Rear main seal leak?
- Thread starter Joeinnewjersey
- Start date
Possibly but not necessary, valve cover will leak just as much.
Start checking from the top, then clean up bottom and do a check there.
Start checking from the top, then clean up bottom and do a check there.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I also thought I had a RMS leak back in 2017. After removing the oil pan, it was clear that it was coming from a failure of the oil pan gasket. Replaced it with a Fel-Pro gasket and all has been good since. I went into the job expecting to replace the RMS. Some say to change the RMS while you’re in there. I wont argue with that but I didn’t. I didn’t see any need to since there was no sign of leaks from the RMS.
Those "some" have not experienced pleasure of failed rms change 4 times in the row.
Id say let it be while it is good, and in mean time meditate on gathering will and composure for when it fails, it will be needed.
OP
If you isolate it down to where you know it's leaking from the RMS, do this before contemplating paying to have it changed. Change your oil to a High Mileage CONVENTIONAL 10W-30 like Pennzoil. Conventional engine oils are getting harder to find but in this case it'd be worth looking for it/ordering it. Many synthetics can actually dry out the RMS which is what happened to my daily driver BMW that developed a horrific RMS leak that left a big mess on my garage floor every day. Changing its synthetic to a High Mileage conventional completely stopped the leak in well under a week of daily driving. High Mileage engine oils have additional seal restorative products in them that can restore the RMS back to its original consistency and size.
I never ran synthetics in any of my cars except for the BMW which was originally required by its warranty and damned if it didn't eventually cause a big RMS leak. I don't run anything but conventional in any of my cars/Jeep now and I have no RMS issues.
I never ran synthetics in any of my cars except for the BMW which was originally required by its warranty and damned if it didn't eventually cause a big RMS leak. I don't run anything but conventional in any of my cars/Jeep now and I have no RMS issues.
OP
Thanks, Jerry. I already use this type of oil based on your advice in other threads. I’ve done some more looking and it appears the problem is where the oil pan connects. There is a ton of crud and caked up oil along the seam there. That may also explain why i get the burning oil smell and the drip evidence being scattered and not a typical RMS leak.
Is it a hard fix to replace the oil pan gasket? My knowledge pretty much ends at changing the radiator and a few hoses (so far) on my TJ.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
For me, the hardest part of changing the oil pan gasket was getting the exhaust off and moved out of the way. The bolts holding the down pipes were really tight and hard to get apart. I had to spray them with a mixture of 50/50 ATF and acetone. Kroil would work well too. They soaked overnight and came off easily the next morning.
joniki
TJ Enthusiast
I thought I had an RMS leak on my 2006. The valve cover gasket was changed out and this really helped. I DID NOT want to do the pan gasket so I took it to my mechanic. The flywheel was clean and the pan gasket took care of the leak.
I should add, I switched to Pennzoil 10-30 hign milage conventional before the oil pan gasket was changed. Thanks Jerry...
I am too old to lay on the concrete for very long...
I should add, I switched to Pennzoil 10-30 hign milage conventional before the oil pan gasket was changed. Thanks Jerry...
I am too old to lay on the concrete for very long...
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