Pitman Arm Question & Bump Steer

[BobbyA1]

time for some maintenance on that steering linkage. the adjuster is rotted, the TRE on the pitman looks sloppy. somebodys been crankin the TR with a pipe wrench............... i'd start with a steer test in the driveway. .

tell santa you want a currectlync.

currectlync looked it it was around $six hondo. Anything else you might recommend (Tie Rod, Drag Link, Stabilizer Kit) that is a level down price wise, but still reliable or good reputation?

Planning to get a kit, install it myself and then take it to shop for 4-wheel alignment.

Also going to remove these 1.5" Rough Country Wheel Spacers in favor of 1-inch spacers.

 

[PFPJeep]

You may want to take a read through this thread.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-tie-rod-conversion.2373/

 

[BobbyA1]

You may want to take a read through this thread.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-tie-rod-conversion.2373/

To you sir, I raise a glass and toast to damn good information! This is exactly what i needed, it's budget friendly yet clearly better (more solid) parts and best of all I use Amazon all day long, it is very reliable for tracking, delivery and returns should you ever need. Hell they give you the refunds when bad things happen, the moment your return label is scanned. Cheers!

 

[AndyG]

Good idea and suggestion, do as advised and see if it extends out on its own after removing the driver's side mounting bolt. If it does that means it is gas-charged and you need to change it to the OE type hydraulic which does not extend out on its own. Gas-charged can make your steering want to drift toward the left. Doing that wouldn't cure bump steer but if your Jeep wants to drift toward the left it will likely cure that.

I bled the gas off on my fox.

You may need way more caster if it is not tracking good- and you need to check your front hub unit bearings...they matter.

TJ’s were designed for good road manners- many have been modified to the point all the factory geometry has gone out the window.

 

[BobbyA1]

I bled the gas off on my fox.

You may need way more caster if it is not tracking good- and you need to check your front hub unit bearings...they matter.

TJ’s were designed for good road manners- many have been modified to the point all the factory geometry has gone out the window.

I wouldn't mind replacing them, is it a difficult (DIY?)

 

[BobbyA1]

I wouldn't mind replacing them, is it a difficult (DIY?)

I bled the gas off on my fox.

You may need way more caster if it is not tracking good- and you need to check your front hub unit bearings...they matter.

TJ’s were designed for good road manners- many have been modified to the point all the factory geometry has gone out the window.

Detroit Axle a reliable brand?

 

[AndyG]

Be persistent- in most any tire size / lift scenario you can still get fantastic driving out of these- you have to have good, well balanced tires- and there are over 40 bushings under a TJ- everything has to be in good shape and any changes the lift made have to be compensated for- It can be a little elusive and intimidating for a new owner but if you’ll take the time to understand how everything works underneath you will know what you’re looking for and you will be both better qualified to work on it and fare better with shops.

 

[AndyG]

Detroit Axle a reliable brand?

I don’t know who is who right now but I believe Timken is one of the bigger names- Just lift each wheel off the ground and try to move it side to side and top to bottom if you feel movement and then you have sloppy bearings that are allowing it to float all over the road-

I’m not trying to be discouraging but most of the time it will be several things going on with one of these- This is why I say to be persistent-

Here is a good example-

I had a bad upper control arm bushing , a loose track bar, worn unit bearings, and two bad tie rod ends on a TJ Rubi that I had-everything you fix will give you an improvement but you will not get the drive that is possible until everything is in hood shape- That does not mean you have to drive a new one up underneath it but you have to chase down everything that is sloppy or out of adjustment- And you will know it will be on any shot of the doubt when you get it right because you’re going down the road at 70 or 75 miles an hour with 2 fingers, And the jeep will just be a pleasure to drive.

 

[BobbyA1]

Be persistent- in most any tire size / lift scenario you can still get fantastic driving out of these- you have to have good, well balanced tires- and there are over 40 bushings under a TJ- everything has to be in good shape and any changes the lift made have to be compensated for- It can be a little elusive and intimidating for a new owner but if you’ll take the time to understand how everything works underneath Do you know what you’re looking for and you will be both better qualified to work on it and fare better with shops.

Sincere thanks! Purchased this TJ a few months ago - it was very much neglected (real bad), but at $4300 I thought it a great value. I started with working on the engine and interior and was saving the chassis for last. My sense is you're right, many of the bushings are probably 20 years old and need replaced.

On the engine I replaced the Radiator, Condenser, AC Lines, AC Compressor (that was a knuckle busting job as my AC Compressor is down below the Power Steering Unit) 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. Also installed new Alternator, Starter, Battery Lines with HD MilSpec, Blower Motor Fan, Water Pump, Thermostat & Housing, All New Silicone Hoses, Radiator Fan & Fan Clutch, Fan Shroud, New Rocker Arms & Push Rods, Coil Pack, Spark Plugs, Serpentine Belt, Pulley & Tensioner, Fuel Tank Skid Plate, Fuel Pump, Fuel Tank EVAP Line, EVAP Solenoid, Valve Cover, Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and several other sensors in the engine and AC system suction and discharge lines. Added new Freon, new AC Switch, Blower Motor Resistor, Relays, etc....

Long story short, it's been quite a journey so far (enclosing a few photos to share that experience) The chassis is next and it is one of those things that has been a mystery to me, always been an engine guy, don't know much about the suspension stuff. Sure appreciate the forum, very helpful!

 

[AndyG]

You’re going to be fine...You are going all out.

 

[John Cooper]

Detroit Axle a reliable brand?

They are a hit and a miss, I got ford f150 unit bearings from them and they lasted 50,000 miles while I had the truck and were still good when I sold it. A buddy got some for his f150 and had to replace them within 7000 miles.