Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

OME 2.5" lift bump stops?

bobthetj03 said:
I think those longer jounce bumpers are just poly units that slide into the bumper cup just like the factory ones do. A hacksaw should make quick work of cutting them down to factory length. I can measure how far my factory bumpers stick down past the cup if you like for reference @Chris.
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Yes, they are. I went out and put my finger up inside of them and they're just long, hollow bumpers (though they appear to be rubber, not poly), so I can just use my hacksaw and cut them down as needed depending on how much bump stop I need.

This is a pleasant surprise at least, knowing I can make these things work!

But yes, if you get a chance to take that measurement, I'd appreciate it. With the 1/2" body lift, I may actually not need anymore than stock length bump stops. That extra 1/2" will probably clear these 31.7" tires, since the OME lift was meant for 31" tires.
 
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I think there is a bit of confusion here on jounce bumpers vs bump stops. The part at the top, is the jouncer bumper. It does nothing but soften the impact of the axle into the upper cup. When setting bump stops, at the bottom spring pad, you remove those upper foam/rubber jouncer completely. Do not count on those to limit your up travel. Proper bump stops are secured to the lower axle pad and must be very rigid. Vulcanized rubber hockey pucks work great, but need a washer the same diameter to cover the top puck that impacts the upper jounce cup, otherwise they will get chewed up. Here is my setup, on 3.5 metalcloak spring and 35s so you shouldn't need this much bump:
 
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Jeepaholic said:
View attachment 32063 View attachment 32064 I think there is a bit of confusion here on jounce bumpers vs bump stops. The part at the top, is the jouncer bumper. It does nothing but soften the impact of the axle into the upper cup. When setting bump stops, at the bottom spring pad, you remove those upper foam/rubber jouncer completely. Do not count on those to limit your up travel. Proper bump stops are secured to the lower axle pad and must be very rigid. Vulcanized rubber hockey pucks work great, but need a washer the same diameter to cover the top puck that impacts the upper jounce cup, otherwise they will get chewed up. Here is my setup, on 3.5 metalcloak spring and 35s so you shouldn't need this much bump:
Click to expand...

Great explanation, I wasn’t confused on that but I did jump in and cross over from OME to stock. Sometimes I get off course without realizing until after the fact.


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@Chris I just installed OME 2" springs on my Rubicon with Bilstein 5100's. I had to add 1/2 bumpstop to the front to limit the shock up travel...I'm also not running the OME 10mm isolators (where the extra 1/2" comes from) so you may have to add a bit more. I am running a "32" tire (that actually measures close to 33) and bumpstopped it before my fenders are on too...so the only limit on my uptravel is the shock. I'll cut the flare or pinchweld if my tire gets into the fender.
 
Ranger_b0b said:
@Chris I just installed OME 2" springs on my Rubicon with Bilstein 5100's. I had to add 1/2 bumpstop to the front to limit the shock up travel...I'm also not running the OME 10mm isolators (where the extra 1/2" comes from) so you may have to add a bit more. I am running a "32" tire (that actually measures close to 33) and bumpstopped it before my fenders are on too...so the only limit on my uptravel is the shock. I'll cut the flare or pinchweld if my tire gets into the fender.
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Yes, I've got the 10mm isolators, as well as a 1/2" body lift. So I'm sure I'll end up with a slightly different number.
 
Jeepaholic said:
View attachment 32063 View attachment 32064 I think there is a bit of confusion here on jounce bumpers vs bump stops. The part at the top, is the jouncer bumper. It does nothing but soften the impact of the axle into the upper cup. When setting bump stops, at the bottom spring pad, you remove those upper foam/rubber jouncer completely. Do not count on those to limit your up travel. Proper bump stops are secured to the lower axle pad and must be very rigid. Vulcanized rubber hockey pucks work great, but need a washer the same diameter to cover the top puck that impacts the upper jounce cup, otherwise they will get chewed up. Here is my setup, on 3.5 metalcloak spring and 35s so you shouldn't need this much bump:
Click to expand...

