Please Learn From My Lack of Proper Insurance Coverage (Please Read)

A dimple die alters the area moment of inertia to make the material more rigid. It's like a I-beam is far stiffer and more resistant to buckling than a plate. An even more simple example is picking up a piece of pizza. If you hold it flat the skinny end droops even to the point of hanging vertical, but you put a little "V" bend in the pizza, side to side, it will stay flat such that you can take a bite almost straight on with the pizza. So a dimple die bends a lip around the circle that is out of plane of the sheet metal thus making it more rigid and for thin aluminum sheet like that used in the wheelwell it can make it a lot quieter (a higher natural frequency) and more resistant to deflecting as well.
The pizza analogy did it for me, thanks.
 
A dimple die alters the area moment of inertia to make the material more rigid. It's like a I-beam is far stiffer and more resistant to buckling than a plate. An even more simple example is picking up a piece of pizza. If you hold it flat the skinny end droops even to the point of hanging vertical, but you put a little "V" bend in the pizza, side to side, it will stay flat such that you can take a bite almost straight on with the pizza. So a dimple die bends a lip around the circle that is out of plane of the sheet metal thus making it more rigid and for thin aluminum sheet like that used in the wheelwell it can make it a lot quieter (a higher natural frequency) and more resistant to deflecting as well.

Best explanation ever.
A bead roller does basically the same thing without the holes. Just puts a "ridge" in the metal to help keep it from flexing.

Definitely going for pizza at lunchtime today.
 
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The pizza analogy did it for me, thanks.
I'm glad since most don't quite get how an I beam works or why they are a very neat way to do things. The main way you can tell we fully ignore that concept is how we repair frames after we cut them up. They are essentially a beam, and like an I beam, the top and bottom flanges are what prevent the webs from distorting or dislocating. Yet when we cut a frame, we spend our efforts reinforcing the web with fish plates and internal backers while fully ignoring the flanges.
 
At one point in my life I had a motorcycle and full coverage was so expensive that I could buy the bike brand new after a couple of years, so I opted out and went for the minimum and though the bike was stolen I actually paid less by not having the insurance.

I do probably need to up my insurance for my Jeep and my truck, but I'm always a bit hesitant because of how rare collisions/thefts are in my area and the additional costs associated with the increased coverage. I keep a high amount for injury, but paying for insurance is a gamble.

What is confusing now is that prices have doubled on these vehicles used and I'm just not sure what to value these at. Also the truck is almost completely stock so I'm not sure the best method and the Jeep is the opposite and heavily modified. I'm also at a point where if I lost both I wouldn't be devastated or ruined, so I'm not really sure paying any extra is really a good investment.

Though I've spent a BUNCH of money on my Jeep it's maybe worth $20k because times are crazy (typically I think it would be worth ~$15k). Would I take that? Nope, and I don't ever want to sell. I figure to insure the Jeep so I could rebuild it it would be ~$50-$100/month. The odds of me causing a collision are low considering I've been driving for over 2 decades and scratched the paint once on a vehicle when I first started driving. When I've been hit by vehicles they paid to replace what I had and I log vehicle repairs and maintain receipts. If they didn't replace everything or the driver was under insured, I'd just have to eat it I guess, but wouldn't be ruined financially. And the vehicle damage is often minimal compared to the price of the medical. A few days in the ER and a surgery or 2 was like over $100k. Not being able to work for months is another issue, that's much more costly than the vehicle IMO.

However, if I go somewhere where thefts or collisions are high, I tend to not take my Jeep and I try to refrain from those areas in general.
 
I'm glad since most don't quite get how an I beam works or why they are a very neat way to do things. The main way you can tell we fully ignore that concept is how we repair frames after we cut them up. They are essentially a beam, and like an I beam, the top and bottom flanges are what prevent the webs from distorting or dislocating. Yet when we cut a frame, we spend our efforts reinforcing the web with fish plates and internal backers while fully ignoring the flanges.
An I-Beam is really a thing of beauty. Just like you say, everything you need nothing you dont! The placement of the vertical web in the middle really makes a huge difference too, I-beam vs C-channel.
 
