Rear Disc Brakes And Double Flared Stainless Lines

[someguysjeep]

My lines were all stainless and I replaced what spanned the axle with soft metal that can be replaced in less time than it takes to bleed um, with cheap supplies and a small handheld tool.
Protection is key if your playing in rocks and I see no need to fight stainless as evening approaches 3 miles deep if 1 got bashed.

 

[mrblaine]

I broke the ears off one wing nut, switched it to a regular 5/16 nut, then broke the hinge pin! It's still good to clamp in the vice and use to file the tubing square...

A socket head cap screw has very high strength and works great for the pin. I use a tubing cutter, I've never filed the tubing square once.

 

[WSS]

My lines were all stainless and I replaced what spanned the axle with soft metal that can be replaced in less time than it takes to bleed um, with cheap supplies and a small handheld tool.
Protection is key if your playing in rocks and I see no need to fight stainless as evening approaches 3 miles deep if 1 got bashed.

Great idea. Keep in mind, in a pinch a single flare will get you off the trail.

 

[someguysjeep]

pop bottle and a rag, i can be back in action in under 30m. i don't have to get off the trail, just outta the way for 30m.

 

[WSS]

pop bottle and a rag, i can be back in action in under 30m. i don't have to get off the trail, just outta the way for 30m.

Share the method. Glass bottle?!

 

[someguysjeep]

nope just a plastic pop bottle or 2, to catch any spills from an open connection.
and sometimes i let it hang on an cracked bleeder with a piece of cheap hose so gravity can lend a hand with bleeding.

 

[sab]

The rear axle lines have so many tight bends right near the fittings, I was afraid that something like the K-tool wouldn't work... The clamp looks like it needs about an inch and a half of straight section, plus the fitting.

I'll probably buy one tho, just to have on hand. I'm sure I'll need to replace the lines on my motor home someday, and no one is going to have a pre-bent kit for that!

Don't buy one until mine gets here and I test it.

@Mike_H / @mrblaine - Did either of you get the K Tool flaring tool and have good luck with it on stainless?

 

[Mike_H]

@Mike_H / @mrblaine - Did either of you get the K Tool flaring tool and have good luck with it on stainless?

I did not.

 

[mrblaine]

@Mike_H / @mrblaine - Did either of you get the K Tool flaring tool and have good luck with it on stainless?

Per the first mention, it says it is the same as the Eastwood stuff, if that is true, it is just okay. I can try another one here in a bit and see if I can figure out what it is doing that it shouldn't be. Or find a way to tweak it to do SS better. I think the biggest issue is our so called annealed tube isn't.

 

[sab]

Per the first mention, it says it is the same as the Eastwood stuff, if that is true, it is just okay. I can try another one here in a bit and see if I can figure out what it is doing that it shouldn't be. Or find a way to tweak it to do SS better.

Thanks, Mr. Blaine - I appreciate any input. I'm adding cutting brakes to my build list, so I'll have a lot of brake line work to do. I'd prefer stainless line, but I can't find any flaring tool/technique for double-flares with stainless that is noted to be 100% effective. My build list is long, so I have some time to figure it out, fortunately.

Per the first mention, it says it is the same as the Eastwood stuff, if that is true, it is just okay. I can try another one here in a bit and see if I can figure out what it is doing that it shouldn't be. Or find a way to tweak it to do SS better. I think the biggest issue is our so called annealed tube isn't.

Maybe it's work hardening. Is the first flare easier than the second? 304 is quite susceptible to work hardening, so maybe the double flare process is the problem. Along with this, if you're using a tubing cutter, that may work harden it, too. Perhaps cutting with a death wheel would help? Or annealing between flares with a torch? Just spit-balling here - there's got to be a better way.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks, Mr. Blaine - I appreciate any input. I'm adding cutting brakes to my build list, so I'll have a lot of brake line work to do. I'd prefer stainless line, but I can't find any flaring tool/technique for double-flares with stainless that is noted to be 100% effective. My build list is long, so I have some time to figure it out, fortunately.


Maybe it's work hardening. Is the first flare easier than the second? 304 is quite susceptible to work hardening, so maybe the double flare process is the problem. Along with this, if you're using a tubing cutter, that may work harden it, too. Perhaps cutting with a death wheel would help? Or annealing between flares with a torch? Just spit-balling here - there's got to be a better way.

I always cut stainless with an abrasive wheel and don't get it hot. I've tried the annealing and I either suck at it or this stuff doesn't care. Neither flare cares, they are both difficult. I'll work on it though.