I know I read a post a while back discussing ways to drill / cut holes in the tub sheet metal using I believe it was a spot weld cutter or something similar. It was used instead of a drill bit to get better holes for installing all the nutserts etc. Anyone know what I’m thinking of. Or do you know what tools and what sizes are needed. I am getting ready to start installing all the new Aluminum Genright armor and would like to make sure I do a better job on the install this go around then I did a decade ago on the current armor. Thanks
Proper hole cutting for mounting body armor nutserts
- Thread starter Rescue6
- Start date
They should still be the same 5/16" nutserts and fasteners that most smart folk use. For that use a 3/8" cutter on the Rotabroach to drill every hole and enlarge any of them you can't get a nut on the backside to 17/32 with a normal drill bit.
Here's the same kit as Wildman posted with exception that this version has a spring loaded pin versus a drill bit for pilot. You won't use either pilot when drilling through armor as the thickness of armor will keep the rotobroach in place.
On other work my preference is the spring loaded pin because I think it can hold dead center better that the drill bit pilot. They work great either way!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETZFJI/?tag=wranglerorg-20
for
Don't forget the lube!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKH8L8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
On other work my preference is the spring loaded pin because I think it can hold dead center better that the drill bit pilot. They work great either way!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETZFJI/?tag=wranglerorg-20
for
Don't forget the lube!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKH8L8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Yes, unless you like things to be easy, accurate, and nice.
I guess, I don't have that much armor on mine.
I transfer punched, center drilled, and then drilled my final hole all with twist drills.
But it wasn't very many holes either.
Well after just using a drill bit to drill out armor holes I found the annular cutters a LOT better.
The drill bit is spring loaded. It took me a while to realize this when I first started using it.
If you clamp the armor in place and drill through every hole with a 3/8" rotabroach cutter, they are perfect every single time. No punching, no offset, just perfect round holes that line up exactly with the holes in the armor. When you remove it to drill for nutserts, you line it up exactly with the drilled holes and that lets you know you have it exactly where you want it.
Once you start poking holes for other things like firewall pass through you will find they are worth having.
Is this just a cheapo version? More product for the money but we all know how that sometimes turns out.
With all the 1/4-20 nutserts I use (not for armor) the 3/8" cutters should be the ticket.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WCJ87PJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
With all the 1/4-20 nutserts I use (not for armor) the 3/8" cutters should be the ticket.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WCJ87PJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Are you saying to only use nutserts if you cannot get a nut on it from behind even if the instructions are calling for the nutserts? I’m fine doing it that way for sure. I’ve had plenty nutserts spin on me over the years on various projects.
I use nutserts in a scant few places where I can get a nut on the back purely for convenience like reaching way up in front of the rear tail light around the emissions mess. Other than that, if I can put a nut on it, it gets one.
I don't know who is telling you to do it that way but that seems very odd. As far as them spinning, we see it often due to them not being set properly and or the owner cross threading the fastener when it was very clear from peeking in the hole that it was not going to work and the hole needs to be enlarged or the nutsert removed and a new one installed because it set off center.
We never have the problem with the ones we set and install fasteners in. We peek in the hole and make sure the threads are clear before we even try.
I don't want to derail this thread, but my question is related.
Do you guys do anything to prevent rust around the rivenut holes?
My Jeep is just white with salt around here in the winter.
I slopped some Woolwax in the drilled holes before I seated the inserts. Woolwax is a lanolin based corrosion preventative.
I figured paint be knocked off by the time the insert or bolt for that matter was set.
Just wondering if anybody in the rust belt had any hot tips or tricks?
Do you guys do anything to prevent rust around the rivenut holes?
My Jeep is just white with salt around here in the winter.
I slopped some Woolwax in the drilled holes before I seated the inserts. Woolwax is a lanolin based corrosion preventative.
I figured paint be knocked off by the time the insert or bolt for that matter was set.
Just wondering if anybody in the rust belt had any hot tips or tricks?
Red Loctite is a very good sealant and has high enough viscosity in the 272 grade to work pretty well.
That's a good idea, and I always have the big 8 OZ or whatever size bottles they are around.
Actually, I'll skip the 272 on my bolts, but the outside of the rivenuts I'll try it.
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I use a paint pen for a lot of holes that I drill and follow up with Fluid Film during assembly after it dries.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...kP7G28NUuhoCXX4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=69
Interesting they offer it with a spring loaded drill bit as well, I'm often drilling an 1/8" pilot hole for the pilot pin to stick through. The pins seem to round off on the tip pretty easily and it won't hold on center very well. Was thinking about making some better pins out of a tool steel or something if I ever get around to it.
Still not really anything else that works as well for sheet metal though except for a hole punch if the hole location is accessible.
Still not really anything else that works as well for sheet metal though except for a hole punch if the hole location is accessible.