Rear Brakes Dragging

[PupPop78]

Hello,

I have a 2006 LJ with roughly 155k on the clock. The other day I was out in the Jeep on a roughly 80 mile round trip drive and was getting occasional whiffs of brake smell. When I got back into my neighborhood the rear brakes started to drag and smoke, I limped the jeep home the last 2 miles and parked it till I could investigate. The following day I jacked the rear up and pulled wheels, I found that the calipers on both sides where dragging slightly. Initially I was thinking it was thinking that I was going to need to replace a caliper or hose but since its both sides I wasn't sure if maybe it could be the proportioning valve or master cylinder?

Here is some additional info:

-dana 44 rear disc brakes
-Both calipers and hoses appear to be original
-Front calipers have been replaced by previous owner
-Jeep has a small lift and 33" BFG AT tires on stock 15" wheels

 

[Goatman]

Could be junky fluid too. I had 3 calipers lock up within 25-ish miles after I bought it. Had to completely flush everything. Ended up replacing all 4 corners to be sure nothing else was gunky. Never heard of fluid locking all the calipers ( 4th was dragging like hell).

 

[Rubicon88]

Hello,

I have a 2006 LJ with roughly 155k on the clock. The other day I was out in the Jeep on a roughly 80 mile round trip drive and was getting occasional whiffs of brake smell. When I got back into my neighborhood the rear brakes started to drag and smoke, I limped the jeep home the last 2 miles and parked it till I could investigate. The following day I jacked the rear up and pulled wheels, I found that the calipers on both sides where dragging slightly. Initially I was thinking it was thinking that I was going to need to replace a caliper or hose but since its both sides I wasn't sure if maybe it could be the proportioning valve or master cylinder?

Here is some additional info:

-dana 44 rear disc brakes
-Both calipers and hoses appear to be original
-Front calipers have been replaced by previous owner
-Jeep has a small lift and 33" BFG AT tires on stock 15" wheels

Ok...is this Jeep new to you?

If so was this the first trip of it's kind you've taken with it?(drive duration and mileage)

 

[Kid Mechanic]

Start simple. Pull the calipers. Cycle the pistons to find out if they move freely. How much pad is left? Simple things first. Then report back.

 

[PupPop78]

Ok...is this Jeep new to you?

If so was this the first trip of it's kind you've taken with it?(drive duration and mileage)

No I drove it 500 miles straight trough when I brought it home and most of that was at 70-80+mph with no issues. I have also been daily driving it since December.

Start simple. Pull the calipers. Cycle the pistons to find out if they move freely. How much pad is left? Simple things first. Then report back.

When you say cycle the piston what is the best way to do that? I will work on it tomorrow and report back what I find.

 

[Rubicon88]

Ok...so my point is this...

There's a million mechanics that own vehicles and most will tell you they're amazing. Just ask them. .
Its probably just a simple pads aren't free flowing because ya know...
"Someone did a brake job" lol...

I say this at least 10 times a week we get bad brakes in the shop and we didn't do them.

Most done by the owner and done wrong.

 

[PupPop78]

Ok...so my point is this...

There's a million mechanics that own vehicles and most will tell you they're amazing. Just ask them. .
Its probably just a simple pads aren't free flowing because ya know...
"Someone did a brake job" lol...

I say this at least 10 times a week we get bad brakes in the shop and we didn't do them.

Most done by the owner and done wrong.

I don't think this applies here, the brakes nave not had any work done on them recently and the issue just started. Also PO didn't do any work on work himself.

 

[Kid Mechanic]

When you say cycle the piston what is the best way to do that? I will work on it tomorrow and report back what I find.

Remove the calipers and press the pistons that actuate the pads back into the bore. Carefully and slowly press the brake pedal lightly, not much, and they will move back out. They should move freely, then press them back in for installation. If the are hard to press in, that could be the dragging issue of them not moving freely. If they are original and rusty in the bores they can be cleaned, but it’s cheap to just replace them. Excessive pad wear could also be an issue allowing the pistons to move too far and not retract properly.

 

[Goatman]

How do the pads and rotors look? Could it be the E-brake dragging? As said above, do a good thorough check of all the parts. Be sure to compress the pistons slowly. And 1 at a time to keep master from overfilling from the fluid being pushed back.

 

[PupPop78]

How do the pads and rotors look? Could it be the E-brake dragging? As said above, do a good thorough check of all the parts. Be sure to compress the pistons slowly. And 1 at a time to keep master from overfilling from the fluid being pushed back.

I checked the ebarke but its definitely the the calipers.

