OP
We aren’t moving until April/May at the earliest, plus with family back in the valley we come often (plus I won’t be painting a rig anytime soon thereafter)
PC1P's 1998 Jeep TJ Build - "Ophelia"
- Thread starter pc1p
- Start date
Glad to hear it! I also have to have you weld the PSC brackets sometime soon. Assuming your welder can handle that?We aren’t moving until April/May at the earliest, plus with family back in the valley we come often (plus I won’t be painting a rig anytime soon thereafter)
OP
Yeah I need to weld mine too - we should figure out a weekend and get them both done. My 180A can weld that no issue!
Yeah that sounds like a plan to me, we should do that. I don’t think it would very difficult. Just get out the wheel wheel and the grinder and it would probably take an hour each.
OP
Since I've decided to sell my hardtop, I've been on the prowl for a for a decent soft top that will let me keep reasonably dry during winter months. I didn't want or need anything fancy - just something complete. I got lucky - there was a guy selling a factory Mopar "sun rider" top off of his 2006 TJR that he has owned since new. I paid a whopping $150!
The top has spent a total of 4 months in the sun and the rest of its life folded up in the garage. It's super clean and came with all tinted windows (in a Mopar box even!), the factory "boot", and a set of factory Mopar surrounds. The only thing he couldn't locate were the tailgate bar brackets and the Torx bolts that hold the soft top arms to the rollbar. Luckily, these are easily sourced on Amazon and they should be here this week. I also ordered a set of "muck seals" for the tub rail. My TJ came with a hardtop and soft uppers, so I went to the storage unit and grabbed them. A quick rinse of all the dust and a gentle scrub to check fit. Everything seems to fit as it should so I'll be able to take winter trips once the Hemi swap is done
The MT/R's are coming soon, so I'll be selling these Generals shortly. Hopefully GenRight ships my front 0" Boulder fenders soon so I can get that done. Once those are on, I can fit the sliders and then begin the 2-month Hemi swap and paint job process (fingers crossed!!)...
The top has spent a total of 4 months in the sun and the rest of its life folded up in the garage. It's super clean and came with all tinted windows (in a Mopar box even!), the factory "boot", and a set of factory Mopar surrounds. The only thing he couldn't locate were the tailgate bar brackets and the Torx bolts that hold the soft top arms to the rollbar. Luckily, these are easily sourced on Amazon and they should be here this week. I also ordered a set of "muck seals" for the tub rail. My TJ came with a hardtop and soft uppers, so I went to the storage unit and grabbed them. A quick rinse of all the dust and a gentle scrub to check fit. Everything seems to fit as it should so I'll be able to take winter trips once the Hemi swap is done
The MT/R's are coming soon, so I'll be selling these Generals shortly. Hopefully GenRight ships my front 0" Boulder fenders soon so I can get that done. Once those are on, I can fit the sliders and then begin the 2-month Hemi swap and paint job process (fingers crossed!!)...
OP
While I’m still waiting on some parts from Holley to start the Hemi swap, the fenders from GenRight finally arrived. They took a bit more work than I was expecting honestly. They are a new “Gen 3” design and have been updated to better accommodate GR’s boatsides. As a result, the bottom of the fender doesn’t sit flush with the bottom of the tub:
This is okay with me, since my slider will cover most of it - and they give small bolt on brackets to cover the visual gap for those people not running their boatsides. The changes do require some trimming of the lower edge of the pinch seam at the firewall:
And the slight shape change requires trimming of the inner fenders, especially in this corner:
With the 4" GR fenders off, I was also able to install the Savvy sliders...
Fitment is good after some tweaking and adjustments. After that, I turned to some other things, namely making some final tweaks to the inner fenders to accommodate the Hemi-compatible pillow block mount. Unfortunately, when I removed my pillow block I realized it was basically blown apart! The bearing was almost full seized up and the bushing on the end was cracked and popped off. I'll need to address this ASAP - seems like the only option is to buy a new shaft.
On a side note, a 37" MT/R just barely fits in the tub
I'm still waiting on some softtop parts to do the final install/fitment check. I need to completely drill and mount the inner fenders to the new GR's and she'll be just about ready to strip apart for paint and a Hemi!
