ORI strut lengths for 5-6” lift

[jjvw]

... They say they switched from coil overs to ORI and it was the smoothest ride they have had. ....

Perhaps. I don't know how ORIs compare to good shocks.

... .... Also they mentioned no limiting straps....

Most shocks can be used as limit straps. Whatever method you do use, it still needs to limit down travel in order to prevent an over extension. ORIs don't magically change that fact.

... Also they mentioned no ... bump stops....

The bump stops, wherever or whatever they are, still need to be correctly positioned to limit up travel in order to prevent interferences. ORIs don't magically change that fact.

... or anti rock needed.

All this tells me is that ORIs have enough damping to slow body roll. That is a valving discussion that is not exclusive to ORIs. There is more to anti sway bars than just controlling body roll. If they are saying that, then they are not understanding the full benefits of having connected front and rear sway bars.

My point is that ORIs, while a very neat and tidy suspension system when done well, are not some magical pathway to an amazing Jeep. They require the very same setup and detail as any other well sorted suspension.

Seriously spend some time understanding how to outboard the rear shocks on a traditional coil and shock suspension. The basic setup is nearly identical and the goals and principles for good performance are the same.

 

[toximus]

They say they switched from coil overs to ORI and it was the smoothest ride they have had.

That's because they don't know how to setup a coilover properly. It's a ton of work to get right and why a coil + shock is an easier and cheaper option.

 

[toximus]

Also they mentioned no limiting straps bump stops or anti rock needed.

Most shocks can be used as limit straps. Whatever method you do use, it still needs to limit down travel in order to prevent an over extension. ORIs don't magically change that fact.

The bump stops, wherever or whatever they are, still need to be correctly positioned to limit up travel in order to prevent interferences. ORIs don't magically change that fact.

I'm going to argue that if you have 7+ inches of uptravel and shocks properly tuned for it and don't plan on doing high speed desert aside from whoops to get to the trail you don't need bump stops. On my build I first had planned on not using bumpstops (using the shock as the hard stop). I only added them to allow for a slightly better tune on my shocks.

 

[Chris]

That's because they don't know how to setup a coilover properly. It's a ton of work to get right and why a coil + shock is an easier and cheaper option.

X2 to this. All the research I've been doing on coilovers (including reading a lot of what Blaine had to say on the matter), suggests that you can get coilovers to ride like shit, or you can get them to ride nice as hell. The problem is that no one ever puts in the time to getting the coilovers setup correctly, and therefore they'll never ride as good as they can.

I've also found that installing coilovers and doing it right is more than just a bolt-on affair. There's a lot of work to be done, and it's not like installing an off-the-shelf lift kit by any means.

You're opening a huge can of worms. Not that there's anything wrong with that, just be prepared that the rabbit hole you're about to go down is incredibly expensive and will take some serious work / skill to setup properly.

 

[toximus]

X2 to this. All the research I've been doing on coilovers (including reading a lot of what Blaine had to say on the matter), suggests that you can get coilovers to ride like shit, or you can get them to ride nice as hell. The problem is that no one ever puts in the time to getting the coilovers setup correctly, and therefore they'll never ride as good as they can.

I've also found that installing coilovers and doing it right is more than just a bolt-on affair. There's a lot of work to be done, and it's not like installing an off-the-shelf lift kit by any means.

You're opening a huge can of worms. Not that there's anything wrong with that, just be prepared that the rabbit hole you're about to go down is incredibly expensive and will take some serious work / skill to setup properly.

Exactly. And once you finally do get them bolted in just right, expect to have your coilovers off multiple times for sending them to a tuner, maybe a couple of tuning days (at $500 a pop), a few sets of springs, and your own filling setup.

 

[Chris]

Exactly. And once you finally do get them bolted in just right, expect to have your coilovers off multiple times for sending them to a tuner, maybe a couple of tuning days (at $500 a pop), a few sets of springs, and your own filling setup.

It definitely makes you understand how some of these guys can have 30k or more into their builds, that's for sure.

 

[jjvw]

I'm going to argue that if you have 7+ inches of uptravel and shocks properly tuned for it and don't plan on doing high speed desert aside from whoops to get to the trail you don't need bump stops. On my build I first had planned on not using bumpstops (using the shock as the hard stop). I only added them to allow for a slightly better tune on my shocks.

I'll counter by saying that mine has 6.5" front and 7" rear. I've come very close to reaching full bump on the road. I'd be nervous about using the shocks as the bump stop. Though, it is entirely possible that i'm not valved correctly. I'm still very fuzzy in that area.

