Rear trackbar for 2.5-4.0" Lifts

limitz

limitz

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Putting in a 2.5" OME lift with Savvy adjustable upper/lowers to potentially move to a 4.0" springs down the road. Bit foggy on what needs to happen to the rear trackbar.

I've seen Metalclock has an adjustable + bracket. Currie also has an adjustable with or without straight bracket for the LJ. JKS has an adjustable bar, but OEM bracket. ARB has a $25 relocation bracket that works with the stock track bar.

What's the sweet spot in the above to work between a 2.5-4.0" lift? Was thinking the ARB relocation bracket for now to save some cash. Get an adjustable bracket if I ever decide to move to a 4.0" lift, but even then, I'm not sure on the various combinations.
 
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Unless something is changed on the LJ rear axles, JKS makes an angled relocation bracket. It is to be used specifically for a CV driveline, so you need an SYE or have a Rubicon model. I have the JKS adjustable rear TB with their angled relocation bracket due to having a tummy tuck/SYE.

If you plan to tummy tuck and stay on short arms, id go with the currie since (to my knowledge) it gives the best clearance from hitting the gas tank. Mine currently hits, so I had to add some bump, but im not too worried since I do plan on doing the Savvy Midarm, which removes the rear trackbar and instead used a triangulated 4 link

Heres the link for the adjustable bracket if you do go with JKS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZSQS/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Ah got it, angled bracket for the LJ. Also missed that relocation bracket on the JKS - that clears up some confusion - similar to the Metalcloak and the Currie in how it handles the CV driveline.

Is there ever a case where you would run an adjustable track bar w/ no relo bracket, or is that basically just stock?
 
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limitz said:
Is there ever a case where you would run an adjustable track bar w/ no relo bracket, or is that basically just stock?
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The only case I would see using an adjustable trackbar without a bracket is if you are doing a lift but leaving the transfercase skid at stock height. The purpose of a relocation bracket is to angle the trackbar forward a bit so you wont hit the gas tank with the TB during articulation. This really only happens with a tummy tuck and it is due to rotating the pinion up, which in turn angles the trackbar rearward causing it to hit during articulation
 
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I think I still need a straight relo bracket vs angled. I do have a Rubicon, but no rear CV driveshaft.

I think my options are:

1) Stock trackbar + ARB relo bracket
2) Currie trackbar + straight bracket
3) JKS trackbar w/ no bracket (since no rear CV driveshaft)

voodooridr said:
With the extra real estate under the LJ is the bracket needed?
Click to expand...

My understanding is for 2.5" lifts, it can be done with either stock + bracket, or just a JKS adjustable trackbar. I think for 4"+ the adjustable trackbar + bracket come into play.

Hope someone can correct me on that if I'm wrong.
 
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I could be wrong but I thought all LJ Rubicons have a CV/Double Cardan style output on the transfer case. If so then the angled rear track bar bracket is needed to keep your pinion angle correct.

I believe you have your lift info swapped. You should have the 1.25" Body lift and the 1" motor mount lift. Both great products cant go wrong with savvy.

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Rubicons have a front CV drive shaft, and rear fixed flange output. (Might be wrong on this)
 
limitz said:
Rubicons have a front CV drive shaft, and rear fixed flange output. (Might be wrong on this)
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Rubicon’s have a rear fixed yoke. Therefore, you don’t need a Slip Yoke Eliminator. Nothing to eliminate.

The LJ is more forgiving since the rear driveshaft is longer, but at some point you need rear CA’s to adjust the pinion to point at the TCase output yoke.
 
Tummy tuck? If not, just using the JKS track bar worked for me with 2.5” lift on my TJR. Once I did the tummy tuck (ucf extra clearance), the JKS bracket helped
 
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We're not talking about SYE's in this thread??? Question is on adj rear trackbars and relo brackets.
 
All wrangler drive lines have a "slip" joint. Yours is in the drive shaft.

Yes your correct you do not need a SYE. It is all about haw many u-joints you have.

I believe your factory drive shaft has only one U-joint on each end. If so install your lift and drive it. If you get drive line vibes it may be due to the MML. You wont know till your there. I wouldn't through parts at problems that aren't there.

Why did you install the MML? Do you plan on a tummy tuck?
 
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IPerkWVU said:
Tummy tuck? If not, just using the JKS track bar worked for me with 2.5” lift on my TJR. Once I did the tummy tuck (ucf extra clearance), the JKS bracket helped
Click to expand...
No tummy tuck. Just the 2.5" lift.

Think I'll go with the Currie adj. track bar in the stock mount location. Seems like the relo bracket only comes into play if I ever upgrade to a rear DC driveshaft when I move to a 4" lift.
 
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A relo bracket can limit the axle up-travel because it will hit the tub before anything else touches. That will require some (a lot of) extra bump stop extension. A relo bracket is usually not needed on a low lift. When you go to 4 inches, that may be a different story. There are straight relo brackets and angled ones.
 
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