He sure does! He can half rebuild an entire Jeep in the time it takes me to, for example, swap out a set of ball joints. And that time even includes him taking time out to answer my stupid questions!
Operation Phoenix
- Thread starter macleanflood
- Start date
Not to mention time spent taking, editing, and posting videos on YouTube...
That is a HUGE time sink. I did a 3 minute gun video last nite. In addition to setup, painting my nails, and shooting time, it took me two hours with the video editor. So probably 3 hours in total. Even the Jeep pix I take for my website take time to process, and get added to the appropriate location. I have a workflow, but it still takes time.
If it won't line up and you've tried several times, you need to drive the roll pin out of the distributor gear, rotate the gear 180 deg, and put the roll pin back in.
Rolled the distributor gear 180. With pin in FSM position it finally lined up with the bolt hole for the hold down!
But still no start. Pretty damn sure I stabbed it in on TDC.
Verified I have spark. I have fuel pressure. I have oil pressure. Guess I need to listen and see if the injectors are ticking.
-Mac
But still no start. Pretty damn sure I stabbed it in on TDC.
Verified I have spark. I have fuel pressure. I have oil pressure. Guess I need to listen and see if the injectors are ticking.
-Mac
Ok... it's running. I tried a bunch of stuff. Swapped the distributor to my old one. No change. Tried going forward and back a few teeth. No change. Listening for injectors...think I can hear them. Sprayed brake cleaner down the throttle body...no change. Verified TDC not only with timing marks but pulled 1 spark plug. Dead on. Ran a compression check. 90 psi... probably normal for not breaking in the rings.
Then I hooked up the gas pedal and tried starting it and giving it gas...and bingo...started up! Not idling. So I need to check the throttle body and intake.
View: https://youtu.be/15XTxlbi5nM?si=LMVUOIrf-4Mt8lxX
-Mac
P.S. Hooking up the intake fixed the idle. It's a bit high.
So I'm thinking of connecting the radiator and doing a 20 minute break in. Thoughts, suggestions?
Then I hooked up the gas pedal and tried starting it and giving it gas...and bingo...started up! Not idling. So I need to check the throttle body and intake.
View: https://youtu.be/15XTxlbi5nM?si=LMVUOIrf-4Mt8lxX
-Mac
P.S. Hooking up the intake fixed the idle. It's a bit high.
So I'm thinking of connecting the radiator and doing a 20 minute break in. Thoughts, suggestions?
That sounds like a stuck IAC if it will run as long as you press the gas pedal.
Well yesterday afternoon was brutal.
Started with running a new return side power steering line. New hose was thinner than the old stuff so I had to find some different constant pressure clamps. That took some searching...but they were in the back seat pocket of the Jeep...that plastic box assortment of clamps saved my ass on my fuel line.
Moved from there to getting the condenser bolted to the grill. Holes wouldn't line up. TYC was an inch shorter than the original. Slotted the holes, added a fender washer and installed the grill.
Spent an hour looking for one of the rubber bumpers.
Installed a new belt. My AC delete belt was too short previously and I lost the tensioner pulley...all replaced. K060790 which is an equivalent to a belt a forum member found.
Went to install my original Spectra JB Weld edition radiator and it wouldn't fit. TYC condenser hoses are an inch shorter than the original. Can't get the radiator passenger enough to line up the bolt holes.
So I unbolted the hoses from the old condenser, replaced and lubed the o-rings - I have an o-ring AC kit - and reinstalled the condenser...which is now a PIA for the bottom bolts being out of sight. Took 30 minutes to get it installed only to discover one of the metal lines was bent passenger...so out it came again...used a punch to bend the thin aluminum...then pushed one of the new bottom well nuts into the grill reinstalling. That's gone. Three bolts will be fine.
Radiator bolted up. Took a while to locate bolts...only got three...lower passenger corner sticks out 3/4" so pretty sure this radiator has a twist. Got the shroud on. Hoses clamped.
Was going to fill with distilled water and this Blue Devil radiator flush but destructions said not to leave it in for more than 4 hours and thoroughly flush the block. Too spicy for me.
Decided to go straight for coolant because instead of buying concentrate I bought premix and I didn't want to fight ratios with distilled water.
Poured in a gallon...and it poured right out the lower block drain on to the floor. Hour of mopping and cursing as I did a stomach crunch bear hugging the header pipe finger tip threading a bung into the hole behind the header.
Poured in another gallon. Whew. No leaks. Poured in a second. Waterfall out of the thermostat housing. I have the hardest time getting the thermostat to stay put in the recess...it fell down, keeping the housing proud of the sealing surface.
Four attempts later...belt on and off... finally got it sealed up. Mopped up a half gallon of coolant off the floor.
Cleaned up the IAC and throttle body passenges.
Topped off the oil and went for a 20 minute break in. Had to give it gas to get it to start and run...but it settled into a slightly high idle... reconnected the PCV 1/4" hose... manually worked the throttle getting RPM up to 2500-3300 or so like you're supposed to do for a break in. Not that we're breaking in a cam... it's used...but the lifters are new...lot of lifter noise by the way.
