I’m about to go buy some fluids for my 2000 Sahara with 150,000 miles on it. What are ya’lls suggestions on brands of fluids to get including motor oil?
Recommended fluids for TJ
- Thread starter FirstJeep
- Start date
Cue 200 posts on oil.
My preference is 10w30 conventional pennzoil in the engine.
My preference is 10w30 conventional pennzoil in the engine.
What transmission? And your Profile is empty so not only do we know nothing about your Jeep, we don't know where you live so we can make valid engine oil recommendations. Most parts of the country 10W-30 is what you want but in colder parts, 5W-30 or even 0W-30 can be required during the winter.
About the only thing for sure we can say is that your transfer case requires ATF... any kind of good quality ATF is fine, ATF+4 would be a good choice.
Brand-wise, they're pretty much all excellent quality. I personally refuse to pay higher prices for "boutique" brands like Royal Purple or Spamsoil which are in reality no better than "normal" brands like Valvoline, Mobil, Castrol, etc. are. I usually run Valvoline myself but would happily run Castrol, Mobile Walmart, etc. if Valvoline were to suddenly disappear. NAPA lubricants are made for them by Valvoline so they're very good too. And except in extremely cold climates where synthetic has a proven advantage, conventional lubricants are fine. The only area I consistently recommend a synthetic is in the transmission.
About the only thing for sure we can say is that your transfer case requires ATF... any kind of good quality ATF is fine, ATF+4 would be a good choice.
Brand-wise, they're pretty much all excellent quality. I personally refuse to pay higher prices for "boutique" brands like Royal Purple or Spamsoil which are in reality no better than "normal" brands like Valvoline, Mobil, Castrol, etc. are. I usually run Valvoline myself but would happily run Castrol, Mobile Walmart, etc. if Valvoline were to suddenly disappear. NAPA lubricants are made for them by Valvoline so they're very good too. And except in extremely cold climates where synthetic has a proven advantage, conventional lubricants are fine. The only area I consistently recommend a synthetic is in the transmission.
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Paul Land
TJ Enthusiast
WDE
TJ Enthusiast
Valvoline Conventional 10W-30 dino oil, DOT4 brake fluid, Pennzoil Synchromesh for NV3550 5-speed transmission, Valvoline Power Steering Fluid for 98-02 TJ
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
Your engine is flat tappet. Look up info on oil with zinc or oil containing high amounts of zddp. You could try some zinc addictive too.
Tons of engine oil and tons of opinions, but zddp is a consideration in a flat tappet engine.
-Edited to provide a suggestion more than an statement.
Tons of engine oil and tons of opinions, but zddp is a consideration in a flat tappet engine.
-Edited to provide a suggestion more than an statement.
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I'd go Redline MTL for the NV3550, Redline MT-90 for the AX15. Never had good results with Pennzoil or the Mopar stuff. I use RP for my rear Dana 44 but it's overpriced and no better than any other name-brand fluid. If you have a limited slip, however, make sure the oil has friction modifier include (which almost all do anyway).
I use Valvoline Maxlife 10-30 synthetic blend for oil, but that's only because I'm enrolled in their so-called 250,000 mile warranty program.
I use Valvoline Maxlife 10-30 synthetic blend for oil, but that's only because I'm enrolled in their so-called 250,000 mile warranty program.
Not really, not unless you have stiffer than stock valve springs/high-lift cam etc. There's not enough pressure on the lifters in a standard engine to require additional amounts of zddp (zinc). If it was a problem we'd all be having cam/lifter issues as only the small bunch of zddp fanatics run extra zddp. There's no one in the various Jeep forums I participate in over the past 22 years mentioning any problems with their standard valve trains using conventional motor oils... me included.
Would I run a higher level of zddp/extra zinc if I had a hotrod engine with a high lift cam etc.? Absolutely. Would I bother for a standard engine like in any of my cars and Jeep? Nope.
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
Not really, not unless you have stiffer than stock valve springs/high-lift cam etc. There's not enough pressure on the lifters in a standard engine to require additional amounts of zddp (zinc). If it was a problem we'd all be having cam/lifter issues as only the small bunch of zddp fanatics run extra zddp. There's no one in the various Jeep forums I participate in over the past 22 years mentioning any problems with their standard valve trains using conventional motor oils... me included.
Would I run a higher level of zddp/extra zinc if I had a hotrod engine with a high lift cam etc.? Absolutely. Would I bother for a standard engine like in any of my cars and Jeep? Nope.
Correct me if I wrong, but wasnt zddp addictive in engine oil for flat tappet cam engines?
Opinions are wild when it comes to oil. Just giving op something to consider for himself.
Zddp is still contained in automotive engine oils, its amount was just reduced some to avoid damaging the catalytic converters. Additional zddp is really only needed when you have a high-performance engine with stiffer aftermarket valve springs like are used with aftermarket high-lift cams.
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
Many would side with you and many wouldn’t. Like I said, it’s something I thought worth mentioning to the op to consider.
There are a lot who don't really understand the reasons when additional zddp is needed or not. There are a lot of bandwagons many jump on without ever really understanding the bandwagon's issue completely.
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
I edited my post to be a suggestion.
I will let you be absolutely right about the zddp not needed in flat tappet Jeep engine. I room full of chemical/material/mechanic engineers could argue the fact. But you’ll set them straight.
You keep
Oh wait, I already said all that didn't I.
You keep getting confused on what I'm saying. I never said zddp is not needed. Never did, not once. What I did say is that modern engine oils still contain zddp and I simply said adding additional zddp is not needed for a stock engine. In hot rod engine with an aftermarket high lift cam and stiffer aftermarket valve springs? Absolutely more zddp is recommended.
Oh wait, I already said all that didn't I.
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
Tell that to a diesel owner.
“Just use regular 15w40, it has less zddp, but it’s still there”
Wait, I thought this was a Wrangler TJ forum. Since when did we start getting diesel engines in our Wrangler TJs? Or could this be a hotrod forum where additional zddp is also a good idea? Nope, we're not that either.
Maybe we should confine our comments and recommendations to what's appropriate for Wrangler TJ engines so as to not confuse our fellow forum members.
MallCrawlOnTons
TJ Enthusiast
Your right. It was an example. To the op! Check it out, read up and look at labels. They will help you understand a little better.
To the op again. Check your zddp levels. It is important for flat tappet cam engines. Stock or modified.
Disregard the diesel mention in the article. This is a tj forum.
“There are two ways a person can ensure they are using oil that has sufficient amounts of antiwear additives, commonly listed as 1,200 ppm ZDDP for flat-tappet engines with stock valve springs and 1,400 ppm for engines with higher spring rates. The first is to buy oil that is similar to older formulations. This used to be as simple as buying a diesel-rated oil, such as Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400. Diesel engines also have highly stressed wear points, but diesel oils were reformulated to CJ-4 in 2007. Although the levels of ZDDP were reduced, most are still significantly higher than common car motor oils.”
From this article.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/corp-0808-worn-down-engines/
Back on topic... FirstJeep, please let us know the details on your Jeep so we can give some valid and appropriate recommendations.
Don’t know jack about zddp and am certainly not a TJ expert, but I do know when I changed to Mobile 1, my rear main leaked. Changed back to conventional Castol 5W30 and no more leaks.
