Question about replacing driveshaft u-joint

Please elaborate on what you are trying to say.
When you install a u-joint, it has to find the correct location width wise based on the distance between the grooves for the snap or retaining rings. The ends of the trunnions ride against thrust washers in the caps to operate correctly. After the u-joint is installed in the yokes, the easiest method to ensure that the spacing is adhered to is to properly smack each yoke on both sides just below the hole with a decent size hammer. That uses inertia and the weight of the opposing yoke and u-joint body weight to set the cap back snugly against the snap or retaining rings which also then allows the joint to operate with the proper amount of preload on the thrust washers.

Driveshaft joints require less forceful smacking to behave than alloy axle shafts. Kinda like the difference between your girlfriend and your wife and knowing which one to smack and how hard.

If one will move the opposing yokes before and then after while paying attention to the amount of force to do so, a significant freeing up of the joint can be felt which tells you that it is now correctly installed. Inertia, learn it, use it to your advantage.
 
When you install a u-joint, it has to find the correct location width wise based on the distance between the grooves for the snap or retaining rings. The ends of the trunnions ride against thrust washers in the caps to operate correctly. After the u-joint is installed in the yokes, the easiest method to ensure that the spacing is adhered to is to properly smack each yoke on both sides just below the hole with a decent size hammer. That uses inertia and the weight of the opposing yoke and u-joint body weight to set the cap back snugly against the snap or retaining rings which also then allows the joint to operate with the proper amount of preload on the thrust washers.

Driveshaft joints require less forceful smacking to behave than alloy axle shafts. Kinda like the difference between your girlfriend and your wife and knowing which one to smack and how hard.

If one will move the opposing yokes before and then after while paying attention to the amount of force to do so, a significant freeing up of the joint can be felt which tells you that it is now correctly installed. Inertia, learn it, use it to your advantage.

OK we are on the same page (except the smacking women part) and you just explained the physics behind what the guy shows to do (hitting the yoke) in the video. The only thing he did different was he didn't smack the yoke right below the hole, but rather further down the yoke but smacking just below the hole actually makes more sense. I will be trying this later tonight.

Thanks for the info and explanation!
 
u-joint relief.jpg
 
Well I took the drive shaft out again and after a week of use it loosened up some so that it simply snug at this point and I suspect it is exactly as it should feel now.

Unfortunately that stupid chirping and whistling is still random and it has come back although not as loud. It had gone away before I replaced the joint, then started to reappear randomly before and after the joint replacement.

At this point I think I need to take it to my local gear shop and have them take a listen because I'm at a loss.