I was able to get one caliper to free up but the drivers side is still hanging up. Brake fluid was also pretty bad so I will flush it out and replace with new/clean fluid and go from there.

 

[Kid Mechanic]

I was able to get one caliper to free up but the drivers side is still hanging up. Brake fluid was also pretty bad so I will flush it out and replace with new/clean fluid and go from there.

Good idea for the fluid flush. Then just replace the rear calipers and pads, cheap insurance for better braking. If you will be running bigger tires, maybe a big brake kit for the front, they work really well.

 

[Rubicon88]

Im just saying we get brake work in from owners to other garages and it's truly amazing how many aren't free flowing whatsoever.
Hence you get a pad wearing at an angle...one side lower than the other...etc.

it might not be the case in your situation but don't automatically give credit out like your brakes aren't sticking due to poor installation

I don't think this applies here, the brakes nave not had any work done on them recently and the issue just started. Also PO didn't do any work on work himself.

 

[PupPop78]

Im just saying we get brake work in from owners to other garages and it's truly amazing how many aren't free flowing whatsoever.
Hence you get a pad wearing at an angle...one side lower than the other...etc.

it might not be the case in your situation but don't automatically give credit out like your brakes aren't sticking due to poor installation

Ah gotcha. By free flowing are you taking about the piston sticking or were the pads ride?

 

[PupPop78]

So I cycled the pistons a few times on each side to see if they were hanging up but couldn't see any obvious issues. I also bleed the rear brakes to try and flush them out if there are any restrictions in the lines and then put a new set of pads on. I took it out for a short test drive and it seems to be ok but I'll take it longer a longer ride tomorrow and see. Thanks for all insight and advice left so far.

P.S. anybody have any experience with the Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleed kit? I got one to try out but it wouldn't pull enough of a vacuum for any fluid to come out.

 

[Rubicon88]

Ah gotcha. By free flowing are you taking about the piston sticking or were the pads ride?

Pads ride...see so many pads are cheap these days and often times have insane amounts of powered coating on them. People just pound them on and voila..."I just did a brake job"

The pads hang up like crazy and don't perform remotely close to proper

 

[PupPop78]

Pads ride...see so many pads are cheap these days and often times have insane amounts of powered coating on them. People just pound them on and voila..."I just did a brake job"

The pads hang up like crazy and don't perform remotely close to pr

Tips on improving pad travel?

 

[Kid Mechanic]

P.S. anybody have any experience with the Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleed kit? I got one to try out but it wouldn't pull enough of a vacuum for any fluid to come out.

Do it the old fashioned way with a piece of tubing and a jar with some fluid in it. One person job.
Take that Horror Fright stuff back.

 

[Kid Mechanic]

Tips on improving pad travel?

Like @Rubicon88 said, clean up the slag on the pads and lube the appropriate places.

 

[Rubicon88]

Tips on improving pad travel?

Wire wheel where the pads ride (any vehicle) get that as clean as possible like factory fresh of possible.

Clean the hardware if new isn't present with the new pads. (Clean under where the hardware will rest is key too. )
The sliders/slide pins etc...
Make sure they're factory fresh Clean.
You don't need special brake grease. Any tub of full synthetic wheel bearing grease will work.

When ready to mount the slide pins should easily pull in and out and the pads should easily move within the riding bracket with light finger pressure only.


Lastly...there is something to be said for more expensive pads and it goes beyond duration. More expensive pads fit better. Cheap pads even with perfect prep sometimes need ground down to have free movement because there is entirely too much powder coating/ paint and or the pad steel backing isn't machined to very good specs.
Either way to work right a lot of dicking around happens to make them work right. They almost always exclude new hardware as well.
Just an fyl

 

[PupPop78]

Wire wheel where the pads ride (any vehicle) get that as clean as possible like factory fresh of possible.

Clean the hardware if new isn't present with the new pads. (Clean under where the hardware will rest is key too. )
The sliders/slide pins etc...
Make sure they're factory fresh Clean.
You don't need special brake grease. Any tub of full synthetic wheel bearing grease will work.

When ready to mount the slide pins should easily pull in and out and the pads should easily move within the riding bracket with light finger pressure only.


Lastly...there is something to be said for more expensive pads and it goes beyond duration. More expensive pads fit better. Cheap pads even with perfect prep sometimes need ground down to have free movement because there is entirely too much powder coating/ paint and or the pad steel backing isn't machined to very good specs.
Either way to work right a lot of dicking around happens to make them work right. They almost always exclude new hardware as well.
Just an fyl

Thanks for the tips, I got the best pads that they had in stock and did everything that you described above. So far everything seems to be working properly.