 

[toximus]

I'll counter by saying that mine has 6.5" front and 7" rear. I've come very close to reaching full bump on the road. I'd be nervous about using the shocks as the bump stop. Though, it is entirely possible that i'm not valved correctly. I'm still very fuzzy in that area.

I honestly don't know enough about the tuning either for what to expect in that area.

 

[TJ_2000]

check this out. Not sure if it helps. But its something.

 

[RonnieS]

Take this with a grain a sand,

You at best could run ORI-8 the smallest which would not be enough down travel. A 5 inch lift at minimum is needed, for an idea a 3.5 inch lift will just ruin your up travel completely. By about 2 inches.
The length of ORI 8 at FULL COMPRESSION is 15.825", at this point you are already putting the perch through the frame of the tj and getting close to the computer on the left side of 2000+ M.Y. Tj's. A body lift actually would help here.

At this point the strut shaft is sticking out 5.1 inches minimum ( at ride height) to avoid bottoming out, and you are not yet at the desired ride height.
Your maximum travel with this ORI is 23.2" when your whole thing should be from frame to axle at somewhere roughly maybe about 23 inches with that 5 inch lift.
The ORI is too long for for our Tj's to be useful unless you have a 6inch+ lift then It could work very nicely, as it is it will be a high compromise of travel and would not work out well.
Basically ORI's are HUGE and need a lot of room for mounting, something like a dune buggy or custom frame or truck.

Part #	Travel	Full Extension	Full Compression	Piston Diameter	Piston Shaft Diameter	Mounting Bolt Diameter	Oil Volume	Weight (wet)
ORI-STX-08	8"	23.2"	15.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	9.7
ORI-STX-10	10"	27.2"	17.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	10.9
ORI-STX-12	12"	31.2"	19.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	12.2
ORI-STX-14	14"	35.2"	21.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	13.4
ORI-STX-16	16"	39.2"	23.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	14.6
ORI-STX-18	18"	43.2"	25.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	16
ORI-STX-20	20"	47.2"	27.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	17.2

http://oristruts.com/assets/oil-fill-chart-stx.pdf

 

[someguysjeep]

14's were fun to fit.

 

[jjvw]

Take this with a grain a sand,

You at best could run ORI-8 the smallest which would not be enough down travel. A 5 inch lift at minimum is needed, for an idea a 3.5 inch lift will just ruin your up travel completely. By about 2 inches.
The length of ORI 8 at FULL COMPRESSION is 15.825", at this point you are already putting the perch through the frame of the tj and getting close to the computer on the left side of 2000+ M.Y. Tj's. A body lift actually would help here.

At this point the strut shaft is sticking out 5.1 inches minimum ( at ride height) to avoid bottoming out, and you are not yet at the desired ride height.
Your maximum travel with this ORI is 23.2" when your whole thing should be from frame to axle at somewhere roughly maybe about 23 inches with that 5 inch lift.
The ORI is too long for for our Tj's to be useful unless you have a 6inch+ lift then It could work very nicely, as it is it will be a high compromise of travel and would not work out well.
Basically ORI's are HUGE and need a lot of room for mounting, something like a dune buggy or custom frame or truck.

Part #	Travel	Full Extension	Full Compression	Piston Diameter	Piston Shaft Diameter	Mounting Bolt Diameter	Oil Volume	Weight (wet)
ORI-STX-08	8"	23.2"	15.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	9.7
ORI-STX-10	10"	27.2"	17.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	10.9
ORI-STX-12	12"	31.2"	19.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	12.2
ORI-STX-14	14"	35.2"	21.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	13.4
ORI-STX-16	16"	39.2"	23.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	14.6
ORI-STX-18	18"	43.2"	25.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	16
ORI-STX-20	20"	47.2"	27.825"	2.0"	1.75"	1/2" or 5/8"	See Chart	17.2

http://oristruts.com/assets/oil-fill-chart-stx.pdf

@Chris should add these to the shock list

 

[someguysjeep]

I'm going to argue that if you have 7+ inches of uptravel and shocks properly tuned for it and don't plan on doing high speed desert aside from whoops to get to the trail you don't need bump stops. On my build I first had planned on not using bumpstops (using the shock as the hard stop). I only added them to allow for a slightly better tune on my shocks.

I don't have bump stops the last inch of the strut is cushioned.
And I'm not yet convinced of no sway their latest product is just that.

 

[Chris]

@Chris should add these to the shock list

Will do for sure!