This is okay with me, since my slider will cover most of it - and they give small bolt on brackets to cover the visual gap for those people not running their boatsides. The changes do require some trimming of the lower edge of the pinch seam at the firewall:
And the slight shape change requires trimming of the inner fenders, especially in this corner:
With the 4" GR fenders off, I was also able to install the Savvy sliders...
Fitment is good after some tweaking and adjustments. After that, I turned to some other things, namely making some final tweaks to the inner fenders to accommodate the Hemi-compatible pillow block mount. Unfortunately, when I removed my pillow block I realized it was basically blown apart! The bearing was almost full seized up and the bushing on the end was cracked and popped off. I'll need to address this ASAP - seems like the only option is to buy a new shaft.
On a side note, a 37" MT/R just barely fits in the tub
I'm still waiting on some softtop parts to do the final install/fitment check. I need to completely drill and mount the inner fenders to the new GR's and she'll be just about ready to strip apart for paint and a Hemi!
Have you looked that the Skinny Steering kit form Red Rock?
Red Rock Offroad :: Hemi Swaps :: Lift Kits :: Tires. TJ/LJ Skinny Steering Kit (redrock4wd.com)
Red Rock Offroad :: Hemi Swaps :: Lift Kits :: Tires. TJ/LJ Skinny Steering Kit (redrock4wd.com)
OP
I've seen it on one of the Red Rock build write-ups. For me, it's not an ideal solution as it's non-collapsible and requires welding (though obviously I'm not opposed to welding!).
The Holley part gives the same clearance as the 4-cyl mount and uses a factory shaft and bearing. It's generally my preference to use OEM parts when possible - plus it was super cheap:
https://www.holley.com/products/eng...s/engine_and_transmission_mounts/parts/BHS520
No worries we each have our wants and needs. I melted my pillow block so I was looking for ways to move it sway from the exhaust as much as possible. And I have/had the 4cyl mount since mine was a SE.
I looked for a new shaft from a lot of places this summer and everyone was out of stock. Hopefully that has changed now.
I looked for a new shaft from a lot of places this summer and everyone was out of stock. Hopefully that has changed now.
Nice score on the top! I found a similar deal a year ago. My OEM top was still in decent shape but I'd been searching for tinted windows since mine weren't. Came across an owner of a 2006 Rubicon that didn't like soft tops and had only used it once since new. It was also the Sun Rider version with tinted windows. Bought the top for $200 and sold my other top for more than that. 'New' top, tinted windows and I actually like the Sun Rider feature. Winner, winner!Since I've decided to sell my hardtop, I've been on the prowl for a for a decent soft top that will let me keep reasonably dry during winter months. I didn't want or need anything fancy - just something complete. I got lucky - there was a guy selling a factory Mopar "sun rider" top off of his 2006 TJR that he has owned since new. I paid a whopping $150!
View attachment 215761
The top has spent a total of 4 months in the sun and the rest of its life folded up in the garage. It's super clean and came with all tinted windows (in a Mopar box even!), the factory "boot", and a set of factory Mopar surrounds. The only thing he couldn't locate were the tailgate bar brackets and the Torx bolts that hold the soft top arms to the rollbar. Luckily, these are easily sourced on Amazon and they should be here this week. I also ordered a set of "muck seals" for the tub rail. My TJ came with a hardtop and soft uppers, so I went to the storage unit and grabbed them. A quick rinse of all the dust and a gentle scrub to check fit. Everything seems to fit as it should so I'll be able to take winter trips once the Hemi swap is done
The MT/R's are coming soon, so I'll be selling these Generals shortly. Hopefully GenRight ships my front 0" Boulder fenders soon so I can get that done. Once those are on, I can fit the sliders and then begin the 2-month Hemi swap and paint job process (fingers crossed!!)...
OP
For sure and I definitely appreciate you bringing it up - sometimes you don't know what you don't know! Your experience is interesting - you're running a Magnum right? With headers I assume or manifolds? How close was the exhaust to the pillow block? I'll make a note to measure my clearance once I get it in there... I'm hoping to avoid running headers and have been trying to find a set of early Hemi Grand-Cherokee manifolds. No one that I've seen up to this point has reported issues with melting the pillow block but this is something I'll certainly have to keep in mind!
I'm running block hugger headers.
I don't think I have any pictures of the headers space between them & the pillow block but I'll look for you.
Yes a Dodge Magnum 5.2 . I do think I had a tune issues from day 1. I think it was always running rich and HOT.
