Part I: Adding Power Windows and Door Locks

T

T Crawford

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Messages
718
Location
PNW
I don't post that often but I figured I'd share a little details about my current project- I've had my 2006 Unlimited Rubicon since I bought it new in April 2007, I picked it up in Cottage Grove Oregon as one of the ones on the West Coast. Once I bought it I started throwing stuff at it that I wanted (I was single and have a good job) so it got some bumpers skid plates and mild OME lift- I've been happy with it for several years but getting married and having kids changes your priorities. Well now my kids are 8/9 and I'm getting tired of all the manual options, so I've decided to do the power windows and locks things. I checked the local usual places that do these and I felt they either wanted to much or I wasn't going to be happy with how they told me they would do it- (I'm also doing remote start but that's part 2). I only have 35K on the TJ and its a secondary vehicle- so I'm going to take my time doing this.

After researching a few things I had decided on SPAL Door locks and switch (I found some old stock- I'm happy I didn't wait much longer) I bought the 4 door kit and i'll use a DEI 824N Low compact actuator for the rear door.

For the windows I'm using the Electric Life TJ 2 door kit, I also ordered a separate switch set as I don't like how the kit wires the switches to where the door cranks use to be (I'm currently waiting on delivery of the plugs for these holes)

I've decided that I'm going to mount the 3 switches where the airbag shut off switch went for some of the early years. That brings me up to where I'm at today-

I've started on the passenger door and installed the lock actuator and the window motor and I've started to build my wiring bundle- I've decided I'm going to go a bit overboard and build this right the first time. I've picked up DT Waterproof connectors, good quality crimps, heat shrink tubing and anti-friction wire wrap.

I haven't decided how I'm going to secure the wires to the door but I will use the DT connectors on all connections and so I can take the doors off.

I'd love to see if any one has any feed back or suggestions on this as I think I have most of it figured out- I am also buying a fuse block that I haven't decided where I'm going to install at. I'm redoing any of the existing connections that aren't water proof- and redoing them I only want to get into the doors once so I'm working through the passenger side first while I wait to see if there is anything else I want/need to order.

IMG_0982.jpg


IMG_0983.jpg


IMG_0986.jpg


IMG_0988.jpg


IMG_0979.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01, Ante_Up, Chris and 1 other person
Very cool, thanks for sharing this.

I've seen several people install power locks and windows before. It certainly updates the TJ in terms of making it more modern, that's for sure.

Are you planning on doing heated seats? I can live without power windows and doors, but heated seats has become one of those creature comforts I love.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ4Jim
I did the power locks, I didn’t add any additional switches inside just have the fob or the original door locks. Used the connector below for removing the doors

3080486u01.jpg
 
Chris said:
Very cool, thanks for sharing this.

I've seen several people install power locks and windows before. It certainly updates the TJ in terms of making it more modern, that's for sure.

Are you planning on doing heated seats? I can live without power windows and doors, but heated seats has become one of those creature comforts I love.
Click to expand...

Funny you ask- I installed the Quadratech kit in the seats a while back when I had to repair the fold and tumble on the drivers side due to the kids breaking it- but I was waiting for a chance to wire everything else up- basically I needed to run positive cable to the battery and was waiting to do it- when I add the fuse block I'll add the heated seat wires and drill my center console for the heated seats and the window and door lock switches. I was going call that part 2 or 3, but I need to get the doors and windows useable again. Essentially doing this will bring the comforts up to most of the current cars.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Apparition said:
I did the power locks, I didn’t add any additional switches inside just have the fob or the original door locks. Used the connector below for removing the doors

View attachment 144989
Click to expand...
I considered that idea- after reading through some of the other threads on this- the SPAL 4 door kit uses 2 x 5 wires and 2 x 2 Wire actuators- the 5 wire will lock/unlock all doors if you wire them up originally I planned to do that, so both the passenger and driver door locked with open all locks, and then right now I'm doing it so that only the drivers side door lock will open all doors. That means the drivers side will have 7 wires and the passenger side will have 4 with the power windows- I have a bumper mounted 3rd brake light so I am planning on using the contacts on the rear door for that lock.

These are the connectors I'll use on the doors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKPBN8S/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And i'm redoing the connections inside the doors with these also.
 
T Crawford said:
I considered that idea- after reading through some of the other threads on this- the SPAL 4 door kit uses 2 x 5 wires and 2 x 2 Wire actuators- the 5 wire will lock/unlock all doors if you wire them up originally I planned to do that, so both the passenger and driver door locked with open all locks, and then right now I'm doing it so that only the drivers side door lock will open all doors. That means the drivers side will have 7 wires and the passenger side will have 4 with the power windows- I have a bumper mounted 3rd brake light so I am planning on using the contacts on the rear door for that lock.

These are the connectors I'll use on the doors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKPBN8S/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And i'm redoing the connections inside the doors with these also.
Click to expand...
Yeah all mine lock or unlock at the same time, including the tailgate. Two wires to each actuator.
 
I installed locks and window winders about 3 years ago. I think everything was Electric Life. You can just mount the window switches in a better location than the instructions show. Some people do not use cable to the doors and use contacts in the door frame. I suppose that is ok for the windows but you definitely want to be able to use the locks when the doors are open. That requires cables. I used some Molex connectors at the doors to allow them to be removed.

5B0C3FA9-FBF0-4C9C-A292-1BADF73878B3.jpeg


956E692C-EA49-444D-AFA6-65975D754578.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
TurboTJ said:
I installed locks and window winders about 3 years ago. I think everything was Electric Life. You can just mount the window switches in a better location than the instructions show. Some people do not use cable to the doors and use contacts in the door frame. I suppose that is ok for the windows but you definitely want to be able to use the locks when the doors are open. That requires cables. I used some Molex connectors at the doors to allow them to be removed.

View attachment 145012

View attachment 145014
Click to expand...
Your thread was where I got a lot of my ideas. I looked at the door contacts and decided I’d just just with wires for. Ow with a plug. It’s a lot of work to cut holes and do the contacts. Already not looking for ward to the under dash work
 
Top Bottom
Back