Home Depot should, as a last resort, try Fastenal, you may have to buy 50 though.
I have also used Grainger, they have a lot of fasteners in all sizes and grades. You can tell a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt by the head. A grade 5 bolt has three radially positioned lines on it, grade 8 has 6 lines. Grade 8 is the strongest of the two.
 
Chris said:
Those bolts shouldn't be torqued down much at all. How much did your torque it down to?

I assure you, those oil pan bolts are nothing more than common bolts. They aren't Grade 8 bolts or anything, just regular bolts. Look for flange bolts if possible. My local ACE Hardware carries tons of flange bolts, and I can guarantee they would have them in this size. I think most ACE stores will.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll check out ACE.
 
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Chris said:
Those bolts shouldn't be torqued down much at all. How much did your torque it down to?

I assure you, those oil pan bolts are nothing more than common bolts. They aren't Grade 8 bolts or anything, just regular bolts. Look for flange bolts if possible. My local ACE Hardware carries tons of flange bolts, and I can guarantee they would have them in this size. I think most ACE stores will.
Click to expand...

I didn't torque them down too much but, a few days after the gasket swap I went under to inspect for leaks and anything that might need attention. I noticed the oddball bolt was loose so I took the ratchet to it and as soon as I made the first turn, it fell out...well, broke off. So I don't know if was that I torqued it too much the first time or if there was some friction between the block and the pan and it snapped it....who knows...but I'd like to think that I was careful enough not to overtighten. I've done this job many times before and this has never happened.
 
Chris said:
Just take one of the bolts to your local ACE Hardware or Home Depot and match them up. Simple as that! They're nothing special, just bolts. That's what I would do if I was in this situation.
Click to expand...
I think I'll go by there and see if I can get a stronger grade bolt. I still have the job of fishing that broken bolt out though....ugh...not looking forward to it.
 
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MichelleS said:
I think I'll go by there and see if I can get a stronger grade bolt. I still have the job of fishing that broken bolt out though....ugh...not looking forward to it.
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I hear ya! Getting out stripped bolts is a pain in the butt!
 
I replaced all the Transmission pan bolts on my step-sons car when I was rebuilding it from Lowe's. I just took one down and used their measuring tool to figure out the exact threads and bought all new bolts plush some extras and lock washers to keep the bolts from backing out. So far so good.
 
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