Rear axle 1-1/2 inches to the right. How to center?

myjeep3

TJ Enthusiast
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MA
I am rebuilding the suspension with a 3" lift. The front axle is not installed, just the rear, however the rear axle is shifted more to the right side. Is there a way to correct this, or will it correct itself once I install the front?

Also all my control arm bolt are installed but not torqued, just loose. Should I tighten them up now with the rear tires on the floor? I feel like there no enough height to push it down all the way.

Please advise.

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Adjustable track bar. I'd recommend Currie. You probably will also need a track bar relocation bracket

I'd leave stock control arms snug but not tight until the Jeep is completely reassembled and at it's operating weight.

Savvy or other Johnny Joint control arms can be torqued in any position.

-Mac
 
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With no weight on it, it's sitting way high, so the swing of the track bar is pulling the axle to the right. Put the other 3000 pounds back on it and it will sit lower and the axle will shift toward the center. Maybe it will be good enough, or maybe you will still need an adjustable track bar.
 
Adjustable track bar. I'd recommend Currie. You probably will also need a track bar relocation bracket

I'd leave stock control arms snug but not tight until the Jeep is completely reassembled and at it's operating weight.

Savvy or other Johnny Joint control arms can be torqued in any position.

-Mac

there is a track bar relocation in place. I have the same setup on my TJ and all is centered. :unsure:

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I got the Novak motor mount on with just a few welds, motor seem center, though the power steering line touches the frame, no room.

I have also mounted the Tcase (NP241C) and the shaft doesn't line up with the rear axle, it's way off, I would say about 2".

The tub is still not on, not sure if the rear axle will center up once the full weight is on, or should I get a rear adjust track bar?

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With any lift, you are always better off with an adjustable track bar. That said, you must adjust the track bar - i.e. center the axle - with the rig at ride height. To get to proper ride height, you must have all the weight on the rig - in your case meaning the body and everything else which will normally be there.

Take the time to educate yourself while you have the body off, and learn how the suspension moves as it cycles. Get under there and take a close look at the track bar, and how it positions the axle side to side as the suspension moves up and down through its entire range of motion.

Spend a few minutes understanding this, and you can easily answer your own question. It’s a good lesson in how suspensions move, and a very good thing to know as you go though your build.

Jeff
 
With any lift, you are always better off with an adjustable track bar. That said, you must adjust the track bar - i.e. center the axle - with the rig at ride height. To get to proper ride height, you must have all the weight on the rig - in your case meaning the body and everything else which will normally be there.

Take the time to educate yourself while you have the body off, and learn how the suspension moves as it cycles. Get under there and take a close look at the track bar, and how it positions the axle side to side as the suspension moves up and down through its entire range of motion.

Spend a few minutes understanding this, and you can easily answer your own question. It’s a good lesson in how suspensions move, and a very good thing to know as you go though your build.

Jeff

Can't center axle with the tub off?? 🤔
 
Can't center axle with the tub off?? 🤔

Well you could center it with the tub off, if you had an adjustable trackbar. Once you put the tub and weight on, it would no longer be center.

For the rear, as the suspension compresses, the trackbar will force the axle to the driver side. The reason you need to have the tub and any other weight before you start dialing in your suspension.
 
Sure you can.

Now reread my post, follow the advice, and you will know why that’s a bad idea.

Invest some time and you will understand SuperJay’s explanation.

Well you could center it with the tub off, if you had an adjustable trackbar. Once you put the tub and weight on, it would no longer be center.

For the rear, as the suspension compresses, the trackbar will force the axle to the driver side. The reason you need to have the tub and any other weight before you start dialing in your suspension.

@NashvilleTJ I certainly do understand. I want to center it now just to check my setup on the ls swap am doing. I get it that suspension will shift with the full weight on the frame, hence why I left the arms bolts loos until the body goes on.
If I center it now and it moves when tub goes on, its not like I can't readjust it.
 
@NashvilleTJ I certainly do understand. I want to center it now just to check my setup on the ls swap am doing. I get it that suspension will shift with the full weight on the frame, hence why I left the arms bolts loos until the body goes on.
If I center it now and it moves when tub goes on, its not like I can't readjust it.

If you really need it centered now just unbolt the track bar.

By the looks of it you might need to clock your tcase so the front output is higher.and it's possible you'll need an sye on that case
 
If you really need it centered now just unbolt the track bar.

By the looks of it you might need to clock your tcase so the front output is higher.and it's possible you'll need an sye on that case
Why do you think that it will need to be clocked, and will need a sye kit?
 
Why do you think that it will need to be clocked, and will need a sye kit?

Because it hangs down further than a tj tcase. It will make for the front driveshaft hitting the skid and the whole thing needing to be mounted higher up which makes for worse driveshaft angles. Hopefully you can just redrill the transmission tailhousing to clock it up

You may need an sye because of the amount of lift.
 
Because it hangs down further than a tj tcase. It will make for the front driveshaft hitting the skid and the whole thing needing to be mounted higher up which makes for worse driveshaft angles. Hopefully you can just redrill the transmission tailhousing to clock it up

You may need an sye because of the amount of lift.

why not just lowering the skid? That skid wont even be used as it will not work with the setup, a new support will have to be sourced or fab.
Its only a 3" lift, and with the longer wheelbase of the LJ, I dont think it will be an issue, but will see.
 
why not just lowering the skid? That skid wont even be used as it will not work with the setup, a new support will have to be sourced or fab.
Its only a 3" lift, and with the longer wheelbase of the LJ, I dont think it will be an issue, but will see.

If you lower the skid you defeat the purpose of a lift kit....
 
If you lower the skid you defeat the purpose of a lift kit....

Doesnt need to be lowered that much, and that skid will not work, and ends up collecting salt and rotting out the metal.
I also do not go offroad if clearance if what you implied by the purpose of a lift kit...