 

[someguysjeep]

i have a stock 98 Tj I just picked up for my first build. I have been trying to search for information on strut length for a 5-6” lift and how much travel I should look for. I just keep finding threads that people just talk about liking the ori or switching to kings. No tech info

the ORI site has downloads for all kinds of info from open and closed lengths, to set-up and tuning.

the things have infinite adjustment. you can go from an air cushioned ride to rock hard stiff or any spot in between.
what they offer is simplicity over a CO, it's all there inside. the drawback is a failure could be more critical and it's a complicated internal sys.
cost is about similar, without the addition of shipping them off to be custom tuned and swapping springs 4x like CO's.
a CO is still kinda simple sys it's still a version of spring and a shock. it's just very compact and the twin springs allow a longer reach over a standard set-up.

ORI has no following here, nor does any type of air shock really. i use them, but it was a happinstance that i ended up with them, and all my fault to try and use um.

the works the same. tower or hoops and maybe some holes, all depends where you wanna push it. the 14" was a bitch to fit.
a 12 split middle stroke on about 4" of lift should function well but need a lot of work to accomplish.
then is the issue of 12 is on the teeter and less becomes a why spend the $? springs n shocks reach that.

 

[RonnieS]

the ORI site has downloads for all kinds of info from open and closed lengths, to set-up and tuning.

the things have infinite adjustment. you can go from an air cushioned ride to rock hard stiff or any spot in between.
what they offer is simplicity over a CO, it's all there inside. the drawback is a failure could be more critical and it's a complicated internal sys.
cost is about similar, without the addition of shipping them off to be custom tuned and swapping springs 4x like CO's.
a CO is still kinda simple sys it's still a version of spring and a shock. it's just very compact and the twin springs allow a longer reach over a standard set-up.

ORI has no following here, nor does any type of air shock really. i use them, but it was a happinstance that i ended up with them, and all my fault to try and use um.

the works the same. tower or hoops and maybe some holes, all depends where you wanna push it. the 14" was a bitch to fit.
a 12 split middle stroke on about 4" of lift should function well but need a lot of work to accomplish.
then is the issue of 12 is on the teeter and less becomes a why spend the $? springs n shocks reach that.

I agree ORI's are excellent, they can replace Coils Springs, Shocks, act as bumps stops and Hydraulic bump stops, replace axle straps, be tuned perfectly to the best of both on and off road ride, and even replace the sway bar if tuned so. ORI 12 would be the smallest that would work in the TJ without lifting the jeep too high, though with a lot of work too. I want to install ORI, they just aren't worth for work for my type of riding. For a grand each the quality is there but good shocks perform well at our lift heights too.

Also did you install them on the stock front shock mounts?

 

[someguysjeep]

Also did you install them on the stock front shock mounts?

no. mine are 14's. no way to fit them in any stock mounts and have usable up travel. and then i should mention i have wider JK axles, fitting this crap on TJ width would make it much harder to find space.

i used towers instead of hoops, because i was working below prime real estate i had to minimize intrusion.

 

[Willy2strikes]

A 6" lift is too tall for a TJ running 35s. Optimal for 35's is 5", like a 4" suspension lift plus a 1" body lift. You'll also need to install a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit into your transfer case and replace the factory rear driveshaft with a CV driveshaft to eliminate the major vibrations a 4" suspension lift will cause.

By the way, our TJs don't use struts. Our suspensions use a combination of separate coil springs and shock absorbers.

Avoid the temptation to go with a bolt-on long arm suspension. Their ads make them sound great but they're not. They are great however at getting hung up on rocks and trail obstacles.

Even homemade long arm kits are bolted on somehow? My tj has a bolt on 6inch full traction long arm kit wheeled for years in the Pacific Northwest the “busy wild” “Elbe hills” never one time have I ever been hung up on my long arms or the mounts?

 

[jjvw]

Even homemade long arm kits are bolted on somehow? My tj has a bolt on 6inch full traction long arm kit wheeled for years in the Pacific Northwest the “busy wild” “Elbe hills” never one time have I ever been hung up on my long arms or the mounts?

Full Traction is the most bolt-on of the bolt-on long arms.

FWiW, I've seen guys occasionally get hung up on short arms, too. Just because your LA hasn't, does not mean it isn't happening. Regardless, that is a low level criticism of long arms.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Even homemade long arm kits are bolted on somehow? My tj has a bolt on 6inch full traction long arm kit wheeled for years in the Pacific Northwest the “busy wild” “Elbe hills” never one time have I ever been hung up on my long arms or the mounts?

It's common for them to get hung up if your trails have big obstacles like virtually all my trails do.

This last time is my one claim to fame when my TJ made 4WD & Sport Utility from getting hung up on the rocks.