That requires 3 things I happen to be in short supply of. 8 balls, meth heads, and patience. Other than that, no problem.
Power upgrades for heavy winching?
- Thread starter PNW_LJ
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That requires 3 things I happen to be in short supply of. 8 balls, meth heads, and patience. Other than that, no problem.
Ok...so I have sins I need to fix on my dump trailer...both my HF 9500 winch and hydraulic pump are chassis grounded. I'm thinking aluminum bus bars. I looked up that a 1/2" by 1" bar of aluminum will conduct 466 amps. And 18' of of 6061 bar is $60...which is significantly cheaper than copper. I have plenty of short copper scrap pieces I can use to jumper from the bar to winch/pump and battery. The bar can be surface mounted to the steel chassis.
Am I crazy? Stupid question. Does this sound like a realistic solution? Working on replacing both batteries...who knew 7 year old interstates won't hold much of a charge.
-Mac
P.S. Yes I know I'd need no ox grease on the copper/aluminum connectors.
Am I crazy? Stupid question. Does this sound like a realistic solution? Working on replacing both batteries...who knew 7 year old interstates won't hold much of a charge.
-Mac
P.S. Yes I know I'd need no ox grease on the copper/aluminum connectors.
Unless there's a "situation" that I'm not aware of from your pix, the actual chassis will conduct more current than the bus bar - steel isn't as good of a conductor per cross section as aluminum, but there's a lot more of it (I'm assuming). With that said, the real issue with grounding high current loads to the chassis is making a GOOD high current ground - AND - keeping said ground free of corrosion, which can be problematic and its a single point of failure. That's why I have both a chassis ground AND a direct to negative cable on my Jeep winch.
So my gut says if you feel you can make a better connection to the bus bar than the chassis, by all means go with the bus bar - and you won't hurt anything in any event. You'll still have the chassis ground in addition. Either way, make a good ground stackup with star washers, flat washers, and keep it clean and dry.
So my gut says if you feel you can make a better connection to the bus bar than the chassis, by all means go with the bus bar - and you won't hurt anything in any event. You'll still have the chassis ground in addition. Either way, make a good ground stackup with star washers, flat washers, and keep it clean and dry.
I'm not sure what's wrong with using the chassis for grounding, but aluminum conducts well. Better that copper by weight.
Aluminum oxide is a very poor conductor, so getting good connections is key.
Aluminum oxide is a very poor conductor, so getting good connections is key.