Interesting. But how are those bump stops secured to the spring perch going to stop the axle from moving up anymore than if it was the bare spring perch hitting the jounce bumper? I mean those pucks in your picture are still going to contact the jounce bumper when the axle is all the way up at the end of it's travel, no?
 
Ranger_b0b said:
@Chris I just installed OME 2" springs on my Rubicon with Bilstein 5100's. I had to add 1/2 bumpstop to the front to limit the shock up travel...I'm also not running the OME 10mm isolators (where the extra 1/2" comes from) so you may have to add a bit more. I am running a "32" tire (that actually measures close to 33) and bumpstopped it before my fenders are on too...so the only limit on my uptravel is the shock. I'll cut the flare or pinchweld if my tire gets into the fender.
Click to expand...

I'm betting they will. Mine have self clearance themselves, lol!

Out of curiosity, do you know the collapsed/extended lengths on your Bilstein's?
 
bobthetj03 said:
I'm betting they will. Mine have self clearance themselves, lol!

Out of curiosity, do you know the collapsed/extended lengths on your Bilstein's?
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I'm hoping the 125" BL I'm installing will minimize any "self-clearancing" that happens!

My front shocks measure 21 3/4" extended and 13 3/4" collapsed. I haven't gotten around to measuring the rears yet...couple weeks from installation.
 
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Chris said:
Interesting. But how are those bump stops secured to the spring perch going to stop the axle from moving up anymore than if it was the bare spring perch hitting the jounce bumper? I mean those pucks in your picture are still going to contact the jounce bumper when the axle is all the way up at the end of it's travel, no?
Click to expand...
The bump stops will smash that jounce bumper until they run into the metal cup that holds the jouncer. So in my case, the pucks are 4" higher than the base they are bolted to, so the axle will stop uptravel 4" before it would if they were not there. I needed 4" not for tire clearance, but so as not to bottom out my shocks in the front. In the rear, 3" was required to keep the tires away from the pinch seam for the quarter panel.
 
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Chris said:
My OME kit only came with rear bump stop extensions, nothing at all for the front.

For the life of me I can't remember how I had it setup on my previous TJ Rubicon, as that was years ago.

I'm trying to figure out why they didn't include any front bump stop extensions (they don't even offer them)?

Is there anyone out there with a Rubicon with a 2.5" OME lift who can tell me how much bump stop they needed (roughly) for the front and rear with this lift? @glwood, you might have this setup on your Rubicon, right?

I'm trying to determine if I need to order front bump stop extensions, or if they aren't required for this lift.

I've got stock steering and the stock track bar with 265/75r16 (31.7") tires.
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I only got the one set, I put them on the front, not the rear. Can't remember what the instructions said, but pretty sure they were supposed to go on the front. That's where mine went, anyway...
 
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glwood said:
I only got the one set, I put them on the front, not the rear. Can't remember what the instructions said, but pretty sure they were supposed to go on the front. That's where mine went, anyway...
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Haha I got the one set and from what I could tell was told to put them on the rear.

I haven't cycled my suspension yet but if for some reason I have to pull my springs again will.
 
ac_ said:
Haha I got the one set and from what I could tell was told to put them on the rear.

I haven't cycled my suspension yet but if for some reason I have to pull my springs again will.
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Yeah, the PDF I found online said to put them in the rear. I want to do it right the first time, so I'll cycle the suspension and see where I end up in regard to how much bump stop I need.
 
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Chris said:
Yeah, the PDF I found online said to put them in the rear. I want to do it right the first time, so I'll cycle the suspension and see where I end up in regard to how much bump stop I need.
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Oh, well. Mine are staying put for now. I just went out and checked, and without them on the front, my tires would be in the flares at full compression. In the back, the tires won't come close to the flares, even without the bump stop spacers. I think that's why I went against the install instructions and put them up front.
 
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Chris said:
Yeah, the PDF I found online said to put them in the rear. I want to do it right the first time, so I'll cycle the suspension and see where I end up in regard to how much bump stop I need.
Click to expand...

Maybe I missed this, but no Currie 4"?

Were you right in saying you'd wished you would have stayed with 31's?
 
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