Prepping for axle swap

[DaYooperTransplant]

Hello,
First time posting here, but I have been lurking since I bought my first ever Jeep back about 6 months ago. I have used the forum to do some repairs and PM… from the heater core (fun job), to alignment, to an under-hood lamp. While changing rear diff oil, I found a sheared off bolt that had chewed things up a bit, and all the ring bolts were loose. No noise or slipping, but a few of the teeth had some visible damage. @Squatch helped me find a matching set of Dana 30/Dana 35 4:10’s (currently have 3:07) and I am getting ready to do the swap. From all I’ve read it’s straight forward. But I do have some questions I would like to get answers/opinions on.
Except for brakes (used axles have brand new rotors/calipers/shoes) I am going to replace shocks, all u-joints and control arms. The sway bar link boots are all dry rotted and cracked so I will replace those too, and anything else that appears worn as I start removing. Per the pictures attached, I believe I have a 2” lift in the front, and the rear is stock.

Is it worth putting a spacer in the rear springs? When I order the Rancho shocks, do I get the ones for 2-3” lift, or will stock shocks work? Confusing for me, as I do not have a 2” lift in the rear, only front.

Stock control arms should be fine, right? I plan on keeping the 32”’s and no more lift. I like the looks of it now. In the “A Beginners guide to lifting your Jeep Wrangler TJ” it suggests you have upper rear adjustable control arms and a DC driveshaft, or transfer case drop. Do not have neither now, should I?

The steering stabilizer, should that be replaced too? Rancho has one for under $50, so not too bad.

Any other things you think may be important for me to do or know going into this axle swap, do tell.

Thanks!

Thanks

 

[pagrey]

You have some "not stock" looking suspension parts. It is possible your axle housing or knuckles were drilled or modified to fit that steering setup and you might have to do the same thing to the new axle. Maybe somebody with more experience could identify what you have? Stock control arms and bushings are fine, sometimes rockauto.com has good prices on them. I wouldn't worry about my stabilizer until it started to leak but I'm sure opinions vary on that.

 

[danof76]

I'm not up on measurements for the springs to be able to determine lift height but if I were you I'd keep the control arms you have and not replace them unless they're damaged, even then get OE ones unless you have the scratch to upgrade right now. I only advise against it because I think your money would be better spent right now on focusing on other components. Also, I personally have 2" OME HD lift and have all stock CAs without any issues on my 2000 TJ Sport. If you're doing a tummy tuck or going higher you should consider new adjustable arms here or there.

That being said, if you can solidly determine you have 2" springs in the front and 0" in the rear I'd invest in some new rear springs, Ranchos all around like you said (at 2-3"), a rear trackbar relocation bracket if you don't have one, some bumpstop jounce spacers to be on the safe side and if you really want to a steering stabilizer if it's that cheap just cause it may be too much hassle to remove the old one. My SS for instance broke apart when I tried to remove it, even though I was replacing it I was trying to keep it intact. Shouldn't need a T-case drop I wouldn't think if you've already got it lifted in the front and have no issues.

If you have enough left over you may want to consider a 1.25" BL since you're doing 32s, it'll just give you a little extra to clear.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

... While changing rear diff oil, I found a sheared off bolt that had chewed things up a bit, and all the ring bolts were loose. No noise or slipping, but a few of the teeth had some visible damage. @Squatch helped me find a matching set of Dana 30/Dana 35 4:10’s (currently have 3:07) and I am getting ready to do the swap. From all I’ve read it’s straight forward.

Are those 4.10's new or used? Used gears are significantly harder to set up and get to mesh properly than new gears are. Installing ring & pinion gears is definitely neither straight-forward or easy. Even expert highly experienced ring & pinion installers don't always get it right.

Edit: Unless you meant you're replacing your entire axles with axles that have 4.10 gearing. In that case yes that's a straight-forward swap.

 

[danof76]

Are those 4.10's new or used? Used gears are significantly harder to set up and get to mesh properly than new gears are. Installing ring & pinion gears is definitely neither straight-forward or easy. Even expert highly experienced ring & pinion installers don't always get it right.

I think he means he's swapping the whole axle front and rear that already have 4:10 gears. At least that's what I gathered from the thread title.

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

Thanks for the replies,

Jerry - Yes, complete axle swap.

Danof76 - I have a couple control arms that need replacing, so I figure I might as well do them all. One was bent pretty bad when I bought it, and a couple others have dry rotted bushings. I will go OE with CA's. As far as replacing the springs in the rear, do I go 10" to match the 2" in front? Rear trackbar relocation bracket, i currently do not have an adjustable rear Trk Bar, make a difference? 1.25" BL... guess I will have to Google that as i'm not sure what it is.
Thanks for the info.

Pagrey - What parts are standing out to you as not stock? It seems like there are no mods, but only being at this 5-6 months I very well could be missing something.