15 years ago there wasn't the options available like now for tuning and diagnosing. I was running rich enough that I clog a brand new cat in 3 years. Plus a ton of other problems.
Here are the two I've got of it melted. I'll look to see if I have any with the engine installed.
OP
The new fenders are on, inner fenders are secured, and the new Mopar intermediate steering shaft I ordered should be here next week. I wrapped up trimming the front of the slider base plates and still need to clearance the rear. In order to check the clearance in the rear, I need some more room in the garage, so I am focusing on a few things this weekend to get it cleared out.
I've been working on getting the final parts for the Hemi swap and hope to start the tear down the last weekend of Jan.
The motor I got had some damage - likely from the removal - of the intake manifold. Luckily, I found a same-year replacement and the guy even had an engine cover for it - a good score for $120, considering a new replacement would have run me $600!
I have learned a lot about the Gen 3 Hemi engines and in particular about the truck VVT Eagle engines and will share that info in a separate post once I have worked through a few of the details.
I can't wait for an automatic and proper engine in the rocks
I've been working on getting the final parts for the Hemi swap and hope to start the tear down the last weekend of Jan.
The motor I got had some damage - likely from the removal - of the intake manifold. Luckily, I found a same-year replacement and the guy even had an engine cover for it - a good score for $120, considering a new replacement would have run me $600!
I have learned a lot about the Gen 3 Hemi engines and in particular about the truck VVT Eagle engines and will share that info in a separate post once I have worked through a few of the details.
I can't wait for an automatic and proper engine in the rocks
OP
Picked up a set of Allied/Raceline Rock 8 beadlocks yesterday for a ridiculously low price... They of course have the obligatory green (and a single red) beadlock ring - I'm not sure why anyone paints anything that god awful color, but for the price they could be glitter paint for all I care!
I wanted a spare set so I could run something more appropriate for a winter compound/tread (Duratracs perhaps?) after we move up north. These may come in handy for painting the Jeep in the upcoming weeks... if anyone in AZ knows of someone selling a good set of A/T's in 35x12.5, feel free to send them my way
I wanted a spare set so I could run something more appropriate for a winter compound/tread (Duratracs perhaps?) after we move up north. These may come in handy for painting the Jeep in the upcoming weeks... if anyone in AZ knows of someone selling a good set of A/T's in 35x12.5, feel free to send them my way
OP
I got the wheels scrubbed and rings repainted...
I threw a spare American Racing center cap in there just to see how it looks with the chrome cap. I think I'm going to order some for these...
I gotta admit - I'm having a "Come to Jesus" moment with my TJ. The more I map it all out, the more I think I really just want to build it as capable as possible around a set of 35"s as a good Jack-of-All-Trades desert/western rig.
I spent all weekend thinking about it and have come back to the same basic setup:
- 35" MT/Rs on the beadlocks above
- 99"-100" WB
- V8/auto conversion
- 4-link the rear, possibly convert to 12" coilovers
- 3-link the front, keeping the coils but C/O's possible, moving mounts to get a good 50/50 travel bias to take full advantage of the hi-fender
- narrow body (already done)
The 37" MT/Rs I just bought will get moved to the RamCharger (which is what I wanted to run anyways) and I'll sell the 17" BattleBorn Bootlegger Beadlocks shortly (wow, didn't realize how much of a tongue twister that was!). I have a GM 14B just sitting here that I was going to use for my YJ build but that will get put under the RC now (RC is sitting on a Dana 60/60 combo as I was just going to run 33"s at one point). I already have a Detroit for the front, but I'll have to get a set of 5.38's to match the 14B now. Probably a good time to upgrade to 9/16" lug nuts for the front and add some CM shafts too (maybe 35-spline outers).
The rain this past weekend and the rain coming this next weekend are putting me behind, but I expect to still get the Hemi swap and paint job done by the end of March. That should give me 2 solid months to work out any bugs from the install before we move the family up to Flagstaff!
I threw a spare American Racing center cap in there just to see how it looks with the chrome cap. I think I'm going to order some for these...
I gotta admit - I'm having a "Come to Jesus" moment with my TJ. The more I map it all out, the more I think I really just want to build it as capable as possible around a set of 35"s as a good Jack-of-All-Trades desert/western rig.