Four minutes in coolant pouring out of the passenger side. I replaced the worm drive clamps with constant tension clamps on the oil heater...it really doesn't ever cool the oil, let's be honest...and the forward clamp didn't provide enough tension. Replaced it with a smaller one which was a pia because the clamp max open would barely fit on the hose...the nipple at best off the oil heater is 5/8...hose is 3/4...it works but I really should do a 5/8" hose and 5/8 x 3/4 elbow...but I don't want more clamps and fittings and places to leak...and I can't find a reasonably priced aluminum elbow.
Mopped up another gallon of coolant.
And a puddle of ATF from the power steering pump. Looks like my selection of a generic o-ring from my kit was insufficient to seal up the reservoir. So that's going to need to be sourced and removed and disassembled again.
Plus a half gallon of MT-90 spewed from the transmission. It's hanging there on a floor jack. I pumped up a little higher. Towel I had stuffed in the back came out. Might be in gear. I thought it was in neutral. Shifter is disconnected.
No word on that bellhousing I ordered.
Called it quits at 9:30 pm.
I think I put at least $100 worth of fluids on the floor...
-Mac
Started with running a new return side power steering line. New hose was thinner than the old stuff so I had to find some different constant pressure clamps. That took some searching...but they were in the back seat pocket of the Jeep...that plastic box assortment of clamps saved my ass on my fuel line.
Moved from there to getting the condenser bolted to the grill. Holes wouldn't line up. TYC was an inch shorter than the original. Slotted the holes, added a fender washer and installed the grill.
Spent an hour looking for one of the rubber bumpers.
Installed a new belt. My AC delete belt was too short previously and I lost the tensioner pulley...all replaced. K060790 which is an equivalent to a belt a forum member found.
Went to install my original Spectra JB Weld edition radiator and it wouldn't fit. TYC condenser hoses are an inch shorter than the original. Can't get the radiator passenger enough to line up the bolt holes.
So I unbolted the hoses from the old condenser, replaced and lubed the o-rings - I have an o-ring AC kit - and reinstalled the condenser...which is now a PIA for the bottom bolts being out of sight. Took 30 minutes to get it installed only to discover one of the metal lines was bent passenger...so out it came again...used a punch to bend the thin aluminum...then pushed one of the new bottom well nuts into the grill reinstalling. That's gone. Three bolts will be fine.
Radiator bolted up. Took a while to locate bolts...only got three...lower passenger corner sticks out 3/4" so pretty sure this radiator has a twist. Got the shroud on. Hoses clamped.
Was going to fill with distilled water and this Blue Devil radiator flush but destructions said not to leave it in for more than 4 hours and thoroughly flush the block. Too spicy for me.
Decided to go straight for coolant because instead of buying concentrate I bought premix and I didn't want to fight ratios with distilled water.
Poured in a gallon...and it poured right out the lower block drain on to the floor. Hour of mopping and cursing as I did a stomach crunch bear hugging the header pipe finger tip threading a bung into the hole behind the header.
Poured in another gallon. Whew. No leaks. Poured in a second. Waterfall out of the thermostat housing. I have the hardest time getting the thermostat to stay put in the recess...it fell down, keeping the housing proud of the sealing surface.
Four attempts later...belt on and off... finally got it sealed up. Mopped up a half gallon of coolant off the floor.
Cleaned up the IAC and throttle body passenges.
Topped off the oil and went for a 20 minute break in. Had to give it gas to get it to start and run...but it settled into a slightly high idle... reconnected the PCV 1/4" hose... manually worked the throttle getting RPM up to 2500-3300 or so like you're supposed to do for a break in. Not that we're breaking in a cam... it's used...but the lifters are new...lot of lifter noise by the way.
Four minutes in coolant pouring out of the passenger side. I replaced the worm drive clamps with constant tension clamps on the oil heater...it really doesn't ever cool the oil, let's be honest...and the forward clamp didn't provide enough tension. Replaced it with a smaller one which was a pia because the clamp max open would barely fit on the hose...the nipple at best off the oil heater is 5/8...hose is 3/4...it works but I really should do a 5/8" hose and 5/8 x 3/4 elbow...but I don't want more clamps and fittings and places to leak...and I can't find a reasonably priced aluminum elbow.
Mopped up another gallon of coolant.
And a puddle of ATF from the power steering pump. Looks like my selection of a generic o-ring from my kit was insufficient to seal up the reservoir. So that's going to need to be sourced and removed and disassembled again.
Plus a half gallon of MT-90 spewed from the transmission. It's hanging there on a floor jack. I pumped up a little higher. Towel I had stuffed in the back came out. Might be in gear. I thought it was in neutral. Shifter is disconnected.
No word on that bellhousing I ordered.
Called it quits at 9:30 pm.
I think I put at least $100 worth of fluids on the floor...
-Mac
Ok well good news this morning... radiator should be here today, not tomorrow and the bellhousing should be here Friday tops.
Need to run to town today and get fluids.
-Mac
Need to run to town today and get fluids.