Anyone else see anything that stands out in the pictures?

Thanks again.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks for the replies,

Jerry - Yes, complete axle swap.

Danof76 - I have a couple control arms that need replacing, so I figure I might as well do them all. One was bent pretty bad when I bought it, and a couple others have dry rotted bushings. I will go OE with CA's. As far as replacing the springs in the rear, do I go 10" to match the 2" in front? Rear trackbar relocation bracket, i currently do not have an adjustable rear Trk Bar, make a difference? 1.25" BL... guess I will have to Google that as i'm not sure what it is.
Thanks for the info.

Pagrey - What parts are standing out to you as not stock? It seems like there are no mods, but only being at this 5-6 months I very well could be missing something.

Anyone else see anything that stands out in the pictures?

Thanks again.

You should get some new springs in the rear for sure. Are they Gray like the front? Do you carry a heavy load? If no heavy load, they are sagged out the extra two inches, and I'd assume you have a Rough Country 2" lift. If its just because you have a heavy load in the rear, you might be able to get away with a spacer, or pick up some 3" springs. Does the jeep look like its raked to the rear (front rides higher than the back)?


If it were me, I'd actually try to pick up a full set of 2" lift springs, the 0-2" lift shocks and the rest of your maintenance needs. A little more expensive, but worth it. Springs will probably run another 300 bucks. Regarding the T-case drop...not sure you'll need it with a 2" lift.

The other not stocks parts I see in your front end is the trackbar and the tie rod.

 

[danof76]

Danof76 - I have a couple control arms that need replacing, so I figure I might as well do them all. One was bent pretty bad when I bought it, and a couple others have dry rotted bushings. I will go OE with CA's. As far as replacing the springs in the rear, do I go 10" to match the 2" in front? Rear trackbar relocation bracket, i currently do not have an adjustable rear Trk Bar, make a difference? 1.25" BL... guess I will have to Google that as i'm not sure what it is.
Thanks for the info.

Bodylift (BL) lifts the body up off the frame, it gives you no extra ground clearance but has three notable benefits:

• Gives you more space for your tires to go up into the wheel well
• Is necessary for when/if you do a tummy tuck since it gives the drive-train more room to get sucked up into the body (hence the term "tummy tuck")
• Makes it look a little taller, which is always cool

They're fairly inexpensive too, you could do a MML (Motor Mount Lift) at the same time, but isn't necessary. JKS makes a BL that is well liked, there are others as well and I've heard something of a benefit to BLs made from metal as opposed to flexible material. Something more I need to look into personally. It's your call, I only recommend it since you want to go to 32" tires it just gives you more clearance which is always nice.

If you're lifting the rear-end you should get a rear track-bar relocation bracket. It's usually recommended, even if you have an adjustable one or especially if you don't.

For rear replacement springs go with one rated for 2" or 2.5" of lift, they also are fairly inexpensive. These Old Man Emu springs (sold as a pair) are the same ones I have, they are rated for a heavy load if you're thinking about adding weight to the back. I am pretty stock above the springs and it rides fine for me anyhow.

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

Bodylift (BL) lifts the body up off the frame, it gives you no extra ground clearance but has three notable benefits:

• Gives you more space for your tires to go up into the wheel well
• Is necessary for when/if you do a tummy tuck since it gives the drive-train more room to get sucked up into the body (hence the term "tummy tuck")
• Makes it look a little taller, which is always cool

They're fairly inexpensive too, you could do a MML (Motor Mount Lift) at the same time, but isn't necessary. JKS makes a BL that is well liked, there are others as well and I've heard something of a benefit to BLs made from metal as opposed to flexible material. Something more I need to look into personally. It's your call, I only recommend it since you want to go to 32" tires it just gives you more clearance which is always nice.

If you're lifting the rear-end you should get a rear track-bar relocation bracket. It's usually recommended, even if you have an adjustable one or especially if you don't.

For rear replacement springs go with one rated for 2" or 2.5" of lift, they also are fairly inexpensive. These Old Man Emu springs (sold as a pair) are the same ones I have, they are rated for a heavy load if you're thinking about adding weight to the back. I am pretty stock above the springs and it rides fine for me anyhow.

Thanks for the link, I think that is the route I will take. That and the track-bar relocation bracket. Think I will hold off on the BL, would be an easy add down the road. It currently has 32's on it, and I have never ran into any issues with clearance in any of the driving I do. Mostly just joy riding and hunting.

So the springs you linked me to, are they rated for 2" - 2.5"? I didn't see it on the spec write up.

Also, Old Man Emu has this relocation bracket available too. $20. Good enough? https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_1142.htm (Not sure how to add links yet)

Getting back to the actual swap-out of the axle, other than the adjustable track bar in front, I believe everything is stock. Should I expect anything to give me issues like @pagrey mentioned earlier that I may have to modify the axle housing to fit the replacement? (Non-stock track bar and tie rod ends) When re-installing, what do I hook up first; control arms, track bar, shocks.... I'm sure I will figure it out as I go, but its nice to know ahead of time if possible.
Thanks again for you help, @danof76

 

[danof76]

The springs I linked you to are the 2" medium to heavy duty ones, they have 2.5" light duty ones as well that would be these.

