I could use some help with my 1998 Sport. The MIL came on and diagnostic code P0135 pops up, oxygen sensor bank 1. OK, so I buy one and install it, but the MIL is still on. Seems that it needs a drive cycle to clear it, but besides that outrageous procedure, you have to start with the MIL off, but mine is on. How do I turn it off? And, is the overly complicated drive cycle procedure actually necessary? I've seen several different ones, and they all seem pretty ridiculous.
P0135
- Thread starter Jackson1998TJ
- Start date
Here's 44 pages of info..
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-official-jeep-wrangler-tj-oxygen-o2-sensor-thread.4068/
What brand of sensor did you install?
Do you have a code reader that can read live ODB data? I use a $30 Bluetooth ODB dongle and the free Torque Lite app.
You can clear your PCM by disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for a couple of minutes.
-Mac
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-official-jeep-wrangler-tj-oxygen-o2-sensor-thread.4068/
What brand of sensor did you install?
Do you have a code reader that can read live ODB data? I use a $30 Bluetooth ODB dongle and the free Torque Lite app.
You can clear your PCM by disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for a couple of minutes.
-Mac
Mac, Wow 44 pages of info! Thanks so much. I installed a Walker sensor. Not sure about reading live ODB data on my reader since I just got it. Thanks for the info about clearing the light.
Here's the reader I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XGBKG8X?tag=wranglerorg-20
With the Torque Lite app you can read codes, reset codes and read live data... including voltages...which is a crude but effective means of determining if your senior is functioning... basically want it under .9v.
-Mac
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XGBKG8X?tag=wranglerorg-20
With the Torque Lite app you can read codes, reset codes and read live data... including voltages...which is a crude but effective means of determining if your senior is functioning... basically want it under .9v.
-Mac
You pretty happy with that one I guess? I have a friend who ordered the BlueDriver and I hate it compared to the one I have, which is the OBDLink CX ($79) but obviously yours is way cheaper.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. If the code comes back, you didn't fix the problem.
Yes but they're pretty fragile. Don't leave them plugged in 24/7. And for some reason they don't like flying through the cab and hitting things. Shrug.
One of these days I'm going to grow up and buy an expensive scanner. But there's so many choices...I don't like Chinese sourced computers/tablets...
-Mac
Mac, What's your take on the Walker O2 sensor that I installed in my 1998 Sport? I started reading the O2 Sensor thread, and one of the first things mentioned is to ONLY use NGK/NTK O2 sensors, which apparently have now been discontinued. You seem to be a great resource of information, although maybe when I get past page 1 on that thread, this question will be answered.
I've left mine plugged in for weeks at a time with no ill effects. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I found some NTK O2 sensors recently for my 03' on Amazon. I know someone who used Walker brand and didn't have any issues.
It’s always been recommended to go with NTK/NGK for the O2 sensors and many other brands have given people trouble. Now they seem to be disappearing, so get some while you can. If you replace 1 you might as well replace all 4 since the others are likely not far behind. If they are not available I’d be prone to try Mopar.
Well, I did that, and took a 30 mile test run, and not only didn't the MIL come back on, but my baby runs a WHOLE lot better! Seems like the Walker O2 sensor is doing its job.
Thanks for the help.