Pulls on acceleration and dives back other direction when let off on acceleration
- Thread starter Tony G
- Start date
OP
Whoops that's a problem. Replace it with the stock factory non-dropped. That will cause left/right darty steering as the front end travels up & down over bumps/dips in the road. If you're accelerating/decelerating hard enough to make the front-end go up & down that dropped Pitman arm will cause bump steer (the steering shifting left/right as the front end moves up/down).
OP
If you have a dropped track bar amount at the frame you need to either do away with that or install a drop pitman arm which is just a redundant change of stock angles
(Ideally)
Also you need to check your control arm bushings.. especially in the rear... Rear steer will make one handle terribly.
OP
OP
Sorry for the delay but work before play...Update on the results for all you that were kind to take the time to post replies. Well vehicle went into four wheel shop for four wheel alignment and complete check up on my first learning nail biting hair pulling knuckle busting ever jeep build. They set it up and said everything was exceptionally close in the setup however my front track bar was not in proper arc geometry with the drag link, reason being I used the rough country adjustable track bar with a Frame mounting drop bracket (NOT GOOD) that dropped my track bar to much to be in sync. So when I took my measurements I totally fubar them and had to have a I can't read a tape measure moment not once but twice 
&*% The shop had a home made setup showing the effects of an improper setup and how the tires/tire reacts. Based on everything they showed me a new track bar has been ordered with a jj on the frame end side. The recently installed drop down bracket on the frame will be removed and since I drilled it out for that bracket that is why I went with a JJ it will let me drill it out to 5/8 and bolt it to the bottom of the stock frame mount since that will put me pretty close to parallel (1/8") which is tolerable and if it was to be an issue which they said should not be but if so they can make the difference up on the axle side by welding a new bracket to the axle or plate the existing and redrill at the new height to make up the 1/8"
Okay all I deserve it just don't bash me to much lol I was told to check it by members PS I think I graduated my tape reading class so hopefully on my next build I can eliminate the nail biting hair pulling knuckle busting during the build. (nahhh would not be a build with out it).
On another note I install Ten factor front axle up grade and what they do not mention is when doing this upgrade it is important to make sure you adjust your steering stops to limit the severe axle bind when maxed on existing stop locations that were adjusted for stock conditions.
Again Thank you all for the time taken to assist me as well as many others.
&*% The shop had a home made setup showing the effects of an improper setup and how the tires/tire reacts. Based on everything they showed me a new track bar has been ordered with a jj on the frame end side. The recently installed drop down bracket on the frame will be removed and since I drilled it out for that bracket that is why I went with a JJ it will let me drill it out to 5/8 and bolt it to the bottom of the stock frame mount since that will put me pretty close to parallel (1/8") which is tolerable and if it was to be an issue which they said should not be but if so they can make the difference up on the axle side by welding a new bracket to the axle or plate the existing and redrill at the new height to make up the 1/8"Okay all I deserve it just don't bash me to much lol I was told to check it by members PS I think I graduated my tape reading class so hopefully on my next build I can eliminate the nail biting hair pulling knuckle busting during the build. (nahhh would not be a build with out it).
On another note I install Ten factor front axle up grade and what they do not mention is when doing this upgrade it is important to make sure you adjust your steering stops to limit the severe axle bind when maxed on existing stop locations that were adjusted for stock conditions.
Again Thank you all for the time taken to assist me as well as many others.
Hey folks! New forum member here...I bought a Jeep TJ that had many mods done, and my only complaint this far is that it pulls under acceleration. Before I start addressing/replacing anything, I was hoping to get feedback regarding what is on the right already. Can anyone tell me what I have here and if you believe anything is out of whack regarding the prior owner's selection of components?
That Fox stabilizer has been known to cause a push, you could try a quick drive with it out to see if the push remains.
After going through a pull/push scenario a couple months ago with mine, make sure the toe is set properly, and that the steering is perfectly centered. Mine had the steering wheel off center just a few degrees, and once centered the push/pull disappeared.
After going through a pull/push scenario a couple months ago with mine, make sure the toe is set properly, and that the steering is perfectly centered. Mine had the steering wheel off center just a few degrees, and once centered the push/pull disappeared.
It looks like you have some sort of dropped frame side track bar mount. Do you also have a dropped Pitman arm?
I can't tell because I'm not sure what the stock one should look like...I had CJs and FJ40s and Broncos, and a JK and LJ (stock LJ for the most part), but never a TJ. I could go check the LJ and see what that one looks like, but that could have been a drop pitman arm and I wouldn't know it either...my neighbor owns it now so at least it is close. I can hunt for web pics to find out.
I can't really tell from the pictures but it does look like you have a dropped track bar frame mount. If you do, you also need a dropped Pitman arm to keep the drag link and track bar parallel. Most people would say you are better off with neither but I can't say. The stock TJ is identical to the LJ.
OP
I was told by some well known and knowledgeable people on this forum that no two jeeps will ride the same and what may work on one jeep may not work for another. I sent my rig to a 4x4 shop to set up caster and four wheel alignment which is all I need them to do since I thought for sure that would have corrected my issue but it still had this pulling issue! So after trying a few things I managed to work it out which was like so. I chalked up all of my tire treads and drove it straight down the asphalt driveway to establish my correct tire pressure based on how the chalk wore off the tire tread. Next I marked my ca’s and took piñon angle readings then started playing around readjusting that angle to see what effects my jeep had by going in one direction or the other during my adjustment, I only end up just slightly from the original setting for what I felt was a comfortable handling for what I had in my mind. Next was the track bars so I made sure the front and rear axles were inline with each other (which the were) however the jeep still had the pull and push. At this time I had the RC track bars front and rear so after not being to happy with RC control arms I replace them with Rock Jock which made a difference but I was still not satisfied so then I set up the front TB once that was set it was on to the rear TB which I played around with it’s adjustment to get it where I felt the handling was comfortable and not pulling on acceleration. I found that all those things and a lot of time helped me get it to where it is predictable. The track bars adjustments between front and rear have to be set up so they work together since the axle is moving left to right under the vehicle depending upon when you accelerate stop or whoops in the roadway , I believe it was told to me that it is called a live axle. Not sure if this helps you out but hopefully you get it worked out
More info...I discovered I have Krawler 5 inch lift coils, Fox shocks, a Synergy heavy duty steering kit (adjustable track bar, Fox stabilizer, Y-setup), and the track bar frame side bracket is a double shear Barnes 4x4 piece (it is only 3.5 inches from frame to center of bolt hole). Pitman arm appears stock?
Anyhoo, wondering if with a 5 inch lift I need to get a dropped Pitman/Dropped TB frame bracket? Or is what I have appropriate? It drives straight at 70, and does not bump steer...the only gremlin is the skinny pedal pull/return on letting off. Additional pics...