Part Number for Rubicon Dana 44 Locker Air Line?

01TJ-Blues

01TJ-Blues

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So after much searching and a useless dealer I am reaching out for some help. I have a Rubicon Dana 44 front axle that the air locker tubing is in need of being replaced. The small preformed air tube within the diff housing as a slice in it and I cannot seem to find the part number ANYWHERE.

If anyone knows who stocks this item or has the part number it would be greatly appreciated if you can share.


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I'm not sure you'll find a part number for that. My guess though is any sort of generic replacement tubing with the right shape would do the trick. Someone like @David Kishpaugh or @Jerry Bransford would know better than I would.

I know Dave would likely have a number of spares laying around too.
 
I got 25 feet of it at home depot and a couple of butt connectors so if I ever get a hole in the line while on the trail I can easily fix it.

I also suggest picking up a blood pressure valve and bulb as they use the same diameter tubing and if your pump goes you can pump the locker up with it and release the pressure. They are about $5-$10 on Amazon.
 
Sounds great guys. I have a roll of 3/16 tubing so that’s easy and I’ll just match up the internal tube. I swear I saw it somewhere but darned if I can find it now.


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I'm guessing this is the same thing I am seeing right now. My 04 rubicon lockers kick on, both front and rear indicators stay on for a little while, jeep will crawl up and def is locked up and then the front locker light starts flashing and I lose traction. I flip the switch to turn them off, and back on again and I'll get another 15-20 seconds of driving before the front flashes again and it unlocks. Sounds like just a hose issue. does the internal one wear before the external one? I think I'll start with the external line first and go from there. does it sound like a simple leak or am I just being hopeful?
 
2004TJruBicon said:
I'm guessing this is the same thing I am seeing right now. My 04 rubicon lockers kick on, both front and rear indicators stay on for a little while, jeep will crawl up and def is locked up and then the front locker light starts flashing and I lose traction. I flip the switch to turn them off, and back on again and I'll get another 15-20 seconds of driving before the front flashes again and it unlocks. Sounds like just a hose issue. does the internal one wear before the external one? I think I'll start with the external line first and go from there. does it sound like a simple leak or am I just being hopeful?
Click to expand...

Could be a couple things but if it initially locks, I doubt it's the hose. The hose doesn't typically not leak, then leak, then not leak, ....

Your compressor may be dying.

When my internal hose started leaking, it would not lock and the compressor ran continuously. I clamped the external hose with vise grips near the diff and the compressor would run and then stop when it got up to pressure. That told me the leak was inside the diff.

So is your compressor running continuously? If so, you probably have a leak. If the compressor is not running when it unlocks, probably the compressor or something related to it.
 
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g.hayduke said:
Could be a couple things but if it initially locks, I doubt it's the hose. The hose doesn't typically not leak, then leak, then not leak, ....

Your compressor may be dying.

When my internal hose started leaking, it would not lock and the compressor ran continuously. I clamped the external hose with vise grips near the diff and the compressor would run and then stop when it got up to pressure. That told me the leak was inside the diff.

So is your compressor running continuously? If so, you probably have a leak. If the compressor is not running when it unlocks, probably the compressor or something related to it.
Click to expand...
thanks! When I turn on the lockers with the engine off, I can hear it running constantly. I'm gonna grab tubing and a blood pressure pump to check the internal hose. hopefully can rule that out. the pump doesn't seem like it's too difficult to change out either, hopefully won't have to pay the $200 to buy it.
 
one other question, I can't seem to find a definitive answer, but when the lockers are engaged, and pumps have achieved 5psi, do the pumps shut off for the rest of the time lockers are on? my thought is that if the leak is really small, I could see it hitting 5psi, and if the leak is very small like at the clamp or something, it may fall slightly below causing it to kick on and off.

I have noticed if driving in the straight line with no throttle input, the locker stays on for much longer, it's only when I need to give it some oomph to get over an obstacle, it only stays on for a short time.

am I correct this is the Locker sequence:
4LO
flip locker switch (once for rear, twice for Front+Rear)
pump kicks on, puts pressure to locker - 5psi
once 5psi and gear mesh acheived, lockers are engaged (takes some movement occasionally light steering back and forth) -Dash indicators stay on for front/rear locker
Pump shuts off when engaged?
Pump remains off remainder of the time locked (assuming no leaks)?
 
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2004TJruBicon said:
am I correct this is the Locker sequence:
4LO
flip locker switch (once for rear, twice for Front+Rear)
pump kicks on, puts pressure to locker - 5psi
once 5psi and gear mesh acheived, lockers are engaged (takes some movement occasionally light steering back and forth) -Dash indicators stay on for front/rear locker
Pump shuts off when engaged?
Pump remains off remainder of the time locked (assuming no leaks)?
Click to expand...