-Mac
Man this sounds like one of my days... 3 steps forward & 2 steps back.... Sorry to hear you're having so many fluid issues....
I've gotten lazy and like the premix coolant instead of trying to calculate my mix ratio...
Hope you get your parts before the weekend...
Ok... finally got a good 25 minute break in done. But it sure sounds like either knocking or a lot of lifter noise. Going to drain the oil here in a bit and might cut open the filter.
Got the Koyorad radiator installed.
Started by completely removing the AC line panel instead of just folding it. Every ounce matters imho. Cleaned up the burrs with a die grinder and used a paint pen to touch up the bare metal. Remind me to order a black paint pen.
So the four bolts that were included? Yeah...not for bolting down the radiator. They're self tappers and it's obvious now they're meant for the fan shroud. After spending 45 minutes contorting myself getting the radiator bolted up with the included bolts...I realized my essentially lag bolts don't work in the tiny untapped hole. So I doubled down and got a M6 tap out, tapped the holes and used stainless flange bolts and a washer on one side.
I think the radiator cap is shot. It's one of the few remaining parts from my original Jeep.
Oil heater/cooler hoses kept leaking coolant. Finally removed the constant tension clamps and put back the warm gear clamps. It's essentially a 5/8" tube with a 3/4" hose. I'd love to TIG weld a 90 degree 3/4 inch barb on the the cooler. Alternatively finding a 5/8" to 3/4 aluminum elbow would work...but then that's four more connections that can potentially leak.
Pulled the power steering pump and replaced the my best guess o-ring with one from a $25 pump rebuild kit. Probably should have rebuilt the pump but I'm not in the mood to break more shit at the moment.
O-ring size for reference... bottom left o-ring was my guess from my o-ring kit. Remind me to order another two...one for the kit and one for my spares bag in the Jeep.
Cheap fucking rebuild kit didn't include new hose o-rings. Wasn't leaking so bolted it's crispy ass back up.
The engine was making so much lifter noise I pulled the valve cover. Checked torque and zero play in anything.
Man this engine is super smooth. Revs like butter. I foresee @hosejockey61 yelling at me again for sending it. =) My compliments to Clegg's tech who balanced everything.
I plan on finishing reinstalling the grill... tightening up all the bolts and replacing some cable ties.
Oil change. Filter.
Stretch goal of pulling the transmission and bellhousing. Although I might want to wait for the new one to arrive. If it's wrong or screwed up I don't have the emotional energy to reinstall the transmission again. =)
Oh... exhaust measured 368, intake...coated with Cerrokote...was around 180 and the throttle body was 110-120. Oil temperature got to 170. Fahrenheit for the rest of you that believe in base 10.
-Mac
Got the Koyorad radiator installed.
Started by completely removing the AC line panel instead of just folding it. Every ounce matters imho. Cleaned up the burrs with a die grinder and used a paint pen to touch up the bare metal. Remind me to order a black paint pen.
So the four bolts that were included? Yeah...not for bolting down the radiator. They're self tappers and it's obvious now they're meant for the fan shroud. After spending 45 minutes contorting myself getting the radiator bolted up with the included bolts...I realized my essentially lag bolts don't work in the tiny untapped hole. So I doubled down and got a M6 tap out, tapped the holes and used stainless flange bolts and a washer on one side.
I think the radiator cap is shot. It's one of the few remaining parts from my original Jeep.
Oil heater/cooler hoses kept leaking coolant. Finally removed the constant tension clamps and put back the warm gear clamps. It's essentially a 5/8" tube with a 3/4" hose. I'd love to TIG weld a 90 degree 3/4 inch barb on the the cooler. Alternatively finding a 5/8" to 3/4 aluminum elbow would work...but then that's four more connections that can potentially leak.
Pulled the power steering pump and replaced the my best guess o-ring with one from a $25 pump rebuild kit. Probably should have rebuilt the pump but I'm not in the mood to break more shit at the moment.
O-ring size for reference... bottom left o-ring was my guess from my o-ring kit. Remind me to order another two...one for the kit and one for my spares bag in the Jeep.
Cheap fucking rebuild kit didn't include new hose o-rings. Wasn't leaking so bolted it's crispy ass back up.
The engine was making so much lifter noise I pulled the valve cover. Checked torque and zero play in anything.
Man this engine is super smooth. Revs like butter. I foresee @hosejockey61 yelling at me again for sending it. =) My compliments to Clegg's tech who balanced everything.
I plan on finishing reinstalling the grill... tightening up all the bolts and replacing some cable ties.
Oil change. Filter.
Stretch goal of pulling the transmission and bellhousing. Although I might want to wait for the new one to arrive. If it's wrong or screwed up I don't have the emotional energy to reinstall the transmission again. =)
Oh... exhaust measured 368, intake...coated with Cerrokote...was around 180 and the throttle body was 110-120. Oil temperature got to 170. Fahrenheit for the rest of you that believe in base 10.
-Mac
OK - I need this Macism explained, please.
Completely ambiguous. That number could literally be anything.
Similar threads
