Re-Re-Rebuild

[Tronner]

So I am working on Re-doing my front end after the weekend trip to Persimmon Rd and Charlies creek. What I am attempting to do is get my bump stops set up correctly, Center the front Axle, and work on my Up-Travel Front+ Rear, Find more appropriate length shocks. What I am seeing now though is a problem I didn't think I would encounter. It seems to me that the front Uppers are fighting each other. When I drop the axle (Springs out, Sway bar off and shocks off,) the drivers side of the axle will go down, 2-3 inches lower than the passenger. How do I correct this? Could this occur due to a weight difference from the side that has the pumpkin vs the side that does not. My arms are adjustable, I had thought previously that I had everything set correctly, though now I am not too sure. At Ride height, I have both sides squared to the first T-case skid plate bolt (measurement is 41 and 3/8ths.) Should I re-square the axle to the first body mount bolt? Am I worried about nothing and everything is fine? Pics below.

Drivers side:

Passenger side:

Pic facing the diff:

 

[Tronner]

Measuring to the first body mount bolt yields the following:

27 and 1/4 on the driver side

27 and 3/8ths on the passenger side

So off by 1/8th.

 

[John Cooper]

So I am working on Re-doing my front end after the weekend trip to Persimmon Rd and Charlies creek. What I am attempting to do is get my bump stops set up correctly, Center the front Axle, and work on my Up-Travel Front+ Rear, Find more appropriate length shocks. What I am seeing now though is a problem I didn't think I would encounter. It seems to me that the front Uppers are fighting each other. When I drop the axle (Springs out, Sway bar off and shocks off,) the drivers side of the axle will go down, 2-3 inches lower than the passenger. How do I correct this? Could this occur due to a weight difference from the side that has the pumpkin vs the side that does not. My arms are adjustable, I had thought previously that I had everything set correctly, though now I am not too sure. At Ride height, I have both sides squared to the first T-case skid plate bolt (measurement is 41 and 3/8ths.) Should I re-square the axle to the first body mount bolt? Am I worried about nothing and everything is fine? Pics below.

Drivers side:
View attachment 633814

Passenger side:
View attachment 633815

Pic facing the diff:

View attachment 633816

Did you go in the Racetrack rock garden after we left?????

Asking for @tr21triton

 

[John Cooper]

I mean @Hog really had his LJR flexed out

 

[hear]

nobody's gonna mention that brake line?

 

[Tronner]

I mean @Hog really had his LJR flexed out
View attachment 633824

Went to the mall after that, speed bumps took my teeth out

 

[Tronner]

nobody's gonna mention that brake line?

Good call out, I need to do the YJ brake line swap soon

 

[Hog]

I mean @Hog really had his LJR flexed out
View attachment 633824

I’d say… he’s more flexed then my jeep

 

[John Cooper]

I’d say… he’s more flexed then my jeepView attachment 633849

That's the cha-CA-go gangsta lean, or he's practicing his super model stance

 

[Sean B]

So I am working on Re-doing my front end after the weekend trip to Persimmon Rd and Charlies creek. What I am attempting to do is get my bump stops set up correctly, Center the front Axle, and work on my Up-Travel Front+ Rear, Find more appropriate length shocks. What I am seeing now though is a problem I didn't think I would encounter. It seems to me that the front Uppers are fighting each other. When I drop the axle (Springs out, Sway bar off and shocks off,) the drivers side of the axle will go down, 2-3 inches lower than the passenger. How do I correct this? Could this occur due to a weight difference from the side that has the pumpkin vs the side that does not. My arms are adjustable, I had thought previously that I had everything set correctly, though now I am not too sure. At Ride height, I have both sides squared to the first T-case skid plate bolt (measurement is 41 and 3/8ths.) Should I re-square the axle to the first body mount bolt? Am I worried about nothing and everything is fine? Pics below.

Drivers side:
View attachment 633814

Passenger side:
View attachment 633815

Pic facing the diff:

View attachment 633816

Mine does the same thing, I believe that as the track bar moves through it’s arc, at full droop on both sides it holds the passenger side up a bit in addition to pulling the axel to the left of center from where it is at ride hight. If it’s perfectly square at ride hight it will move a bit from there depending on how it articulates since everything moves in an arc, it can move axel front to back and/or side to side as it moves through the travel.

 

[Tronner]

Mine does the same thing, I believe that as the track bar moves through it’s arc, at full droop on both sides it holds the passenger side up a bit in addition to pulling the axel to the left of center from where it is at ride hight. If it’s perfectly square at ride hight it will move a bit from there depending on how it articulates since everything moves in an arc, it can move axel front to back and/or side to side as it moves through the travel.

Thank you, I was hoping it was normal. I have seen too many of the You tube 4 link setups where their axles just droop evenly. I re-set the squareness to 27 and 1/4 on each side for the lowers, I will get the Uppers dialed in later. Shocks measured 24inchs extended and 16inch compressed(hopefully I measured those correctly.)

 

[Sean B]

Thank you, I was hoping it was normal. I have seen too many of the You tube 4 link setups where their axles just droop evenly. I re-set the squareness to 27 and 1/4 on each side for the lowers, I will get the Uppers dialed in later. Shocks measured 24inchs extended and 16inch compressed(hopefully I measured those correctly.)

I’m no expert but had the same experience, if you disconnect track bar it would likely droop evenly, think it’s deceptive because when on the trail would both sides be at full droop.

I focused on getting bump stops right at full compression and then getting everything square and centered at ride hight. Could try measuring two places for front to back to make sure a bolt is not off.

 

[Tronner]

I’m no expert but had the same experience, if you disconnect track bar it would likely droop evenly, think it’s deceptive because when on the trail would both sides be at full droop.

I focused on getting bump stops right at full compression and then getting everything square and centered at ride hight. Could try measuring two places for front to back to make sure a bolt is not off.

Same here, I know that my rear is slightly off on the passenger side. I am mainly focused on regaining some up travel. I will re-cycle the front tonight and make sure the bumps are correct, I think they should be at this point based on what I saw when i cycled it earlier. May need to throw a Hockey puck in there to prevent the front TB from contacting the Diff cover.