Close but pumps will cycle as needed to maintain needed pressure. If you have a significant leak, they run constantly. If you have a small leak or some seepage, they will cycle as needed but lockers should remain locked even if you then turn off the engine. There is an alarm that will sound similar to leaving your lights on if you shut it off with either of the lockers engaged. If you parked it for a long period of time with a locker engaged, the pumps could drain the battery.
 
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g.hayduke said:
Close but pumps will cycle as needed to maintain needed pressure. If you have a significant leak, they run constantly. If you have a small leak or some seepage, they will cycle as needed but lockers should remain locked even if you then turn off the engine. There is an alarm that will sound similar to leaving your lights on if you shut it off with either of the lockers engaged. If you parked it for a long period of time with a locker engaged, the pumps could drain the battery.
Click to expand...
so if I had no leaks at all in my air supply line, there should be very little/no pump cycling correct? The bigger the leak, the more frequent they would cycle to a point where the pump stays running but no lock up is achieved?

I never leave them locked when I shut down the engine, only for the purpose of diagnosing this have I engaged the lockers with the engine off and key in on position. so it sounds like 90% chance I have a small leak, now to find if it's in the diff or on the main external line. thanks for your help!
 
Well I went and bought new 3/16 tubing, an air pressure valve, and hand pump to trouble shoot. It's pretty clear its in the diff, and most likely the front bladder (actuator)

1) I plugged in the hand pump first to try and lock the front manually. It engaged, but disengaged the same way as when the pump is on.
2) Swapped the pumps and put the rear pump on the front line, and had the same issue, while the front pump locked the rear locker no problem
3) put the pressure gauge on both front and rear pumps, both went to 5 PSI and then pulsed lightly after achieving that psi I assume to keep the pressure even?

still a chance it could be the small internal line, but I'm thinking its the bladder since it will fill and lock but then slowly lets air out faster than the pump can keep it locked.

If it's the bladder, I don't have an area to fix it at my condo, nor do I think I have the tools and experience to trust myself putting that rotating mass of metal gears back perfectly. So to the shop it will go in the next few months.... Gah. thanks for the help everyone!
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Just take the rubber hose to your local auto parts store or hardware store and match it up. It's just a common rubber hose, there's nothing unusual about it. :)
Click to expand...

There are 2 different types of hose that my local auto parts carries. (3/16"). They have fuel line which is rated for oil and fuel but the OD is much larger than the internal pressure hose, and they carry windshield wiper or vacuum hose which is about the same size but I don't know if it's oil rated etc. Which would you use JB?
 
g.hayduke said:
The factory uses 3/16" fuel line.

I would also recommend using fuel line.
Click to expand...
I think I'll need to find some fuel line that has a smaller OD because the fuel line from the auto parts store has a larger OD and won't bend very easy. I wish I could still get the prebent tube that is OEM. That's BS the way the discontinue parts like this. I really hate it when I can't get the proper parts.

I have no idea where to get the proper fuel line that has the same OD as factory.
 
I think I bought it from the dealer when they said the pre-bent OEM line was no longer available. I was already there trying to get the OEM hose and bought a couple feet. It worked perfectly. No issues.

It's just 3/16" fuel line. The OEM hose is stamped "3/16" fuel line". Don't overthink it. Simple fix.

Just make sure you get good quality gear lube in the correct viscosity to refill after replacing the hose.
 
I went to Home Depot to get mine, it's nothing special since the air pressure inside it will never be more than 5 psi. They have rolls of various sizes of rubber hose.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I went to Home Depot to get mine, it's nothing special since the air pressure inside it will never be more than 5 psi. They have rolls of various sizes of rubber hose.
Click to expand...

I found what I'm looking for at O'Reilly's. They have a small section of stuff for things like lawnmowers and leaf blowers with clear fuel tubing that is the correct ID and OD. I tried it and it doesn't kink. I put a small ty-wrap on the actuator side of the tubing but wasn't able to get anything to secure the upper part of the tube to the bulkhead fitting. It's really tight up against the diff housing. I tried wire and small ty-wraps. Couldn't get anything to secure it but I think I will hold since like you said it's only 5psi. I tried it a bunch of time with the compressor going and it didn't appear to move at all so I think it's all good.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Bud aka JeepDaddy
 
WWJeepDaddy said:
I found what I'm looking for at O'Reilly's. They have a small section of stuff for things like lawnmowers and leaf blowers with clear fuel tubing that is the correct ID and OD. I tried it and it doesn't kink. I put a small ty-wrap on the actuator side of the tubing but wasn't able to get anything to secure the upper part of the tube to the bulkhead fitting. It's really tight up against the diff housing. I tried wire and small ty-wraps. Couldn't get anything to secure it but I think I will hold since like you said it's only 5psi. I tried it a bunch of time with the compressor going and it didn't appear to move at all so I think it's all good.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Bud aka JeepDaddy
Click to expand...
image.jpg

3/16” lawn mower hose from Oreilly does fit. My hardline hitting broke so I used copper line and some compression fittings. Thought a pic would help. Great info. Appreciate it!
 
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