I'm in the process of replacing all of the original bushings on my 2004 Rubicon. Haven't had too much trouble with stuck bolts, but I'm now working on removing the rear track bar and I can't access the lower bushing's torx head. I see many posts about it stripping out or being seized, but that is not my problem. I see that everyone suggests jacking up the frame, so I jacked up the frame from the rear until both rear tires are hanging. I also did this after disconnecting the rear sway bar links. I thought this might increase the travel of the axle, but maybe not. Anyway, after jacking up the frame, I was able to break the torx bolt loose but after a couple of turns, I am hitting the gas tank with my ratchet and/or breaker bar. It seems that even if I found a tool with better clearance, it might hit the gas tank again before the bolt can be removed. My next step is probably going to be going out to buy a T55 allen key and hope that does the trick, but I mainly want to know what the proper way to do this is. There aren't too many posts on it, so I assume it doesn't give people nearly as much trouble as it's giving me.
Rear track bar torx removal
- Thread starter kmac5130
- Start date
It’s hanging on the coil spring. Just removed the shock bolt to test that out and there’s no more clearance. But good idea and thanks.
So i guess the next step would be to disconnect the spring but i dont think anyone else has had to do that so i dont know why my jeep would be the only one
Yes that’s exactly what was happening. Just got it out finally by using a tiny ratchet with a torx bit. Hopefully anyone else who runs into this problem will read this and know to undo the frame side track bar bushing first, then there will be no tension on the axle side bushing when you jack up the frame.
That's the way I always do mine, but I usually have to put a pipe over my ratchet for leverage to break it loose without stripping the torx bolt head.
drip the suspension down, disconnect the shock. I break it loose with a breaker bar on the torx bit. I then use a racket wrench on the torx hex to remove it the rest of the way.
Hi, I am doing the same thing…..my question is this. What part number did you use for the bushing …..no one lists bushings for the rear? Only the front! Is the front track bar bushing the same size and diameter and bolt size?
thanks, Rick
thanks, Rick
I'm not sure if the front and rear bushings are the same size, but the rear track bar bushings are sold in their own kits. I know a lot of people get the set from Energy Suspension, as I did. They are polyurethane, just in case you may have a preference for a rubber set instead. I ordered the "Energy Suspension 2.7103G Rear Track Arm Bushing Set Black" from Amazon for $18.89 and have no complaints. They even come with assembly lube packets, and I think I may have used a vice or soft hammer to get them in after cleaning the bores, but they went in tight but were not too difficult. As long as they are tightened to torque specs when you are done, they will do their job. Let me know if you run into any problems.
And I'm not sure why rock auto doesn't have them under their track bar bushing section as you probably noticed. If you have a stock rear track bar, as you probably do, then the Energy Suspension bushings should work great for you.
Thanks, yeah rock auto has been my go to for parts! Are the energy suspension bushings you’re talking about listed on that site? I will go look now! Edit, looked and no joy….just front bushings…which have a smaller diameter bolt. Bummer.
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They don't seem to be on there. And whenever rockauto parts are also available on amazon, they are often cheaper, and return shipping is usually free with prime if you have it. In this case, they only seem to be on amazon, ebay, and a couple other sites.