Order of Operations for LJ build?

DH-Jeep

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I have been outlining roughly in my head what I want to do to the Jeep I got this month. Which brings me to the question in which the best order / stages to build the Jeep considering $$$ is coming in stages and I can't do a full build from the start.

I was looking for input on what should happen 1st / 2nd / 3rd with the goal of reducing the total cost (not having to replace something that I'll have to replace because of future upgrade) and still building in stages that make since for parts that need to happen together or after X is been done (not throwing 35's on in stage 1 before lift etc...).

This is more of general outline for the major stages (smaller or one off upgrade items can be done between stages.)

Currently what I'm working with.

'04 LJ i6 4.0 Auto
-Dana 30 front w/ 3.73
-Dana 44 rear w/ 3.73
  • 2 - 2.5'' OME lift with unknown shocks (red haven't found a brand yet on them.)
  • 32'' Tires on 15'' rims.
-Rear tube tire carrier bumper (looks homemade)

Everything else is pretty much stock.

End goal is to build the Jeep for Jeepin and going on camping trips / fun on the mountain in the mud and snow. This is not my DD, it'll be used for fun. I know I can't drop 10k into the thing right now to get the best of the best. But when I have the ability to upgrade I want to build quality cause I want this Jeep to last. This post isn't really about what brand of lift etc to go with but in what order makes the most since.

Goal Build
- Full body armor / under carriage / front + rear bumpers.
  • Winch
  • 3.5'' lift + BL 1.25''
  • 35'' tires
  • 5.13 gears + selectable lockers
  • chromoly shafts
  • SYE
  • Steering improvements
  • AntiRock

I know it will depend how on much funds are available at a time to do upgrades, so the other reason behind this post is to determine if I have 1.5k to spend on stuff, whether its smarter to wait until I have 2.5k and do X, Y, Z at once to save on headaches / costs.

Stage 1: Front Bumper and winch. (reasoning: if stuck, winch = unstuck, if winch doesn't get me unstuck I went wrong with what I was doing to begin with.)

Stage 1.5: Go get stuck and test winch.

Stage 2: Regear + Lockers. (Reasoning: the research on my auto, the regearing will make a big improvement, even if only on 32's for now and will still be good when I upgrade tires. Other reason, if I'm already having someone put in lockers, cheaper to do lockers + gears at same time.)

Stage 2.5: Go wheeling and test lockers.

Stage 3: Replacing 2'' lift with 3.5'' + 1.25'' BL and replace 32's with 35's.

Stage 3.5: Drive over Prius? Maybe.

Stage 4: Body Armor / Rockers / under carriage armor / rear bumper

Stage 5: Do the AntiRock / SYE + chromoly shafts in between other stages (SYE after stage 3 or during.)


Any thoughts or changes?

Thanks!
 
Don't forget new tie rod / drag link. I suggest currie. You'll also need an adjustable front track bar and at the very least a relocation bracket for the rear.

Looking forward to watching the progress. Have you started a build thread?

Also, your sye will probably be required at the same time as the 3.5 inch lift. I had 3.5 inch rubicon express springs but recently swapped to 4 inch currie since my springs would unseat at full droop.
 
From what I've read I would do chromoly shafts on the front at least either when you get the lockers or before but not after.

I'd also get the AntiRock after you get the winch. Personally I'd get it before, but that's me and that's up to personal preference, how you wheel, and who with.

As for lockers: I'd personally cough up a little for a lunchbox at first because I can install one myself and sell it later to get some money back. Otherwise look at spending well over $3,000 for parts and labor to get a regear and selectable lockers front and rear.

Edit: After remembering you said you have an LJ you may be fine with the SYE + DC driveshaft after 3.5", just pay attention to it though. When you do an SYE plan it as part of doing a whole tummy tuck to make sure you order the correct length for your DS.
 
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Don't forget new tie rod / drag link. I suggest currie. You'll also need an adjustable front track bar and at the very least a relocation bracket for the rear.

Looking forward to watching the progress. Have you started a build thread?

Also, your sye will probably be required at the same time as the 3.5 inch lift. I had 3.5 inch rubicon express springs but recently swapped to 4 inch currie since my springs would unseat at full droop.

I haven't started yet. I just got the Jeep about 2 weeks ago and so far have just deep cleaned and fixed some minor issues. Once I finish doing all the maintenance and some mechanical fixes (o2 sensors and maybe cats...) then I'll start putting some funds into the bigger upgrades.

And @danof76 The SYE I was thinking of waiting until the lift phase so I don't have to double order shaft sizes. But it'll either be right at the same time of the lift or soon after.

Would there be a reason to not get the chromolys "after" the front is locked?
 
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Would there be a reason to not get the chromolys "after" the front is locked?

By all means you can get them whenever, but if you lock a Dana 30 on your current 32" tires it will be just a matter of time until they break, especially if the locker is enabled and you accelerate with the wheels turned.
 
End goal is to build the Jeep for Jeepin and going on camping trips / fun on the mountain in the mud and snow. This is not my DD, it'll be used for fun.

Your dana 30 will not blow up if you lock it and put on 35's if your not driving aggressively offroad. The dana 30 is a nice axle. If you plan on doing really tough technical rocky trails by all means throw a some new shafts in it.

From the description you gave though of what you plan on doing there is no need.

@Jerry Bransford is the guru at this and probably knows the limits of TJ axles as good as anyone.

as danof76 said though do not give it tons of power at full lock.
 
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