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Rear Body Mounts

someguysjeep

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if you cut the head off could you punch the shank up through? the torque has some depth inside and should allow the bolt to go up if the nuts are free.
 
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Vtx531

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I got lucky, mine were so far gone that everything just fell out once i cut it open.
View attachment 360085

Apparently on my driver side - it all fell out on its own somewhere along the way while I was driving. Passenger side is just spinning.

I'm going to use a hole saw to do a nice cutout and go from there on the passenger side. Driver side needs totally rebuilt so I picked up a sheetmetal brake and plan to rebuild the ends out of 16 or 18 gauge with all the factory 90 degree bends that give the box it's strength.

Some pics of what is going on inside there and my guide to rebuilding those sections. If anyone has any other actual pics that show details I would love to see them.

218AF935-4887-483E-93F6-8AAB2BCEBE0C.jpeg


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0BD977DD-AB68-4B46-ACA0-09B810914103.png
 
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someguysjeep

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You realize we are talking about the rear body mounts on the tub not the frame right?

that is the tub portion ...or somebody's version of it. isn't it?

they locked in square nuts to tabs that are just as cheesy and prone to rot or bend. but that looks like the whole rear sill to me and it shows the cover in that last drawing. that should make a whole new TB.
 
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GTTJ

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Mar 21, 2022
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Florida
When I installed my 1.25BL, I ended up drilling out enough of the spot welds so that I could peel up the back portion enough to get to it. I then broke away the piece that covers the nut and put a wrench on it. I just put a regular nut back in, tightened it down and spot welded the outer piece back. I won't be able to easily get it back apart but I've got no plans to do that.
 
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P man

Keister Bunny
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that is the tub portion ...or somebody's version of it. isn't it?

they locked in square nuts to tabs that are just as cheesy and prone to rot or bend. but that looks like the whole rear sill to me and it shows the cover in that last drawing. that should make a whole new TB.

This sure looks like a frame to me?? I'm not sure what you are seeing?? I think he confused the transmission skid plate nutserts with the rear body mount bolts?
 
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kincaid.0678

kincaid.0678

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if you cut the head off could you punch the shank up through? the torque has some depth inside and should allow the bolt to go up if the nuts are free.

I believe it would be possible if I can get some new sawzall blades to get the heads off those bolts. I have so many different projects and between life and work I haven’t even had a day to work on it. I will let everyone know how it turns out when I get the chance to work on it again.
 

eastbloc

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Oct 9, 2018
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Apparently on my driver side - it all fell out on its own somewhere along the way while I was driving. Passenger side is just spinning.

I'm going to use a hole saw to do a nice cutout and go from there on the passenger side. Driver side needs totally rebuilt so I picked up a sheetmetal brake and plan to rebuild the ends out of 16 or 18 gauge with all the factory 90 degree bends that give the box it's strength.

Some pics of what is going on inside there and my guide to rebuilding those sections. If anyone has any other actual pics that show details I would love to see them.

View attachment 360147

View attachment 360148

View attachment 360149


Few more panels and you will have a brand new body glued together.
Im guessing open end on those sections goes towards rear, so when its put together, it will be closed off just as factory?
I still have not sealed off my openings, what im thinking to do is use a hole saw to make perfect round holes and use a rubber plug/cap to cover them, just like floor drain holes. This way they are always accessible for what ever reason.
I am not a fan of closed off sections like this, without easy means to ventilate and self clean, its just a matter of time and few offroad trips before rust starts cultivating in there again.
 

eastbloc

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@kincaid.0678 have you checked mounts by cross member?
It is another stupid closed off section where all crap accumulates, and my bolts have rusted in there beyond saving.
I was spraying and torching driver side bolt for entire day till a nut gave way and started sniping inside the clamp. Now i have to drill a hole in the trunk from inside to get it out 🤬
 

Vtx531

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Nov 17, 2020
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Kalamazoo, MI
Few more panels and you will have a brand new body glued together.
Im guessing open end on those sections goes towards rear, so when its put together, it will be closed off just as factory?
I still have not sealed off my openings, what im thinking to do is use a hole saw to make perfect round holes and use a rubber plug/cap to cover them, just like floor drain holes. This way they are always accessible for what ever reason.
I am not a fan of closed off sections like this, without easy means to ventilate and self clean, its just a matter of time and few offroad trips before rust starts cultivating in there again.

Haha ya to the first point.

All the images I posted are from the same perspective - as if you were a bug sitting on top of the rear tire looking rearward.

My same thought with the hole saw cut as opposed to a cutoff wheel rectangular cutout. Could even use some self tapping screws with a square patch if you wanted to add some extra strength back in. Or weld the hole that is cut out back into the panel. I think the rubber plug idea is great though.
 
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kincaid.0678

kincaid.0678

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@kincaid.0678 have you checked mounts by cross member?
It is another stupid closed off section where all crap accumulates, and my bolts have rusted in there beyond saving.
I was spraying and torching driver side bolt for entire day till a nut gave way and started sniping inside the clamp. Now i have to drill a hole in the trunk from inside to get it out 🤬

My crossmember bolts came out perfectly. I was surprised because they were some of the ones that I couldn’t get out with my old Milwaukee impact. I tried them both with my new Milwaukee high torque impact and they came right out no problem. I guess I got lucky there although my front one under the radiator broke off and I’ll have to retrieve the bolt at a later date lol probably when I get the two rear ones out and I go back and do the body lift on which was delivered today. 1-1/4” JKS.
 
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kincaid.0678

kincaid.0678

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A little blind welding + luck = rear body mount removal success. Well at least I have the driver side out so I’m pretty sure I can do the passenger side the same way. It might not be pretty but it worked

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DDC3E773-23EE-4E33-A2A5-7AA71934C108.jpeg
 
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kincaid.0678

kincaid.0678

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Martinsburg, WV
The bolts for the two furthest rear body mount bushings were stuck due to rust. There is a plate inside a little slot inside that hole and when I tried to take them out the metal just crumbled. The plate was then spinning inside the body with the bolt seized up inside the plate so I had to cut an access hole to try to find a way to get said bolts out to change the bushings and in the very near future install a body lift. I ended up welding the nut plate to the inside of the hole and used my impact gun to get the bolts out finally. Now I’m able to replace the bushings above the gas tank area and then move onto the passenger side channels that need cut out and new welded in. Pictures are of the driver side that I replaced a couple weeks back

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