I spent all weekend thinking about it and have come back to the same basic setup:
- 35" MT/Rs on the beadlocks above
- 99"-100" WB
- V8/auto conversion
- 4-link the rear, possibly convert to 12" coilovers
- 3-link the front, keeping the coils but C/O's possible, moving mounts to get a good 50/50 travel bias to take full advantage of the hi-fender
- narrow body (already done)
The 37" MT/Rs I just bought will get moved to the RamCharger (which is what I wanted to run anyways) and I'll sell the 17" BattleBorn Bootlegger Beadlocks shortly (wow, didn't realize how much of a tongue twister that was!). I have a GM 14B just sitting here that I was going to use for my YJ build but that will get put under the RC now (RC is sitting on a Dana 60/60 combo as I was just going to run 33"s at one point). I already have a Detroit for the front, but I'll have to get a set of 5.38's to match the 14B now. Probably a good time to upgrade to 9/16" lug nuts for the front and add some CM shafts too (maybe 35-spline outers).
The rain this past weekend and the rain coming this next weekend are putting me behind, but I expect to still get the Hemi swap and paint job done by the end of March. That should give me 2 solid months to work out any bugs from the install before we move the family up to Flagstaff!
OP
@Wildman what you running now?
I don't want to comp-cut this thing to hit ~104-105" to make 37"+ worth it - I'm much more inclined to build a buggy or go with a non-Rubi LJ (preferably one with an ECM problem so I can get it on the cheap lol) as the base platform.
Truth be told, the Mrs. is already asking me what "projects" I'm willing to take on in our new house and we haven't even found one yet lol... I don't want either of these rigs to be down for too long and would rather work on building my shop over the next 2 years than working on suspension geometry inside a small 2-car garage.
On a related note, I've been give the go ahead to have a designer update this garage/casita plan to match our overall house design (whatever it happens to be) as well as extend the bay on the left to the roof so as to be able to run a tall lift Plenty of room for out-of-town guests and my toys!
I don't want to comp-cut this thing to hit ~104-105" to make 37"+ worth it - I'm much more inclined to build a buggy or go with a non-Rubi LJ (preferably one with an ECM problem so I can get it on the cheap lol) as the base platform.
Truth be told, the Mrs. is already asking me what "projects" I'm willing to take on in our new house and we haven't even found one yet lol... I don't want either of these rigs to be down for too long and would rather work on building my shop over the next 2 years than working on suspension geometry inside a small 2-car garage.
On a related note, I've been give the go ahead to have a designer update this garage/casita plan to match our overall house design (whatever it happens to be) as well as extend the bay on the left to the roof so as to be able to run a tall lift
Plenty of room for out-of-town guests and my toys!
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I started out with Hummer 8 bolt wheels that I cut the center out of and welded in new centers.
And added 38x12.5x16.5 TSL SX tires which measure out o be about 37" tall.
Had some issues with the centers so I switched out to some rims made by StazWorks.
Those SX tires are weather checked so I bought 36x13.5x16.5 IROCK's this summer which actually measure out to be about the same size as the SX tires. These are the StazWorks rims.
And a comparison between the SX & IROK both mounted on the same rims.
And the IROCK on the StazWorks rim. This is why I only stretched my rear back 4.5". I can still run a Metal Cloak flare which keep me street legal in places that require them.
(3) Stazworks Dual Beadlock Wheels | Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum
And added 38x12.5x16.5 TSL SX tires which measure out o be about 37" tall.
Had some issues with the centers so I switched out to some rims made by StazWorks.
Those SX tires are weather checked so I bought 36x13.5x16.5 IROCK's this summer which actually measure out to be about the same size as the SX tires. These are the StazWorks rims.
And a comparison between the SX & IROK both mounted on the same rims.
And the IROCK on the StazWorks rim. This is why I only stretched my rear back 4.5". I can still run a Metal Cloak flare which keep me street legal in places that require them.
(3) Stazworks Dual Beadlock Wheels | Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum
OP
@Wildman - Got ya! I took a few glances at your build thread but looks like I gotta find a rainy day to go through the entire build as I think we have similar end results in mind
Rear is a TeraLow (now TeraFlex) CRD60 rear and a Ford HP44 that has been narrowed to Wagoneer width for ease of finding axle shafts. 5.13 gears with ARB lockers in both. Rear axle is a semi-float configuration.