Parking brake on JK axle swap

What are people doing for the parking brake on a jk axle swap? I haven’t found a clear concise answer

You just have to hook up the cable to the brake in an acceptable manner. You can use the tj/lj cable and make a little adapter, or I used the 2dr jk and added a little stop on my axle tube to make it same setup as a jk.

Also, swap the calipers to the front if you’re already doing brake work
 
You just have to hook up the cable to the brake in an acceptable manner. You can use the tj/lj cable and make a little adapter, or I used the 2dr jk and added a little stop on my axle tube to make it same setup as a jk.

Also, swap the calipers to the front if you’re already doing brake work
It doesn’t seem super easy to use my LJ’s current cables but i’ll look into it. Do you have a picture of yours? I read that jk 2 door cables are still too long.

What needs to be done to swap calipers to the front? Swapping backingplates side to side?
 
It doesn’t seem super easy to use my LJ’s current cables but i’ll look into it. Do you have a picture of yours? I read that jk 2 door cables are still too long.

What needs to be done to swap calipers to the front? Swapping backingplates side to side?
I think the LJ cable has a loop end? I believe I saw @mrblaine make a small connector like a bicycle chain link and bolt it between each connection.

IMG_2596.jpeg

For the caliper flip you swap between sides as you say. I did this after busting the backing plate when I smacked a rock with my low hanging rear caliper.
 
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I think the LJ cable has a loop end? I believe I saw @mrblaine make a small connector like a bicycle chain link and bolt it between each connection.

View attachment 499997
For the caliper flip you swap between sides as you say. I did this after busting the backing plate when I smacked a rock with my low hanging rear caliper.

It isn't even that hard. Use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt and nut and simply bolt the rectangular loop to the round loop. Make sure that the direction of the cable pull doesn't side load the round loop or it will eventually break since it is hardened.

I spent an inordinate amount of time moving the front mounted calipers to the rear on a RJ 60. Otherwise the coil over mount is in the way of clean cable routing.
 
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It isn't even that hard. Use a 1/4" grade 8 bolt and nut and simply bolt the rectangular loop to the round loop. Make sure that the direction of the cable pull doesn't side load the round loop or it will eventually break since it is hardened.

I spent an inordinate amount of time moving the front mounted calipers to the rear on a RJ 60. Otherwise the coil over mount is in the way of clean cable routing.
A single bolt, good note, that’s about as easy as it gets lol.


My lower mounts are fairly inboard, as that moves outboard it does look like it would completely block access to the parking brake.
 
A single bolt, good note, that’s about as easy as it gets lol.


My lower mounts are fairly inboard, as that moves outboard it does look like it would completely block access to the parking brake.

I drilled a hole with a cable slot in the AR tab. This is how I lined it up to pull straight on the ring.
1707751878119.png


Added a washer to bring the tab to the correct thickness for the cable housing clips.
1707752015521.png


Calipers on the back side. It was fully cycled and articulated to make sure the calipers can't come into contact with the springs. Even with fully worn out brake pads.
1707752148971.png
 
I drilled a hole with a cable slot in the AR tab. This is how I lined it up to pull straight on the ring.
View attachment 500004

Added a washer to bring the tab to the correct thickness for the cable housing clips.
View attachment 500006

Calipers on the back side. It was fully cycled and articulated to make sure the calipers can't come into contact with the springs. Even with fully worn out brake pads.
View attachment 500007

Wow that is truly an elegant solution. Difference between shade tree (me) and professional (you) right there. It didn’t even occur to me the fatigue impact of pulling at an angle on that skinny little tab.
 
Wow that is truly an elegant solution. Difference between shade tree (me) and professional (you) right there. It didn’t even occur to me the fatigue impact of pulling at an angle on that skinny little tab.

The angle is not in the direction yours are pulling. The bad angle is towards and away from the axle tube. It can't handle much of that. Any twisting motion on the eyelet will break it eventually. It is designed to move "up and down" though. I just don't have that luxury with those housing ends that have been slotted to clear the lever. They have to go straight in and out as the cable moves.
1707766362407.png
 
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I drilled a hole with a cable slot in the AR tab. This is how I lined it up to pull straight on the ring.
View attachment 500004

Added a washer to bring the tab to the correct thickness for the cable housing clips.
View attachment 500006

Calipers on the back side. It was fully cycled and articulated to make sure the calipers can't come into contact with the springs. Even with fully worn out brake pads.
View attachment 500007

So should I move the brakes to the front of leave them at the back?