Oscillating Vibration

rraulston said:
Aaaand I'm back.... With news.... For the last several months, I have been driving with the front drive shaft disconnected. I got to where I could re-install it in about 5 minutes so it wasn't a big deal. A few posts earlier I indicated the new Tom Woods drive shaft had runout. I dove back into it last weekend and removed the drive shaft. I used a dial indicator on the front transfer case yolk and read .055 runout. So my thoughts were maybe the front yolk was out of round. I called Tom Woods and explained the situation. They said they could machine one up? and send it out. Ordered on Monday, received on Thursday. Installed this morning and guess what.... NO MORE VIBRATION! I mean really???! If it came from the factory like that, it never ran smooth. Here are the photos of the old one. Its a Spicer unit. What's interesting is the seal rides on the yolk dust shield and not the shaft. One last thing, anyone have the rear vibration damper that comes on a 241 transfer case?? Asking for a friend!! Thanks...

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Always good to hear someone solve their vibes. How much for the yolk from Tom woods? How difficult is the replacement swap?
 
Wtrask said:
I tried all of these things literally and actually had issues like a bent main shaft in the t case and a loose front pinion flange from the nut loosening. I have front and rear Tom woods shafts and SYE. I could never get it to drive without vibes over 70mph with the front shaft in. Glad you found an issue. I went the hub conversion route. I spent more trying to find the problem than I did on the hub conversion but I’m stubborn I guess? Atleast my jeep coasts down hill now that’s nice for traffic.
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I am interested in a hub conversion. Can you give me some details like who you went with etc.??! Thanks!!!!
 
I went with the Yukon gear kit. I went with the smaller hub kit so I wouldn’t have to change wheels or lug pattern. If you wheel your Jeep hard you may want the kit with larger hubs. I don’t wheel mine hard anymore it’s now more of a camp/overlanding rig that I take hunting and fishing.
 
d.markowski said:
I don’t. Guessing getting it perfectly straight +- a degree is gonna be pretty hard by eyeballin it. What do you suggest? I had a cheap magnetic one and I could never really find a place to measure from that’s perfectly flat...

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You should have the full weight of the vehicle on the ground and consider full gas tank and usual cargo load when setting pinion angle.
 
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