I was able to scratch off some paint on a sticker that was on the lower control arm says pro comp explorer
Questions about 6 inch suspension lift on my 98 TJ
- Thread starter runninwild
- Start date
Here are some other pictures of suspension I Haven't measured the front angles to see if it's an issue
That is the wonkiest frame side track bar drop bracket and support I've ever seen. Anyone recognize it?
I'd pull that whole mess off of there, and loose the dropped pitman arm. The dropped pitman arm and the track bar drop work together, and are intended to compensate for the 6" of lift (if that's what it actually is) while attempting to eliminate bump steer - but it's misguided and not needed. And then drop the suspension lift by about two or three inches to take here back down to 31" tire territory.
I'd pull that whole mess off of there, and loose the dropped pitman arm. The dropped pitman arm and the track bar drop work together, and are intended to compensate for the 6" of lift (if that's what it actually is) while attempting to eliminate bump steer - but it's misguided and not needed. And then drop the suspension lift by about two or three inches to take here back down to 31" tire territory.
There is all kinds of wrong on this lift. I would determine the spring length without the spacers, probably 3" which would work with the 33"s. Toss the spacers and the dropped pitman arm and the dropper track bar mount, install adjustable upper and lower control arms and match the drive shaft angle to the rear diff input shaft. Pull the T-case spacers and install 1" MML's if needed. That's just a starting point, and WTF are the two upper silver painted bars doing for you?
Look close - that's the support mechanism for the dropped track bar bracket. Wonky.
For your 6" lift id start by taking off the spacers you have on your springs. That will help out that pinion angle and not cost you anything. That will also put your sway bar links back into better alignment. For your springs you should have a .5"-.75" rubber spacer (Isolator) to keep from having metal to metal contact on the upper spring perch. Lower isn't needed.
Next thing is for certain get the 3rd bolt into your TC skid plate. That's potentially a huge safety issue as your TC skid supports your transmission and transfer case. Would have a serious issue if that gave way while driving. Ideally id be best to remove the skid plate spacers by using a MML with BL.
Next, i'd look at replacing your front trackbar and the upper mount it is using. The silver bars that go from your track bar bracket to your opposite frame can go for sure with the whole mount. (I have zero clue why it would be needed - as said above.. very wonky.) Then reinstall a factory pitman arm.
As far as the death wobble goes its likely caused by most of this as well as ball joints going bad. Might have to replace all of them to completely fix the issue.
I'd start with doing all that first then report back with any improvements. You'll likely need rear upper adjustable control arms at a minimum to completely fix the pinion angles.
Next thing is for certain get the 3rd bolt into your TC skid plate. That's potentially a huge safety issue as your TC skid supports your transmission and transfer case. Would have a serious issue if that gave way while driving. Ideally id be best to remove the skid plate spacers by using a MML with BL.
Next, i'd look at replacing your front trackbar and the upper mount it is using. The silver bars that go from your track bar bracket to your opposite frame can go for sure with the whole mount. (I have zero clue why it would be needed - as said above.. very wonky.) Then reinstall a factory pitman arm.
As far as the death wobble goes its likely caused by most of this as well as ball joints going bad. Might have to replace all of them to completely fix the issue.
I'd start with doing all that first then report back with any improvements. You'll likely need rear upper adjustable control arms at a minimum to completely fix the pinion angles.
Ok thanks guys I really appreciate The help because I know nothing about lifts so if I take out the silver bars then ditch the 3 in front coil spacer blocks get what you suggested for blocks and remove the t case spacers?
I guess I bought someone else's creation lol
I guess I bought someone else's creation lol
Thanks ! I'll try and get as much as I Can done this week we have hay to make... tis the season will the rear tom woods double carden drive shaft still line up with everything If I remove and replace everything your suggesting ?
That should be fine for now. You may need a different length depending the PO but based on the parts used it might be okay.
you can only remove the transfer case skid spacers if you get a mml and bl as well. Otherwise your driveline angles will likely be to extreme.
As far as how well everything lines up we won’t know exactly til
you can only remove the transfer case skid spacers if you get a mml and bl as well. Otherwise your driveline angles will likely be to extreme.
As far as how well everything lines up we won’t know exactly til
To be clear, if you remove the silver bars you also have to remove the drop bracket on the frame side track bar mount - they work together and one will not work without the other. Also, in conjunction with that you have to go with a stock pitman arm.
Thinking about it, you may also need a new track bar - can’t tell from the pictures, but it may be a crazy shape made to work with the rest of that mess. Not sure.
Well turns out after I replaced the front passenger Wheel hub, all the lower control arm bushings, new brakes the whole way around and had an alignment Done and all 4 tires balanced Theres zero death wobble replacing the leaking steering box this weekend that should take out the little bit of wonder out of it and I'm good thanks for the help... going to be swapping motor out in near future have a 350 sbc just needs rebuilt 
Amen. That sucker has some really old stuff under it. I have been through this same scenario.