That bracket is good to go, also the same one I used, you will need to drill into the stock bracket to fit it on just FYI. Not sure if there's a design that doesn't require that.

Also I don't think your drag-link is stock from the look of it so the tie-rod probably isn't either, for what difference it makes.

When reinstalling... I don't know. I'd defer to someone who has done a whole swap, they may know the best way. If I were doing it I'd probably do bump stop spacers, lower CAs, springs, upper CAs, track bar, tie-rod/drag-link, sway bar then shocks then brakes. I might switch around when I put the springs in as those are really the most annoying part to get in and out in my opinion. Whatever makes getting the springs in would be my primary concern, rest isn't too big of a deal.

 

[Mike_H]

You can always pull your knuckles off the current Dana 30 and transfer them over to the new one too, if the Tie Rod end tapers have been drilled to fit the bigger steering linkages.

 

[Mike_H]

Also I don't think your drag-link is stock from the look of it so the tie-rod probably isn't either, for what difference it makes.

Since you posted that you like learning...I'm not sure if you mis-spoke or are confused, but the picture of his front end shows the tie rod, not the Drag link. The Drag link Goes from the Steering box to the Pass side knuckle and the Tie rod Ties into the drag link and goes to the driver's side knuckle. Not trying to offend...My wife tells me that I shouldn't correct people...

Just for Reference....

 

[danof76]

Since you posted that you like learning...I'm not sure if you mis-spoke or are confused, but the picture of his front end shows the tie rod, not the Drag link. The Drag link Goes from the Steering box to the Pass side knuckle and the Tie rod Ties into the drag link and goes to the driver's side knuckle. Not trying to offend...My wife tells me that I shouldn't correct people...

Just for Reference....


View attachment 75176

Haha, no I mis-spoke, I always mix up tie-rod and drag-link, maybe it'll stick this time finally! Thanks for the correction, if not for my sake than for @DaYooperTransplant 's sake.

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

Haha, no I mis-spoke, I always mix up tie-rod and drag-link, maybe it'll stick this time finally! Thanks for the correction, if not for my sake than for @DaYooperTransplant 's sake.

Ha! Gotta admit, I scrolled back up several times to see how you were seeing the drag link. I just figured you meant tie rod. Ps. Is there a way to know right off if I have an aftermarket tie rod?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danof76]

Ha! Gotta admit, I scrolled back up several times to see how you were seeing the drag link. I just figured you meant tie rod. Ps. Is there a way to know right off if I have an aftermarket tie rod?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can tell from the picture it's not OE. Which one it is I don't know, someone may be able to identify it from just that picture in your first post if not from a full, well-lit picture of it.

This is an OE replacement one from Crown for reference:

 

[Mike_H]

Ha! Gotta admit, I scrolled back up several times to see how you were seeing the drag link. I just figured you meant tie rod. Ps. Is there a way to know right off if I have an aftermarket tie rod?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You do...The factory one is a very small diameter and has a locking collars near the Tie Rod Ends. Here is my factory one.

See the difference to yours?

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

@Mike_H - Yup, pretty clear to me now. I just got home and checked out the new/used axle I plan on putting in and it has all the stock stuff on it. (attached picture) I found a number on the aftermarket tie rod and found out it is a Rugged Ridge. Poor ratings on Amazon too.
So question, do I just get rid of the aftermarket tie rod and drag link and use the stock ones from the replacement. Or use this Rugged Ridge set up that is on the TJ now? It appears the tie rod end tapers are the same size.
Or... bite the bullet and start saving for new linkage?

Other than wanting to do this during the rainy season here in WA, I am in no real hurry to do this, and I can save a few bucks for parts if need be. By the way, most of my family lives in the G.R area. Lowell, for the most part. Hope you're staying warm, the family says its been a bitch back there.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[Mike_H]

Honestly, the stock stuff is garbage. I'd run the rugged ridge stuff, or scrap it all and go with the ZJ upgrade...Moog chassis parts for a late 90s Grand Cherokee V8. Search ZJ upgrade and you'll get all the part numbers. Your rugged ridge looks like it will suffice for now though.

Small world, I know a few people from Lowell, used to work in Alto. It's been really cold here lately, plus we got about a foot and a half of snow this week. Too cold to clear it from the roads, so driving has been treacherous. Our high was 0 yesterday, 4 today.

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

Small world indeed. Brother in Law runs the LKQ Pick your Part in Grand Rapids. He used to work in Alto at Magma. He's actually the one who got me interested in buying a Jeep, when we were back visiting in July.
Take care.