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Thanks for this... Really sorry that happened to you, but this is kinda the motivation I needed. I posted about ways to insure a modified Jeep but haven't followed through. Now I'm determined to get better insurance before it gets back on the road. I really hope you end up not getting screwed by insurance.
 
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So why do we keep fixing the web instead of the flanges?
Do you mean repairing the bottom of the tube due to rust? Probably because its not easy as a fish plate on the side? Most of us copy what you do so if you show us the right thing to do we will likely follow suit!

I know I as happy to add the coilover brace on my front end in hopes to stiff it up torsionally. I had been fighting death wobble before that was questioning if lateral flexibility in the frame was partly to blame.
 
In this case, it may actually be worth consulting with an attorney. Regardless of your own property coverage, the other party is obligated to make you whole. You could have liability-only coverage, but if the other party is at fault, they are required to pay for damages. That said, they will argue what that amount is to make you whole. Your insurance will generally only argue up to what they think is a reasonable number, which may or may not necessarily reflect reality. Beyond that they see no additional return for themselves to get you anything additional.

An attorney (hired by the affected driver, rather than insurance) may be able to successfully argue that the amount of money required to make the affected driver whole is more than what the insurance companies have calculated with their general formulas.

At a very minimum, if I were in this case, I would pay the initial consult fee to at least speak with a property damage lawyer to see if it would be economically feasible to pursue the full loss as opposed to what the insurance companies settle on. The consult fee is usually $50-150, depending upon the attorney. The additional amount recovered may be significantly higher.

In this case, the attorney would take responsibility for negotiations over the affected’s insurance, and the affected’s insurance would probably wash their hands of the matter. Unlike the affected’s insurance, the attorney does in fact have a reason to go for the whole loss amount, rather than just a rudimentarily calculated value.

If the affected had only liability-only insurance, their methods of recourse would either be to negotiate with the other driver’s insurance (and/or the driver itself) for a settlement, or hire an attorney to drive the process. The presence of personal property insurance for the affected typically does not preclude the previous methods of recourse, though once a settlement is reached in any means, other avenues are closed.
 
Any place around that can properly appraise it for its real value? Then you can get around trying to prove its value with receipts.
In my head any appraisal process would want receipts to get a ground basis, which is fine by me. I've been on the hunt for someone to appraise it and will follow up soon.

But it would be nice to a written quote from an appraiser to fight the insurance adjuster with.
 
Thanks for the eye opener, sorry you had to be our canary in the coal mine.
As soon as this started turning into a mess, I knew I had to tell anyone that would listen. These older Wranglers are getting harder harder to find and the market value and KBB/NADA values do not match. Add heavy modifications in the mix and it makes it even more off.
 
I would say that most if not all insurance isn’t going to cover off-road damage. As far as mods go, I think what they are saying is they won’t insure a heavily modified vehicle that is for off-road use. I’ve already seen others get denied from hagerty when they say they will be used for off-roading.

At this point I have stated value at 30k on it, doesn’t matter what mods I have, if it gets totaled, I’ll get 30k.
I get not covering off-road damage, but if I have a YJ or TJ that has been engine swapped and axle swapped, I'm going to want to drive it down the road on Sunday mornings. I will be getting the same type of coverage that you have a soon I close the current claim before I get behind the wheel again. .
 
I would say that most if not all insurance isn’t going to cover off-road damage. As far as mods go, I think what they are saying is they won’t insure a heavily modified vehicle that is for off-road use. I’ve already seen others get denied from hagerty when they say they will be used for off-roading.

At this point I have stated value at 30k on it, doesn’t matter what mods I have, if it gets totaled, I’ll get 30k.
I guess my point was that I wouldn't claim anything that happens off road. And if I drive it on-road to hit some trails, it would be nice to have the proper coverage for the value of the Jeep.