Rack-mounted lights: How to route wires inside the cab?

[LJDC]

I'm mounting a rack to the roof of my LJ's hard top without drilling (Surco crossbars & Yakima LocknLoad rack). I've run out of space for the gear required to camp (in a way that my wife finds tolerable), so the roof is the best option, and the total weight will be around 50-70 pounds
As long as I have it, I'm considering mounting some camp lights onto the underside rack. Nothing huge, just enough to light up the surrounding area, especially for when we need to make or break camp in the dark.

What are the best options to route wires into the cab without drilling through the hard top? I'm planning to connect the wires in a way that will let me plug the lights into the Jeep's electrical system or a spare battery behind the front passenger seat. The options I've thought of are these:

1. Through the top of the tailgate glass, where the weather stripping is near the hinge. This risks a leak in the rain, but it's a very short run.

2. Through the bottom of the tailgate glass, where the weather stripping from the glass and tailgate meet. This risks a leak in the rain, but it's a short run.

3. Down the body on the outside, up the inside of the body to where the taillight wires are, and then run all the way to the front of the Jeep, up into the engine compartment (and potentially back into the tub through the firewall). This is a long run and will require thicker wires, though it is certainly doable. The only downside, other than the length of the run, is the wires on the outside.

4. Down the body on the outside, up the inside of the body to where the taillight wires are, and then somehow inside the tub (I think there may be a pass-through there, or I guess I could make one).

5. In through a front door seal. This risks a leak in the rain, and it'll be annoying.

6. Down the exterior of the windshield, then in through the bottom of the windshield or through the cowl (like A-pillar lights).

I am dead-set against drilling the hard top. That just invites problems that I don't want. Wires will be further insulated inside a shrink-tube sleeve.

I'm leaning toward running them into the engine compartment (options 3 / 6). Am I not thinking of something obvious? I'm sure someone has done this before, and I'm hoping to benefit from your wisdom (or warning).

 

[Arthurius]

I would say your best bet is #6. You can easily get them tucked away and its a relatively short run.

Both #3 and #4 seem way too overly complicated.

#1 and #2 were first first though but those seem too compromising, same for #5.

 

[LJDC]

I would say your best bet is #6. You can easily get them tucked away and its a relatively short run.

Both #3 and #4 seem way too overly complicated.

#1 and #2 were first first though but those seem too compromising, same for #5.

What makes 6 a problem (down the windshield) is that without a light-bar bracket (which of course I don’t have), I don’t have anything to attach the wires to between the rack and the cowl. So I’ll just have a wire hanging down the windshield frame.

 

[macleanflood]

Good excuse for a snorkel...helps hide the wires.

-Mac

 

[Arthurius]

without a light-bar bracket (which of course I don’t have)

You may also be able to get away with "Windshield Frame Armor". Several companies make it, from form-fitting like UCF and Genright to the ridiculous angry grill over-molded style from folks like Hooke that limit visibility and make you look... cool?

Not sure if these are designed to allow wires to be run under them. They may be flush fitting. Worth a call/email to the MFG if you go this route.

 

[MikekiM]

Not exactly what you're looking for since I use a soft top only, tailgate mounted cargo basket (that I remove between camping trips) and my aux lights are attached to the bottom of the basket, as well as under the rear bumper

In any event, maybe something will resonate with you for your project. I ran the wires along the passenger side rocker above the jack handles and out the back under the lip of the soft top. I used a four pin quick disconnect that I tuck at the base of the roll bar when not in use and connect to the mate that is on the cargo basket when attached. Dedicated dash mount switch controls each of the aux light sets independently. I also have small LEDs mounted under the basket illuminating the tailgate table and the trunk area that is controlled with a pin switch.

Tailgate light..

Pin Switch...

 

[LJDC]

In any event, maybe something will resonate with you for your project. I ran the wires along the passenger side rocker above the jack handles and out the back under the lip of the soft top. I used a four pin quick disconnect that I tuck at the base of the roll bar when not in use and connect to the mate that is on the cargo basket when attached. Dedicated dash mount switch controls each of the aux light sets independently. I also have small LEDs mounted under the basket illuminating the tailgate table and the trunk area that is controlled with a pin switch.

That looks awesome. I think I’m leaning toward runing the wires under the rear glass, maybe up near the liftgate hinges, which I think I’ve seen done somewhere.

By the way, instead of tuning wires along the rockers, there’s a great spot where some factory wires run, well tucked up and out of the way, on the driver’s side. I have wires for rear bumper/reverse lights, a backup camera, and another electronic device that beeps, run that way. There is no shortage of space there, and you can then run the wires past the front wheel and directly into the engine compartment.

 

[C.J. Roberts]

I'd go with option 6. Running the wires down the windshield frame wouldn't be too bad. I presume that you don't want to drill it either to mount clamps, but you could use some of these adhesive backed clamps: